imacoolkid

man its easy. its just a polished overflow tank you can get from summit and just used a preexisting tapped hole on the radiator to mount it. thats it! simple as cake!

BrandonRyan

jdmfoose

iTrader: (3)

Originally Posted by Davidss View Post
If you are willing to pull the rack out of the car there is another option for removing power steering. Have a power steering shop rebuild the rack (or do it yourself) and remove the o-ring/seal highlighted in the picture below. Then use grease instead of PS fluid and cap of the lines and you're done!


Any input? anybody running this setup? Pros, cons...

jack sparrow

ok.. so if im reading things right.. the s2k brake master will give you a better pedal feel when removing booster in an eg?

rick_rabies

^sooo..throw out the booster and use the s2k MC and it will work fine? ...

bigdawgky

where did u read this?

im doing this in my DB now, ALL IN fabrication plate, just working out a few blank areas before I buy everything.

I think im going to go with the Wilwood 5/8 MC to push the fluid with less pedal travel (better feel to me personally).

Also I THINK the 5/8 would help with the pedal stifness from the booster not being there as it takes less pedal travel to push the fluid with a 5/8 over my 1"...

Or should I go with a 1" and push more fluid with more pedal travel?

Just trying find the MC set up that kinda eases on the stifness.

Andre

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

You're kinda off here...

The larger your master cylinder bore the more fluid you are going to move for a given amount of pedal travel.

Volume of a cylinder = L*pi*(d/2)^2

If you move a 1" mc 1" (to keep things real simple), 1"*pi*(1/2")^2= ~.785in^3 of fluid volume moved.


To move the same amount of fluid with a 5/8" mc, you would have to move it (rearranging)

V/(pi*(d/2)^2) = L => ((.785")^3)/(pi*(5/16")^2)= 2.55" (< 2.5x the throw!)

A 5/8" is absolutely tiny, smaller than a dx/cx 13/16" by 3/16"! If I'm not mistaken, isn't 5/8" also the bore of the clutch master cylinder?

.saint

looks fresh brandon

rogueeg6

iTrader: (1)

go with 3/4 thats what kenskusctom reecomends and thats what i have seen used on every wilwood booster delete.

MLRtime

Guy on NASIOC did this:



link to build

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...340064&page=41



Kinda neat.

jasoncanseeoh

^that is hella nice. takes ***** to tear apart an sti like that.

crazyjetsfan22

iTrader: (5)

pretty cool idea i think and very different

i agree.

bigdawgky

Thanks bruh... ALL INs link on their buy plate page points to the 5/8... I was questioning that cuz I know its small.

Will get the 3/4 thats about right cuz I dont want a 1".

Assuming they all bolt up the same way right? I guess dont see why not. Got the ALL IN plate, shud be ok i hope.

Andre

adrian1281

The car had an engine fire, it's not like it was brand new or anything...

rick_rabies

^^ oh my

B18c1turboedEK

iTrader: (1)

Probly was an electrical fire....hahahahaha

fabmaster

I'm new to the tucking scene. Learning alot from reading this thread. Still blasting the bay in prep for shaving and also building custom mounts for functional wiper motor tuck and brake booster tuck.

Where I'm at now....







Just so everyone knows, I'll have a center channel speaker right above the booster, so filling/checking it will only take 4 screws.

jasoncanseeoh

Wonder how that brake booster tuck willl work out.

JDM.DEEBO

iTrader: (2)

damn that looks crazy!

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

There is not one car that is going to need -16 not only is it nearly double in price than -12 in all the fittings and hose ends , but -12 will be more than big enough for anything anybody is doing in here.

732xghost

wow that brake booster tuck looks intense!

rogueeg6

iTrader: (1)

test it with fluid and **** then sell the hell outa them haha $$$$$

fabmaster

I'm not new to designing and fabricating, just to tucking. Is there something that stands out to you that makes you question if it will work?

Thanks. It was fun designing the linkage.

Just picked up brake line today and borrowed a flaring tool so I will be testing it soon. Only problem with producing them is you have to get rid of heat, some welding has to be done in the car, and some metal has to be removed as well.

Snoop G

ye but surely a kit can be put together where the owners do the welding part... already there is a kit for EF crx owners to change to a hydro clutch.

None the less what ur doing with the brake booster is awesome

jasoncanseeoh

I'm not questioning it, like everyone else says, that **** is intense.
What will you be doing with the original hole for the booster?