BLKFLSH

So I did the timing belt this weekend. I don't know what they use at the factory to install the crank bolt, but it was on there TIGHT!!!!
I used a small impact gun at first (supposedly 550 lbft), with absolutely no luck. I tried the large 1" breaker bar, in conjuction with the pulley holding tool. All I manged to do is destroy the pulley holding tool. So it came down to the MONSTER two handed impact from work (which I should have brought home in the first place). Well that bolt didn't have a chance against BIG BERTHA. Pictures below.

MSchu

nice... good job!!!

BLKFLSH

Funny thing is, I was under the impression the front and rear camshaft sprockets were supposed to line up perfectly with the marks, when no 1 cylinder is at TDC. When I lined up the front sprocket, the rear sprocket was slightly off (say half a tooth) toward the rear. The engine was running fine, with the old belt, so I installed the new belt with the same situation (rear cam a little off to the rear). This had me worried a little when I first started the engine after the timing belt change, but the engine still runs great. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idler pulley, and adjuster. All OEM parts. Also changed the coolant, since I had to drain it for the water pump anyway. I'm glad that job is done for another 7 years at least. It took me an entire day, with 3-4 hours just on the crankshaft pulley bolt, but it was my first time and I made sure everythng was done right and torqued to specs. I could probably do the job in less than half the time now that I know what I'm doing and wouldn't have to go word for word by the service manual. It was good experience for me, and I saved quite a few bucks, so I'm happy about that. Happy Hollidays

C4wrx

Yeah, the v6 Crank pulleys are always tight. On accords you can usually use rock the crank bolt back and forth with a 1/2" gun to loosen it. But make sure you recheck your timing marks after. But for odysseys or mdxs I need break out my 3/4" gun.