shaking at idle....still!
#1
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shaking at idle....still!
My car is shaking at idle. It seems to be mostly in steering wheel or possibly originating there and is worse in gear. It goes away around 1,200rpms in gear and at slightly lower rpms out of gear. Its a 92LX with 90K... Pretty much the only things I have NOT changed that I think even COULD be possible culprits are:
~muffler, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, suspension bushings, map sensor, ignition coil, distributor (itself...have changed igniter, cap, rotor etc) and stering rack bushings
~my dist. seems to be ok visually, as when I changed my igniter, there was no residue from a possible worn bushing. There is also no obvious excessive noice from that area
~I have no CEL
~the map sensor seemed to be within spec (I had the reading cut-off sparadically, but I think that was due to a shabby contact with multimeter probes at the connector)
~I read that it could be the muffler...that and the exhaust manifold are the only parts of the exhaust system I have not replaced, and believe the muffler was changed within a few yrs or so by previous owner
...does everyone agree that at a glance these things check out???
Also, I did a check of my ignition coil yest and terminals A and C resistance was around 0.4...but I did the test outside, at about 40 degrees. The resistance between terminal A and the secondary terminal was in spec. But here's the thing...I got NO reading at ALL between terminals B and D!!! I'm not sure which terminals control what, but it was suprising because aside from the shaking everything else finally seems to be working well.
~Does the resistance between terminals A and C seem reasonable at low temps???
~Does anyone know what terminals B and D in coil control???
~What are the chances I need a new dist. with no apparent issues (almost sure it's original)
~What are everyone's thoughts on changing steering column bushings???...as it seems like a pain!
Thanx to everyone in advance and sorry for possibly overdoing it in the info dept...I tend to be overly-thorough
~muffler, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, suspension bushings, map sensor, ignition coil, distributor (itself...have changed igniter, cap, rotor etc) and stering rack bushings
~my dist. seems to be ok visually, as when I changed my igniter, there was no residue from a possible worn bushing. There is also no obvious excessive noice from that area
~I have no CEL
~the map sensor seemed to be within spec (I had the reading cut-off sparadically, but I think that was due to a shabby contact with multimeter probes at the connector)
~I read that it could be the muffler...that and the exhaust manifold are the only parts of the exhaust system I have not replaced, and believe the muffler was changed within a few yrs or so by previous owner
...does everyone agree that at a glance these things check out???
Also, I did a check of my ignition coil yest and terminals A and C resistance was around 0.4...but I did the test outside, at about 40 degrees. The resistance between terminal A and the secondary terminal was in spec. But here's the thing...I got NO reading at ALL between terminals B and D!!! I'm not sure which terminals control what, but it was suprising because aside from the shaking everything else finally seems to be working well.
~Does the resistance between terminals A and C seem reasonable at low temps???
~Does anyone know what terminals B and D in coil control???
~What are the chances I need a new dist. with no apparent issues (almost sure it's original)
~What are everyone's thoughts on changing steering column bushings???...as it seems like a pain!
Thanx to everyone in advance and sorry for possibly overdoing it in the info dept...I tend to be overly-thorough
#3
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Re: shaking at idle....still!
[QUOTE=phootbag;44949842]Cool. It's probably the rear engine mount.QUOTE]
....nice analogy...lol.
I replaced all the mounts...first with aftermarket ones, then went back and threw Honda mounts on the front wishbone and side engine. The tranny is still aftermarket tho. I also replaced the rear mount twice...first with the stock solenoid mount...then went back and put one without the solenoid in, deleted the control valve, and plugged the manifold...
...and a slight, but interesting update...
I went out and tested my ignition coil again this morning. I got the same specs as yesterday: A to C at 0.4.... A to secondary around 17.5k...continuity was good too...but from terminals B to C I still got nothing!
Here's the kicker: when I reconnected the ignition coil and tried to start the car, it cranked good once, then went weak on me! I made sure everything was buttoned in good and tried again...same...very weak crank. I ended up having to give it gas while cranking to get it started. Then when it did...it ran like poop for a minute or two. Throttle response wasn't right...rpms were all over...and it sounded a little worse than normal at cold start up....but get this...
When it warmed up it seemed to run a little different, and for the better! The steering wheel shake was still there, but seems to have improved. Also, the auto trans seemed to shift smoother and the shift points seemed to be more where they're supposed to!?!? Not sure how to take that, but my local parts stores don't have my ignition coil in stock...so I figured I might as well order one online and get the best one I could find for my buck...possibly Honda...
What's ur thoughts on that whole scenario???
....nice analogy...lol.
I replaced all the mounts...first with aftermarket ones, then went back and threw Honda mounts on the front wishbone and side engine. The tranny is still aftermarket tho. I also replaced the rear mount twice...first with the stock solenoid mount...then went back and put one without the solenoid in, deleted the control valve, and plugged the manifold...
...and a slight, but interesting update...
I went out and tested my ignition coil again this morning. I got the same specs as yesterday: A to C at 0.4.... A to secondary around 17.5k...continuity was good too...but from terminals B to C I still got nothing!
Here's the kicker: when I reconnected the ignition coil and tried to start the car, it cranked good once, then went weak on me! I made sure everything was buttoned in good and tried again...same...very weak crank. I ended up having to give it gas while cranking to get it started. Then when it did...it ran like poop for a minute or two. Throttle response wasn't right...rpms were all over...and it sounded a little worse than normal at cold start up....but get this...
When it warmed up it seemed to run a little different, and for the better! The steering wheel shake was still there, but seems to have improved. Also, the auto trans seemed to shift smoother and the shift points seemed to be more where they're supposed to!?!? Not sure how to take that, but my local parts stores don't have my ignition coil in stock...so I figured I might as well order one online and get the best one I could find for my buck...possibly Honda...
What's ur thoughts on that whole scenario???
#4
Re: shaking at idle....still!
Have someone else start the car while you watch the engine with the hood open. If it rocks back and forth more then twice or has a travel of more then 3 inches give or take a little then it is probably the mounts. I dont know what brand you have for the aftermarket ones but that would be my next move. Then I would follow the stearing from wheels to rack to shaft to wheel.
Hope this helps
Alex R.
Hope this helps
Alex R.
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