Yet another P1166 code, one I just can't figure out. I've had it for maybe 5 months, sadly purchased from someone shady. I've read quite a few threads, will back probe the A/F sensor tomorrow and recheck my current sensor as well for fresh results. From here I'll begin with the details I do have, thanks in advance....
2000 Honda Accord EX ULEV California emissions 4 cylinder 2.3L VTEC.
Initially had a P1147 cel. Was able to correct that with a little basement machining, drilling out screws and retapping a valve gizmo on the charcoal Canister, Evap system.
A few days later got the P1167 HO2S S1 Heater Failure. (Only appears engine off)
P1166 HO2S (B2) (S1) Heater Failure
replaced twice with Denso 234-9025.
Also replaced O2 sensor, Denso 234-4621. MAP Sensor, Cap, Rotor and wires. Fuses also good.
Did have a lower Heater hose burst so 1 Hot run. Fortunately my wife immediately pulled over but did expel all coolant.
I do have a Bluetooth OBD2 reader with Car Scanner app. It gives boat load of info. Most I don't yet understand, lol. Oddly after changing the MAP the code sorta changed. 🤨
Now it's P11677c Insufficient engine temperature. I'd be guessing the ECT sensor?
Will attempt to add some pics.





I can easily get more, or specific pics of data. Sorry for any duplicates.

 

Here is a pdf link on troubleshooting related to P1166:

Troubleshooting P1166.

This is for P1167:

Troubleshooting P1167.

 

Also, this is from a August 2005 Honda Service News excerpt:

 

Awesome, thanks Tech8. Will read up and keep ya's posted.

 

I was able to crawl throughout the engine yesterday. I need to get electrical tape to check the ground wire to the alternator as it's still well wrapped. I did find however 1 questionable and 1 not good at all items. The ETC connector is shot and I had repaired a P1147, if I remember correctly, valve gizmo on the charcoal Canister. So I went over it again to check myself and found an open vacuum hose. I wasn't able to find a hose that might go to it though. Going to try calling a few junk yards for the ETC connector. Will have to do some research on the vacuum line.

Cover removed, hangs onto the Canister.

Will also replace ETC.
the vacuum line with the white union.

 

I don't believe those opening at the EVAP canister filter are connected to a vacuum hose. The black inlet is for fresh air to come and the white outlet to let air out.

 

Awesome, thanks Tech8. As long as the female connector is still good I think I can fix it with some heat shrink tubes. I'll try testing the ETC and replace if needed. I'll keep ya's posted. While working on that I'll try again to fix the oil leak at the distributor. Hopefully not the inner O ring.