White Honda

I have a 1996 Honda Accord LX F22B2 engine. Recently whenever you accelerate while in gear, it feels like it cuts power. It sputters like it's misfiring and has no power. The ignition coil was making a loud tick from the inside, after testing it with this info (https://www.justanswer.com/honda/5c2...ing-check.html) the old coil had 0.1 ohms in A to C, 14k ohms in A to secondary terminal and nothing in B to D. The new one has 0.6 ohms in A to C, 18k omhs in A to secondary and 2.1k ohms in B to D. There's 12v going to the ignition coil and ICM. There's 2k ohms between the blue and light green terminal of the ICM.

The distributor cap and wires have maybe a little over a year, but I doubt they're the problem since it revs to 4k in park or neutral just fine, only when accelerating in gear be it forward or reverse does the problem appear when it reaches 2k rpm.

Any idea what this might be?

Steve Massey

Check egr passages.

White Honda

Cleaned the ports, no improvements. It's giving misfire codes on 1, 3 and 4 and P1498.

condor22

Have you tried youtube?

See some videos on P1498 here:
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ry=honda+P1498

See also the comments in the videos
for solutions others have done

Just a thought. I've no experience with your symptoms/problems
But Youtube has helped me a lot.

White Honda

Is there any info on the EGR lift sensor, control valve and control solenoid? Like how to test it Just wanna check if they're working but can find any info for this car. Lift sensor has three wires, solenoid has two with continuity and 17 ohms.

White Honda

Ok, I got the car to a state where it idles smooth-ish and no longer cuts power when accelerating in gear.

1. Ignition coil: Using this https://www.justanswer.com/honda/5c2...ing-check.html I noticed that the B and D terminals had no resistance or continuity between them. The new one did have resistance so something internal must have broken. Replacing the coil alone didn't fix the problem tho.

2. EGR: The port of the valve was pretty dirty but the control solenoid also had a clicking sound and seemed to fully open the EGR valve at idle with the control valve seeming to do nothing at all. After the cleaning the ports, I opted to just remove both the control solenoid and control valve and just let the EGR closed at all times. For now, it doesn't seem to throw any codes or care that those parts are gone, we'll see after a more driving.

3. Throttle Position Sensor: OBD2 scanner was giving me 9% open on the TPS, I thought that was the problem and decided to bring it to 0%. That did not work since now it apparently was too low and gave me a TPS low input code. After moving it while the engine was idling, it seemed to settle well at 5.1% which is where it's currently set, giving 0.23V at the red wire with 5V on the yellow and black.

Now it idles well, no longer misfires or cuts power when accelerating in gear. It does seems to be idling low at 648 rpm, but I guess that's either more TPS fine tuning or FIACV adjustment.