JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Interesting seems like a fairly easy repair as the clutch packs just wear out.

jmjohnson128

i know this is old sorry, but the fill plug is a 17mm on top of the trans under the intake just above the differential.... f*****g superman put it in there get a breaker bar

cvcek

i am thinking of rebuilding my odyssey basicly the same trans. did you have a whining noise at cold startup? also did you have to clean out any clutch material from the ports? and did you hve to replace torque converter?

crx-b18c

nice info

jamlegend

Where is a good place to get a rebuild kit for a 1999 acura TL? I am getting ready to rebuild mine.

Thanks,

WifesVTEC

I just picked up a 98 EX V6 sedan. It drove and shifted smoothly but has 182k, what should I have checked and how much will it cost?

Losone

Very Nice set of pictures. I do have a question that perhaps you can answer. My wife's 99 Accord V6 EX shifts too soon into 4th about 900 RPM or 27-28 MPH causing severe engine shudder. Pull it into 3rd and all is OK. 89K miles, no check engine light, scanned no codes, tranny serviced at 53K. Fluid level is OK with no leaks and smells good. Normal shifts with no slippage or hesitation above 40MPH. It must be hot for this to occur after the tranny temp sensor closes.

Suspect either the shift solonoid or remotely the TCM

Any ideas and thanks for the help as my wife is on my 6 about it.

L "Lee" Parmeter
ASE master mechanic 1968.
Retired Biloxi, Ms

graham_h

Couldn't crack mine when doing the fluid today.
Filled it using a hand pump through the dip stock hole.
Took a while but went fine.
Shame the trans needs a good service though.... its done over 300,000k's

jackc396

Toledo Driveline has a good kit for rebuilding the B7XA. so does Precision International. they are supposedly more complete kits, with things like the 3 stake nuts that hold the 3 gears under the end cover. i'm rebuilding mine now. two of the 3 stake nuts come off with a reverse/backwards thread. like righty-loosey. i'm compartmentalizing subsets of everything like, the park and park pawl stuff and gears sets and associated bearings all together in separate ziplock bags. gears and bearings kept together so they go back together the same way they came apart after cleaning them and the case parts. differential bearings and races look suspicious and will be replaced. they are another common failure. got a Honda torque converter on ebay for 170.00 shipped. need a bearing separator to get the differential bearings off. my kit came from cobratransmission.com. OEM clutches/frictions are soaking in RedLine D4 synthetic as i write this. they are prolly ready to install. i'm using Redline D4 exclusively, for the build and the 30.000 mile case drain and refill, which is less than 2 qts. i installed a nice tranny cooler, and a 3/8" MagnaFine Trans filter just b4 the return pipe that goes to the rear top of the transmission. MagnaFine filters down to the 3-15 micron level which is good for the initial trans break in period. NTZ supposedly filters down to the two microns... ( www.ntzfilter.com ) i'll prolly use the NTZ's after the initial 150 mile break in. the valve bodies are a piece of work. must be immaculate! i'll be updating later. -jack 5-18-11

VeeSykkz

My 98 is up to 195k, still smokes the tires but shifts a bit rough fro time to time. I want to do the 6spd swap after I fix the front suspension. My front right tire is 1.5" behind center as measured axle to axle. Can you point the way to the swap thread pls?

MAD_MIKE

Sounds like the front beam may have shifted. Curb the car hard anywhere?
As for 6spd swap, the only one I was aware of was the complete install of the Acura drive train. Maybe this would be a better thread to post in. https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...1229014&page=3

VeeSykkz

dont know. it was like that when I bought it about 8 months ago. I work at Napa so I get stuff crazy cheap. Taxes is paying for about $400 for $900 worth of parts.
Rack and pinion, ball joints and arm bushings and if need be then whole control arms, sway bars, 4 struts, and shims for the strut rods. I already did the strut rod bushings and didnt center it.

Thanks for the link.

Netdoctor1

Final torque on that Fill Bolt is 4.5 +/- 0.5 Kgf-m, which really isn't that high. You just have a seizing action under the flange of the steel bolt against the aluminum washer. It does suck; I agree. The same is true of the drain bolt.
My advice is this: assemble your socket with whatever extensions you need to get down to the bolt, but before you try to break it loose...use a hammer to give a good whack on top of the stack to "shock" it loose. Works much better after that.

Netdoctor1

I know it's old, but someone else may find it useful.
Torque on all 3 shafts is 17 +/- 1.0 Kgf-m. (123 +/- 7 lbf*ft)
Case bolt torque is 4.5 +/- 0.5 Kgf-m. (32.55 +/- 3.62 lbf*ft) if my conversions are correct.