nvm got it

 

great write up. will be using this within the week.

thanks

 

Two quick questions.

1) is it 1234 from right to left while looking at the car from the front, or from inside the car. I assume from the front of the car looking down but I want to be sure since I'm attempting this and will be finishing in the morning.

2) when you do the timing belt and raise a jack under the oil pan with a wood block and take off the mount......later on when you're putting the mount back on, what happens if you raise it too much, is it ok to lower the jack all the way and come back up? Will this 'cause a big problem or will the other mounts hold the car good enough as long as it's not being driven so that you can readjust the jack?


Oh, one more thing, I'm only doing the lower tube seals and valve adjustment right now, kinda just wondering about the jack in the event I need to go into the timing belt, but I had the timing belts and major seals and water pump done last July and the other night when doing an oil change I noticed I had an oil leak. When I got underneath I noticed oil and coolant slowly leaking through the bottom of the timing cover. I'm hoping that the coolant leak is a hose or some sort but I don't think there's a hose in that area? I'm gonna take it back in the next few days to have 'em check it out. I bought the belts and water pump and gasket somewhere else and don't have a receipt but he remembers me and said he'd take a look at it, but I haven't been able to go back in the last few days. He sold me on a seals kit at the time so I'm hoping the oil is a result of those seals I guess, but maybe he just didn't torque it all down right? Any ideas on that would be nice too.

thanks in advance

 

1. looking at it from the front

 

Looking at a couple howto vids I see people checking the valve lash on the lobe as well as for someone checking on top of the valve springs just below the adjusting nut? Does it matter which one?

 

The SOHC F series engines are measured between the adjuster screw and valve stem. DOHC engines are measured between the lobe and rocker arm. Does it matter?????? One would think that it should work ether way. I stick to doing it the way the shop manual refers to though.

 

Do you have to remove the timing cover to see that mark on the wheel? Are there markings on the other side of the wheel when the valve cover is removed?

Thanks.

 

I found this useful video, though it's on a Civic, the firing order is the same and it seems easier since the timing cover does not come off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqMYM...eature=related

What do you guys think?

 

Nice, this one actually works.

 

What the heck? I adjusted my valves according to the right instructions and now they tick louder than before the adjustments. This louder ticking occurs when the engine just started and still cold. I did not let it warms up as I did not want any damage to it.
Could some one tell why me why it would tick louder than before the adjustments?
I torque and recheck clearance at least 3X and all within specs.

Before the adjustments, I checked the clearance with the feeler gauge and all of the exhaust valves were too tight to fit the .012 in and the intake seems like they were all within specs.

Please help me figure this out.

Thanks.

 

Ticking is from lash. If your valves were tight before the procedure they will likely get louder after loosening them to spec. Of couse you may have made a mistake and caused excessive lash. If they are EXTREMELY loud, this COULD be the case.

 

Hello,
I am a little confuse here. What is the difference b/w valve and lash? What exactly is lash?

Thanks.

 

Lash is clearance, slop, play etc.

 

Lash = the cold clearance between the valve tip and the rocker arm (adjusting screw) It is to be adjusted according to the manufacturers specifications.

Valve = the actual item that you are adjusting the lash for.

 

Thanks for the info guys.
I just did the valve adjustments and now the car tick louder than before the service. However, this is when it's cold. I turned the engine off after 10 seconds b/c of the ticking noise. I was afraid it might damage the engine. Before the valve adjustments, the exhaust valves were tighter than specs. I could not even put the feeler gauge in. Could this ticking be normal when the engine is cold and the ticking was not there before b/c the valves were too tight?

Thanks.

 

If you remove the spark plugs, you dont need to turn the engine over from the crank. You can just put a wrench on the power steering and turn it counter clockwise.

Also, you dont need to remove the timing belt cover, just look at your cams when turning the power steering, and stop as soon as the cam is resting on the base circle (meaning none of the cam lobe is pushing up on the rocker arm. And adjust those valves.

 

When you say counter clockwise you mean toward the front of the car right?

Thanks.

 

Hello Masterkill445,
When you adjust the valves at TDC, do you check to see if the cam lobes are 180 degree away from the rocker arms on the intake and exhaust? I noticed that when on TDC for the cylinder, the intakes and the exhausts not always on the base circle of the cam. According the Eric the car guy, he adjust each set of valves when the rocker arms are on the base circle of the cam for accuracy.
What do you think?

Thanks.

 

Depends on how much lash you have, and how badly it's messing with your valve lift.

 

nice write up dude...but taking the timing belt cover is not necessary as u can rotate power steering or alternator bolt and look down the spark plug tube and chk to see if the piston is TDC. nice job tho!

 

i also viewed that eric carguy vid...the lobe is important to watch out for however it wuznt mentioned in masterkii write up

 

there has to be slight drag between the feeler and rocker.....if its too tight ur causing damage to ur engine get it fixd asap!

 

I think the exhaust valves were too tight b/c the base circle was not the rocker arms, thus this cause the feeler gauge to not fit in. However, if I set all of the exhaust valves with the base circle touching the rocker arms, then I got a slight drag on the valves.

Thanks.

 

Awsome! Im doing a 1995 Honda Accord EX VTEC tomorrow! thanks for all your had work man! your a life saver

 

there r two ways to do this, masters way and the other......the other is that u turn the engine over rotating the power steering CCW and putting the rocker arm on the base circle of the cam lobe, this also doesnt require u to remove the belt covers. nice write up master!!