joe_accord23

also another quick question master,...how do i know its .10 n .12? i noticed the sticker under the hood says .26 n .30...im sorry if this is a lame question, i just want to understand it

GhostAccord

the difference would be the measurements under your hood are metric units (millimeters) and the other numbers that people are posting are standard units (inches).

Those measurements should actually be written .010" & .012" However, even then those numbers are off a wee bit. They should be
IN = .009" - .011" (.24mm - .28mm)
Ex = .011" - .013" (.28mm - .32mm)

parsapour

Dear Ghost Accord,
Hi, hope you are doing well, I have an 91 EXI accord F20ZI, would you pls. telling me the Intake & Exhaust valves' feler gauges data? also if there should any measures be taken other than routine described in the adjustment procedure followed in the F22 valve adjustment Write up.
Thanks,

nus_dogg

The given spec should be 0.010" on the intake side while it's 0.012" on the exhaust side according to All Data for the F22s. I don't know if the spec would be the same for the F20ZI as thats not a common engine here in the US. I hope Ghost can give you some answers.

parsapour

Thanks for your clarified comment, will look forward hearing also from Ghost Accord , seems he is busy these days,
Regards,

elliascool

on the sticker under the hood it says valve lash IN 0.26 ± 0.02mm EX 0.30 ± 0.02mm why are you telling us to use 10 mm feeler gauge??

on my feeler gauge set from what i think is 0.02 it says .002 and under it .051 and under that is mm and its really thin one of the last gauges in the set almos tthinest ... and the other is twoards the thicker at the end says .020 and under it .508 and under that mm so im confused as hell ....which feeler gauge is the sticker asking for on my f22b2 non vtec and do i have the right one in my set?

also what is even more confusing in the book(chiltons) it says on one page:
valve lash adjustment specifications:
intake: 0.26mm (0.010 in.)±0.02mm (0.0008in.)
exhaust: 0.30mm (0.012in.)±0.02mm (0.0008in.)
and on the next page engine tune up specifications:
In:0.009-0.011
Ex:0.011-0.013

idk why it has different specifications or which is the correct/better ones ... but im confused on how to read it or look for the right ones on my feeler gauge set...

NorthHondaGuy

Awesome Write-up. I've had a ticking sound for quite a while now and its gotten quote loud. Could this be the fix?

bgioan

NorthHondaGuy it is most likely your valves. Could you describe the sound and also does it get louder as you go higher in RPM? I've read this thread but I would just like to clarify before actual commencing work on my car as this is on an F22Ax would the same instructions apply on my F22B2?

gogydm

Yes, the procedure is exactly the same, except the clearances might be different. Here is a video of how valves that need to be adjusted sound like: http://youtu.be/elwRfaNY-bE.

RichardWLandis

thx for the write up. i am about to tackle replacing my timing belts, water pump and timing belt tensioner bearings. looks like i will be adjusting the valves as well on my 1994 accord f22b1 vtec

El Diablo

I would like to thank the OP for putting this together. I did it last night. My car has never had a valve adjustment in 359,000 miles.

nus_dogg

IMO, that sounded pretty good. Not as noisy as I thought. Shouldn't need one IMO, or maybe I got so use to hearing my loud high lift cams making the tappet noise.

tdi4fun

IMO: I wouldn't adjust any valves that were in-spec. Just run through and check them.
If you slide the feeler gauge through, and it's snug, but it fits, then probably leave it alone.

Take the spark plugs out, it's easier to rotate the engine. You need to be pretty close to TDC for that cylinder, so if you rotate using the power-steering pump, and the compression zings the cam wheel past TDC, you can end up 10-15 degrees off. I would use the crank pulley.

You probably want to put the end of your finger on the other side of the rocker, don't press hard, but just make sure the adjuster-side is UP, and the rocker-side is DOWN. After the adjustment is done, make sure that the rocker still rocks (that there's still a gap).

The most common error with this, is pushing down hard with the screwdriver, as if you're driving-in a wood-screw. The purpose of the screw is to rotate. If you push down, you're changing your clearance, and the play will end up on the rocker-side, you'll end up too tight, and then you over-loosen to compensate. Then you button it all up and wonder why everything's so loud.

Also - sometimes, cheapo auto parts store adjuster screws will dish-out on the end of the valve stem, if you take the screw out of the valve arm, you can see how deformed the end of the adjuster screws can get, over time. Buying new adjuster screws can be a good thing, but don't buy cheap ones. Go OEM.

R3dRabbit

take it apart. something's obviously catching.

GhostAccord

That post is from 2009..... I'm pretty sure he has figured it out since then.

Beside that, there is no need to take it apart anyway. All you have to do is remove the spark plugs and voila, no more resistance!

w002mia

I need to know valve clearance for my car.

It's 2003 v4 Accord 2.4L, DOHC engine.

Please help

hondamark35

try again.

-this subforum is '98-'02. you're engine is substatially different, especially the valve train. try posting here.

-you have an I4. V4s are rare (outside of sport bikes, but even there..) and in my opinion pretty dumb . maybe this will help

w002mia

Well... thanks but you didn't give me a link to the answer lol

hondamark35

spoon feeding is for babies.

brendon.richey

Thank you for this, just got done working on my valve adjustments. This would have made the process easier.

rnfrazier

I just did my car. It was extremely loud before I did it. Must have missed getting one exact somewhere because it has a slight noise still but nothing like it was. Will do it again when I do the timing belt. Thanks for the post

Matt_HondaCB7

Wow very educational. Not sure I would do it myself but if I have to I'll refer to this. So far all is quiet/running nice.
Nice work, hope to find more info like this on here.

Big1000

Wanted to say thanks for breaking this process down.

To the newbies:
I did this for myself for the 1st time on a 1990 Honda accord. To get the feeling of using a feeler gauge you MUST make sure that the next size up feeler won't fit. The drag you feel when pulling out the correct size (ie .010 or .012) should be similar to pullin it across a medium strength magnet. I repeat make sure the next size up is a **** to fit in or that you can't at all. The intake valves are very tricky if you only have flat gauges. I recommend a bent .010 feeler gauge for the intake valves.

I had to do this twice as the first time around I had them way too loose. It felt like it was snug but when I took everything apart for the second time I could fit at least one size up from what the actual spec was.

I got them really close this time and just get the usual hum from the valves. More like a clicking instead if a ticking if you will. Come on you guys know what I'm sayin.

Thanks again for the post

UtzChips

You may not have received immediate comment, however, I just joined the site & will be using your in-depth report when I adjust mine.
Thanks.

NZXTInerTia

Good job, you replied to a post from 2009.