F22b1 vtec problems
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F22b1 vtec problems
Ok i have a f22b1 with a vtec head im haveing a slight bog down when vtec post to kick in i cant feel when it kicks in like i use to. im not sure what the problem is but a friend of mine said "your vtec is not coming on at all". im here to find out what i need to do to fix it. replace the head? replace the computer, proformence chip? not sure sorry for grammer misspells?
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Re: F22b1 vtec problems
well if your car is completely stock, you can rule out a performance chip, I wouldn't expect it to be the computer, butmake sure the wires haven't shorted anywhere? i'm stabbing in the dark so i might not be much help.
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Re: F22b1 vtec problems
The thing about the f22b1 vtec is you don't really feel it "kicking in" when its working properly.
The vtec engagement in our accords is so low, and the effect limited due to only acting on the intake valves, that power progression is more of a subtle transition following the engines natural build in power as rpm increases.
I will say however, you will certainly notice if vtec IS NOT working because the car will have almost no power above 3000 rpms.
There are really two general reasons vtec systems don't work in hondas, electrical or ECU related, and mechanical.
Testing the electrical systems is easier so start there.
Find the 12v voltage supply running from your ECU to the vtec solenoid.
On an obd1 car it is pin a4, on obd2 it is a8.
Hook a multimeter lead to the wire leaving the appropriate pin location and ground the other lead.
Accelerate the car past 2400 rpms and see if the meter reads 12 volts.
If it doesn't, and your obd1, check your pressure switch wiring, vtec won't engage below 50 psi so you could have an oil pressure problem as well.
If your obd2 don't worry about that because your ecu doesn't use a pressure switch.
If you are getting 12 volts to the solenoid, a mechanical issue is occurring preventing engagement.
Vtec relies on oil pressure to act as a hydraulic fluid engaging timing and synchronizing pistons which in turn shifts between high and low cam operation.
Because of this, a lack of oil pressure is usually to blame for mechanical system failures.
Check the vtec solenoid gasket, it has a screen at the inlet port, make sure it is clean and dirt free.
It is also a good idea to check the gasket between the solenoid and the valve body itself as it can fail over time letting oil pressure bleed off.
If all else fails you can also remove the valve cover and pressurize the vtec oil galleys with air by removing the service port plug to manually check for vtec engagement.
If you're unclear about any of this just ask, I'm tired and pretty sure some of this was hard to understand.
The vtec engagement in our accords is so low, and the effect limited due to only acting on the intake valves, that power progression is more of a subtle transition following the engines natural build in power as rpm increases.
I will say however, you will certainly notice if vtec IS NOT working because the car will have almost no power above 3000 rpms.
There are really two general reasons vtec systems don't work in hondas, electrical or ECU related, and mechanical.
Testing the electrical systems is easier so start there.
Find the 12v voltage supply running from your ECU to the vtec solenoid.
On an obd1 car it is pin a4, on obd2 it is a8.
Hook a multimeter lead to the wire leaving the appropriate pin location and ground the other lead.
Accelerate the car past 2400 rpms and see if the meter reads 12 volts.
If it doesn't, and your obd1, check your pressure switch wiring, vtec won't engage below 50 psi so you could have an oil pressure problem as well.
If your obd2 don't worry about that because your ecu doesn't use a pressure switch.
If you are getting 12 volts to the solenoid, a mechanical issue is occurring preventing engagement.
Vtec relies on oil pressure to act as a hydraulic fluid engaging timing and synchronizing pistons which in turn shifts between high and low cam operation.
Because of this, a lack of oil pressure is usually to blame for mechanical system failures.
Check the vtec solenoid gasket, it has a screen at the inlet port, make sure it is clean and dirt free.
It is also a good idea to check the gasket between the solenoid and the valve body itself as it can fail over time letting oil pressure bleed off.
If all else fails you can also remove the valve cover and pressurize the vtec oil galleys with air by removing the service port plug to manually check for vtec engagement.
If you're unclear about any of this just ask, I'm tired and pretty sure some of this was hard to understand.
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From: St. Paul, MN
Re: F22b1 vtec problems
You're not suppose to feel it kick in. VTEC only engages at somewhere like 2.2K to only 3.2K rpm or something. You won't feel it like the DOHC VTEC engines.
To find out if VTEC is really working, unplug the VTEC Solenoid and run it around the block, it should lag real bad with a check engine light on. Then once you plug the connector back on, CEL should go away and it should run like normal again. This is how you know your VTEC on these F22B1 works.
To find out if VTEC is really working, unplug the VTEC Solenoid and run it around the block, it should lag real bad with a check engine light on. Then once you plug the connector back on, CEL should go away and it should run like normal again. This is how you know your VTEC on these F22B1 works.
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Re: F22b1 vtec problems
thanks for the help. i know that vtec isnt kicking in becuz it bogs down pass 3000 and it sounds like the motor ganno jump out the car i have 2 mototr mounts bad witch is no help but when vtec works you can here the motor mount rattle. vtec is only kicking in when the car is cold or been siting for a couple days. any addvice there
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From: Nova Scotia,Canada
Re: F22b1 vtec problems
For one crossing over into vtec while the engine is cold is not a good idea. The new I-vtecs won't allow vtec to engage when cold for that reason. Have you checked your oil lately?
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Re: F22b1 vtec problems
The thing about the f22b1 vtec is you don't really feel it "kicking in" when its working properly.
The vtec engagement in our accords is so low, and the effect limited due to only acting on the intake valves, that power progression is more of a subtle transition following the engines natural build in power as rpm increases.
I will say however, you will certainly notice if vtec IS NOT working because the car will have almost no power above 3000 rpms.
There are really two general reasons vtec systems don't work in hondas, electrical or ECU related, and mechanical.
Testing the electrical systems is easier so start there.
Find the 12v voltage supply running from your ECU to the vtec solenoid.
On an obd1 car it is pin a4, on obd2 it is a8.
Hook a multimeter lead to the wire leaving the appropriate pin location and ground the other lead.
Accelerate the car past 2400 rpms and see if the meter reads 12 volts.
If it doesn't, and your obd1, check your pressure switch wiring, vtec won't engage below 50 psi so you could have an oil pressure problem as well.
If your obd2 don't worry about that because your ecu doesn't use a pressure switch.
If you are getting 12 volts to the solenoid, a mechanical issue is occurring preventing engagement.
Vtec relies on oil pressure to act as a hydraulic fluid engaging timing and synchronizing pistons which in turn shifts between high and low cam operation.
Because of this, a lack of oil pressure is usually to blame for mechanical system failures.
Check the vtec solenoid gasket, it has a screen at the inlet port, make sure it is clean and dirt free.
It is also a good idea to check the gasket between the solenoid and the valve body itself as it can fail over time letting oil pressure bleed off.
If all else fails you can also remove the valve cover and pressurize the vtec oil galleys with air by removing the service port plug to manually check for vtec engagement.
If you're unclear about any of this just ask, I'm tired and pretty sure some of this was hard to understand.
The vtec engagement in our accords is so low, and the effect limited due to only acting on the intake valves, that power progression is more of a subtle transition following the engines natural build in power as rpm increases.
I will say however, you will certainly notice if vtec IS NOT working because the car will have almost no power above 3000 rpms.
There are really two general reasons vtec systems don't work in hondas, electrical or ECU related, and mechanical.
Testing the electrical systems is easier so start there.
Find the 12v voltage supply running from your ECU to the vtec solenoid.
On an obd1 car it is pin a4, on obd2 it is a8.
Hook a multimeter lead to the wire leaving the appropriate pin location and ground the other lead.
Accelerate the car past 2400 rpms and see if the meter reads 12 volts.
If it doesn't, and your obd1, check your pressure switch wiring, vtec won't engage below 50 psi so you could have an oil pressure problem as well.
If your obd2 don't worry about that because your ecu doesn't use a pressure switch.
If you are getting 12 volts to the solenoid, a mechanical issue is occurring preventing engagement.
Vtec relies on oil pressure to act as a hydraulic fluid engaging timing and synchronizing pistons which in turn shifts between high and low cam operation.
Because of this, a lack of oil pressure is usually to blame for mechanical system failures.
Check the vtec solenoid gasket, it has a screen at the inlet port, make sure it is clean and dirt free.
It is also a good idea to check the gasket between the solenoid and the valve body itself as it can fail over time letting oil pressure bleed off.
If all else fails you can also remove the valve cover and pressurize the vtec oil galleys with air by removing the service port plug to manually check for vtec engagement.
If you're unclear about any of this just ask, I'm tired and pretty sure some of this was hard to understand.
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big bentley
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