tf87

Okay, so I'm working on a 1991 Accord. The engine light is on. When I jump the connector to read the flashes of the engine light, I turn the key on. First thing that happens is a short flash, kind of like it initialized the code reading. Then I get 3 short flashes, 9 short flashes, then 4 long flashes with 1 short flash right after the last fourth like the end of the codes. After that its a long pause then starts over again, 3 short, 9 short, 4 long with 1 short flash right after the fourth long, then long pause again, then repeats. So is this a code 3, code 9, and code 4? I thought the long flashes came before the short flashes, and if it is code 4 why is it long flashes? Thank you in advance for the help.

MAD_MIKE

Nope, codes are always sequential. From lowest code read to highest before strating over again. Verify that there isn't a code '1' after '41'.
3 MAP sensor
9 CYP sensor(inside distributor)
41 HO2S(O2 heater circuit.)

If you have done any work on or near the thermostat housing, verify that the engine harness ground is still attached to the housing, verify no damage and the connection is clean and tight. A loose or damaged ground can lead to ghost engine codes and erratic running at times.
Same with all the other bonding jumpers(engine mount) and main battery cable leads. Also battery cables to battery connections are clean and tight, the battery itself is also clean and free of any junk.

Remove the ECM backup fuse for 10seconds and allow the memory to clear.
Turn ignition to II(ON) and see if the MIL starts to blink.
If not, start the engine, allow to warm up to full temp and proceed to drive around. If the codes do not return and the vehicle operates normally it may have been an intermittent issue, loose connection, or something was disconnected while the ignition was II(ON) but the engine was not running.

tf87

After thinking about it for a while, I believe you are correct. Codes 3,9, and 41. I might record a short video to make sure. I was just confused with the short and long flashes lol.

So moving on with those codes the problem I am having is a sputtering or stalling condition when driving. I can start the car and it will idle really well, even letting it run in park for 20 minutes or so. I can rev it up while it is parked but if I drive it down the road, say a mile or 2 I will press the accelerator and it will sputter, and sometimes die and is hard to start back up. I think something is heating up and failing when driving it. I have already replaced the tps, I bench tested it and was getting erratic readings while ohming the ground side. If we go back to the engine codes which one should I start to look at first. I believe the 41 code is just for the heater of the o2 sensor so that shouldn't be an issue when the car is at operating temp. So that leaves code 3- map sensor, and 9- cyp sensor.

tf87

After checking codes this morning a new code popped up over night. 6- coolant temp sensor.

quicksandcd7

My 95 EX is having the same issue, what did you do to fix this?

tf87

still working on it. I was hoping someone else would have replied by now. I also tightened up the fast idle thermal valve, seemed to maybe help a little but still having the same issue.

tf87

Also when the engine is cold, at first start up it will surge at idle. Rpm will just go up and down for a few minutes until it warms up, then will idle smooth, but try to push accelerator and will die.

quicksandcd7

MAD_MIKE

Best way to check TPS and MAP sensors is to backprobe the sensor output and watch the voltage change, look for linear changes.
With the TPS simply sweep through the throttle. With the MAP it is best to use a vacuum pump and verify constant linear voltage output change with vacuum change.
I highly doubt you have this many components failing, not to mention how it is changing codes.
I would suggest that you check your wiring harness.
Verify the grounds, verify the connections, verify there are no busted connections, loose or missing pins. Disconnect, check, and reinsert. Loosen the ground terminal bolts, verify there is no corrosion or goo causing a lack of continuity.
G1 ground is from batt neg cable to body
G2 ground is the bonding jumper for the engine mount/cam cover. It will be a three legged harness, main jumper will attach to either side of the engine mount, third leg will bolt to the cam/valve cover.
G101(which all of the above mentioned components use) main engine harness ground, is attached via a bolt on the thermostat housing.
Verify the connection at the ECU is also not compromised, nor is the ECU itself getting wet, flooded, or damaged.
If there was any other work done prior to the TPS issue, no matter how insignificant or seemingly unrelated, go back over that work.

tf87

Well yesterday I was checking different sensors with the meter and I was going to check coolant temperature sensor. I tried to unplug it and the plastic housing came off the sensor in my hand with it still attached to pigtail. Also oil soaked inside and out. Since it broke I replaced it and cleaned the connector really well with brake cleaner and blew dry with compressed air a couple of times. I let it run about 20 minutes to let it get up to operating temp, running great at this time so I decided to take it for a drive. While driving it was running really well, no cutting out or sputtering or stalling. I get about 4 miles down the road and kind of sputters now if i let the rpms drop then push the accelerator, but if i leave the rpms up it runs really well. I get about another mile and a half and all off a sudden it shuts down. I pull over to a side road off the main highway, try to start back and just cranks and cranks will not hit at all. So I call for a trailer and we load it up and take it back. This is the first time I have not been able to start it back at all, usually wait a few minutes it will start, may run rough but will start. I check over everything, getting fire, getting fuel, injector pulse is good, spray carb cleaner in the intake and nothing. Check compression and its ok, about 120psi. Then I check the timing. I roll the engine over to tdc and the cam gear is about 2 teeth off. *SLIDE* (with some effort) the timing belt off the cam gear and put it back to where its supposed to be and finally fires back up. So that's where I'm at now. Got a new belt kit and cam seal because there is oil all over this engine and belt just have to make time to replace it. Dont know if thats the cause of the original issue, but if it was running with 1 tooth off I could see the engine/pcm not liking that.

tf87

Okay so I finally replaced the timing belts and new seals on the cam, crank and balance shafts. It started up and ran but when I pressed the accelerator it started idling u and down again for about 5 minutes, then cleared up and was idling smoothly. I went for a test drive, I get about a mile down the road and it starts sputtering and bucking and dies. Started right back up and would run for about 30 sec. and die. It drove like that the whole way back most of the time it would not rev up when pressing the accelerator but occasionally would. When I got back it was hard to start, would fire up but run rough. What should I check next? Wish I could see whats going on while driving.

MAD_MIKE

So, did you ever check the grounds and harness outside of the rotten connector?
Really seems like if one connected is bust, that the condition of the rest is probably in as sorry state.

Clean the engine with some simple green/409(green cleaner) and hose it down.
Inspect the harness, the grounds and all the connections, including the big ole plugs over by the fuse box.