Brake rotor troubling questions
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: san francisco, ca
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brake rotor troubling questions
Hi,
I have a couple of quick questions:
1) First and foremost, I am changing my upper control arm as I do my rotors. I've removed my knuckle completely. As I reassemble everything, I notice my new Moog UCA is a good 8" from top of my knuckle. I'm assuming it's beyond full droop after taking out the knuckle. It's seated in the lower control arm (ball joint)
Am I suppose to loosen the UCA bolts so it can droop down to the knuckle, but then change the factory set Moog angle? Or just jack the knuckle upwards (via LCA) till knuckle reaches the UCA? I tried bending the UCA arm downward, but that looked like it was going to break the UCA.
2) How do you know when the wheel bearing is all the way seated? I'm afraid it's at a slight cant.
I have a couple of quick questions:
1) First and foremost, I am changing my upper control arm as I do my rotors. I've removed my knuckle completely. As I reassemble everything, I notice my new Moog UCA is a good 8" from top of my knuckle. I'm assuming it's beyond full droop after taking out the knuckle. It's seated in the lower control arm (ball joint)
Am I suppose to loosen the UCA bolts so it can droop down to the knuckle, but then change the factory set Moog angle? Or just jack the knuckle upwards (via LCA) till knuckle reaches the UCA? I tried bending the UCA arm downward, but that looked like it was going to break the UCA.
2) How do you know when the wheel bearing is all the way seated? I'm afraid it's at a slight cant.
#2
Re: Brake rotor troubling questions
Ya just jack under the lower control arm to push the knuckle up to be able to put the knuckle into the upper control arm ball joint then tighten down the castle nut.
The wheel bearing, assuming you've replaced it, it should just bottom out and be done. If it didn't bottom out when you replaced it then it needs to keep going. They can't really go cockeyed unless they're worn and bad I think.
The nuts you are showing in your pic should be self-locking. You just tighten them down to spec and it should stay there while at the same time allowing the bolt to flex up and down normally while driving.
The wheel bearing, assuming you've replaced it, it should just bottom out and be done. If it didn't bottom out when you replaced it then it needs to keep going. They can't really go cockeyed unless they're worn and bad I think.
The nuts you are showing in your pic should be self-locking. You just tighten them down to spec and it should stay there while at the same time allowing the bolt to flex up and down normally while driving.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
r_kage
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
13
08-30-2016 01:35 PM
Vagitarian
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
22
05-30-2012 05:06 AM