b17 turbo

im posting this for a freind who is having troubles with his car it cranks then it fires and shuts off then it wont start wait a couple minuites then it will do the same thing there is good spark and fuel but one thing we noticed is that when the car is cranking and we have the spark plug out and grunding it it sparks then it stops then it starts again. its not constantly sparking i beleive the motor is a f23 vtec the motor was just put in

Duane_in_Japan

Mechanical timing (belt) needs to be checked, also what are all of the sensors involved on the exact engine to time for spark, meaning, what pickups are in the distributor and on the nose of the crankshaft, if any. Does this car have an immobilizer or any type of security system.

b17 turbo

i forgot to mention that the engine was runnig when he pulled it out of the donor car the donor car was an automatic so he changed the ecu and the wire harness when he dropped it in his car

Duane_in_Japan

Well, that doesnt mean that a wire didnt get broken or a ground forgot to get attached or a set of identical connectors didnt get reversed.

Step 2, do you have spark, fuel pressure, compression, proper mechanical timing, fuel injection, proper spark / fuel injection timing (indexing). Can you force a code in the ECU by disconnecting a sensor and cranking the engine.

My first post still is unanswered.

stereo69

sounds like a bad ignition switch there was a recall on it find out if it has ever been done...

aasaa666

immobilizer system needs to be programmed by the dealer

b17 turbo

the car does not have a security system . is the immobilizer system like a factory alarm system ? also would a bad ignition switch cause this? this car had a h22 in it then the stock motor was put back in thats when all this started when he put the h22 in it he had no problems then he swapped it back to stock and it wont stay on

aasaa666

we still need more detail like _ exactly what PCM is in there: original from the car or the one from the donor car? is the car Manual or Auto now?

Read on if your PCM in the car is not the original one from the vehicle, there is what stereo69 mentioned earlier about a recall- but its faster to just call them and verify it.

Yeah, its like honda's very own kill switch. this This is the honda type 2 immobilizer system. This is not like the new system that needs the receiver to be programmed. The receiver on the type 2 only does one thing- use electromagnetic induction to read the Key ID, when the PCM identifies that the key in the ignition is the correct key it will let the vehicle start, and stay ON. This is where your problem lies. You changed the PCM, the PCM doesn't identify that the keys in the ignition is the correct key, so the PCM will start a couple seconds and turn off, the key icon should be flashing as well. how do you fix this problem? you can try get the ignition key tumbler from the donor car and their correct keys, then change yours out. the other option, which is the most practical one, is pay the fee- go to the dealership, and see if they can try to program it for you.

stereo69

if the immobilizer is a issue the car would not fire up and die right away, as it would have no spark at all also the green key light would keep blinking in the on position.. but since the OP swapped motors it's more then likely somthing that was missed with the reinstall like a ground wire or somthing.

YeuEmMaiMai

car start and die is usually a bad non connected sensor

hook up a scan tool and get the readout

b17 turbo

the car is a 5 spd its always been like that he called honda to check on any recals and he gave them the vin and they said the recal was not for his car the original motor and ecu were sold when he put the h22 in it he went and got another f23 motor out of an automatic to put in im not sure what ecu he is using he got from another 5spd but i will find outwhich one it is. when we are cranking the car over the little green key light on the cluster is flashing and stays flashing the whole approximent 3-4 secs the fires. so from what you guys are telling me the ecu reads the key correct? and if its not the correct key that was programmed to the ecu from the original car it wont start?

aasaa666

b17 turbo, I explained it to you quite clearly how the system works, on the previous post. The computer PCM? ECM doesn't recognize the key ID within the key for your friend's car because that new PCM that your friend has, in generic terms, is paired with the keys for the car that it came from. Meaning your buddy has to go to the dealer to get your keys programmed into the new PCM/ECM your friend bought. Other option is, find a 98-02 Accord 5 SPEED, take the key, ignition key tumbler, and ECM/PCM from it because they will all be paired up and have no problem, and for emergency purpose write down the VIN number on the vehicle. don't ask me how i know so much about the immobilzer, I just love honda.

b17 turbo

aasaa666 thanks for all the helpfull info i was just double checking to make sure i was on the same page. he was arguing with me that the ecu wasnt the problem and that there was no reason for that to be holding the car from starting. so i took his hondata ecu which was from his boosted h22 swap its a p28 and i hooked it up with the jumper he had the car started it ran but check engine light came on im guessing it was because it was tuned for the h22 well after seeing that the car started it finally made sense to him about what i was trying to explain to him so now hes taking the car to honda to get the keys reprogrammed. thanks to all of you that helped me out with info