Official EF SEDAN SQUAD Thread
Hey here are some pics of the sedans i picked up. Tell me if you guys have fixed this type of damage before...remember, i got this for $100



Here is the EX i got for $800, tags til 1/11, clean title.





Here is the EX i got for $800, tags til 1/11, clean title.



That thing is sick!!!
But in that sort of way that makes a fast station wagon cool
I think in the front of this page it says no put downs.
4. Constructive Criticism ONLY. NO putting down other squad member's sedans. You can make some suggestions that you think would make it better, but don't trash talk it.
wait it does.
4. Constructive Criticism ONLY. NO putting down other squad member's sedans. You can make some suggestions that you think would make it better, but don't trash talk it.
wait it does.
At least your sedan isnt battle ship gray. I know mine was, but only for like 2 months haha.
that grey/blue sedan is not worth fixing imo, id just part it out and make more money selling parts than to just fix that rad support. looks bent up badly. Possibly the frame is bent inwards to.
You'll have to either cut and reweld a new headlight housing, or bend it straight.
get a new t bar and open up the distance between both housings. and line up the hood and possibly align the hood hinges.
You'll have to either cut and reweld a new headlight housing, or bend it straight.
get a new t bar and open up the distance between both housings. and line up the hood and possibly align the hood hinges.
that grey/blue sedan is not worth fixing imo, id just part it out and make more money selling parts than to just fix that rad support. looks bent up badly. Possibly the frame is bent inwards to.
You'll have to either cut and reweld a new headlight housing, or bend it straight.
get a new t bar and open up the distance between both housings. and line up the hood and possibly align the hood hinges.
You'll have to either cut and reweld a new headlight housing, or bend it straight.
get a new t bar and open up the distance between both housings. and line up the hood and possibly align the hood hinges.
Take all the bulbs out of the sockets in the tail lights, reverse lights and rear turn signals. If the sockets get rusty over the years it can cause grounding issues and the whole electrical/lighting system does some very strange things. It took me a long time to discover this was the source of my problems.
Make sure your grounds behind the dash board are properly grounded and screwed in.
Make sure your dash board harness is plugged into the fuse box
Make sure your fuses arent blown.
Make sure your bulbs are not burnt out
Make sure your taillights are plugged in
And if the problem still occurs, then tell me what happens. Must be something simple.
Make sure your dash board harness is plugged into the fuse box
Make sure your fuses arent blown.
Make sure your bulbs are not burnt out
Make sure your taillights are plugged in
And if the problem still occurs, then tell me what happens. Must be something simple.
Yeah, the rusty tail light sockets can cause your instrument panel lights to do weird stuff. In my case, the fuse for the tail lights and instrument panel kept blowing. When I put a new, bigger fuse in there my instrument panel lights would come on when I pushed on the brakes and my front hazards would flash. It was really odd. Check those sockets first. If they are rusty or corroded sand them down, clean them up if possible or try replacing them if they are too far gone. A friend of mine had a similar problem with his '90 sedan. He sanded down the sockets like I did and it fixed his problem, too.
polishing my friends ssr's today, my arm is gonna fall off. have to work on removing the paint on the faces' and paint the windows of the mesh soon
+10 for rears and +20's for the fronts
+10 for rears and +20's for the fronts
its a 3 piece formula mesh wheel with a custom lip. they are welded at the barrel and at the lip and the face is removeable, we had to use a air rachet and allen wrenches to remove the face.............and used a rubber mallet to hit out the face.
its 15x7 all the way around with +10 offset for rears and +20 for the fronts.
its 15x7 all the way around with +10 offset for rears and +20 for the fronts.
Thread Starter
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From: Wasted away again in Margaritaville
ps rims are my buddies. 4x114.3 and we got him a big 4 big brake conversion ;P
so this is all for today, my hands are really aching but well worth the refinish. Pictures dont show the gloss but its better than the way we first got them
so this is all for today, my hands are really aching but well worth the refinish. Pictures dont show the gloss but its better than the way we first got them
that grey/blue sedan is not worth fixing imo, id just part it out and make more money selling parts than to just fix that rad support. looks bent up badly. Possibly the frame is bent inwards to.
You'll have to either cut and reweld a new headlight housing, or bend it straight.
get a new t bar and open up the distance between both housings. and line up the hood and possibly align the hood hinges.
You'll have to either cut and reweld a new headlight housing, or bend it straight.
get a new t bar and open up the distance between both housings. and line up the hood and possibly align the hood hinges.
a BRAND new, core support from majestichonda, is under 300 dollars. If you dont know how to drill out spotwelds, and plug weld the core support back on, most shops will do it, for 100 bucks, maybe less...so there you have almost 500 bucks into it, get some new parts from the junkyard, hey..maybe 700 into it MAX.. and it would be a good looking car, as long as there's no major rust around the body,and it would really be worth keeping..
There is no point in bending a core support forwards, that is in that ones condition, totally worth being fixed IMO, and not really complicated..
also, i didnt know unibody cars, had frames lol
haha WOT..... that car is definatly worth fixing, if only bought for 100 dollars..
a BRAND new, core support from majestichonda, is under 300 dollars. If you dont know how to drill out spotwelds, and plug weld the core support back on, most shops will do it, for 100 bucks, maybe less...so there you have almost 500 bucks into it, get some new parts from the junkyard, hey..maybe 700 into it MAX.. and it would be a good looking car, as long as there's no major rust around the body,and it would really be worth keeping..
There is no point in bending a core support forwards, that is in that ones condition, totally worth being fixed IMO, and not really complicated..
also, i didnt know unibody cars, had frames lol
a BRAND new, core support from majestichonda, is under 300 dollars. If you dont know how to drill out spotwelds, and plug weld the core support back on, most shops will do it, for 100 bucks, maybe less...so there you have almost 500 bucks into it, get some new parts from the junkyard, hey..maybe 700 into it MAX.. and it would be a good looking car, as long as there's no major rust around the body,and it would really be worth keeping..
There is no point in bending a core support forwards, that is in that ones condition, totally worth being fixed IMO, and not really complicated..
also, i didnt know unibody cars, had frames lol
I can EASILY get everything i need from the local pick a part and fix this damn thing, no problem. The most expensive piece will probably be the headlight.




honest opinion. no hard feelings.