Official EF SEDAN SQUAD Thread
My rear LCAs are actually the new Function & Form ones with the polyurethane bushings. The front UCAs are Skunk2, though. I've only put about 14 miles on them so far and haven't messed with the dampening, but it all appears to be high quality stuff. I also replaced the bent front OEM LCA with one from the parts car and replaced an axle at the same time, so the sedan feels like new. 

dropped my car today............. ahhhhhh ****
tucking tires
wow you suck! I've been trying so hard to hunt one of these down... I got the window visors now i need the hood bra
yeah i was trying to track down a oem bra for months and i kept driving by that car that was bone stock with a bra so one day i was like im just gonna stop and ask if he will sell it but instead he gave me the brand new one which made me happy cause his oem bra was the all black one i like the one with white stitching better
Got window visors, and a volvo lip yesterday!
Going to be getting 15x8 Pro Series Diamond Racing Wheels in the next week or so.
Anybody know where to get decently priced adjustable camber arms.
Going to be getting 15x8 Pro Series Diamond Racing Wheels in the next week or so.
Anybody know where to get decently priced adjustable camber arms.
and i just bought me a camber kit..
jhpusa.com
skunk 2 for the front and buddy club in the baq..

with asr subframe and blox lca's..

it should come in manana
EFEFEF to tell you the truth you dont need UCA camber kits the natural amount of camber the car makes while lowered is enough to tuck almost any offset as long as its not zero(0).
not to mention if you lower your car those aftermark control arms UCA hit the shock tower and are badly made for a car that i s trying to go slammed, although if your just going for a moderately low ride you wont need to worry about keeping the oem arms.
camber kits=not super dumped, ok to buy (will only give +/- 3 degrees of camber)
oem uca= more travel (makes around -3 degrees of camber)
not to mention if you lower your car those aftermark control arms UCA hit the shock tower and are badly made for a car that i s trying to go slammed, although if your just going for a moderately low ride you wont need to worry about keeping the oem arms.
camber kits=not super dumped, ok to buy (will only give +/- 3 degrees of camber)
oem uca= more travel (makes around -3 degrees of camber)
EFEFEF to tell you the truth you dont need UCA camber kits the natural amount of camber the car makes while lowered is enough to tuck almost any offset as long as its not zero(0).
not to mention if you lower your car those aftermark control arms UCA hit the shock tower and are badly made for a car that i s trying to go slammed, although if your just going for a moderately low ride you wont need to worry about keeping the oem arms.
camber kits=not super dumped, ok to buy (will only give +/- 3 degrees of camber)
oem uca= more travel (makes around -3 degrees of camber)
not to mention if you lower your car those aftermark control arms UCA hit the shock tower and are badly made for a car that i s trying to go slammed, although if your just going for a moderately low ride you wont need to worry about keeping the oem arms.
camber kits=not super dumped, ok to buy (will only give +/- 3 degrees of camber)
oem uca= more travel (makes around -3 degrees of camber)
Your theory about the aftermarket UCAs being badly made for a slammed car doesn't make sense, either, unless you are referring to the old Skunk2 design with the camber plate bolt heads on the top. The newer models have the bolts underneath. There is zero difference in travel between the OEM and the aftermarket UCAs.
I have my FF Type-IIs as low as they will possibly go in the front and I haven't had any UCA to strut tower contact, yet. I've driven it about 100 miles so far on some of the worst roads in the city.
I hope you understand I am not trying to hate or anything like that, just provide some factual information. It bothers me that you offer up your opinion and personal preference as if it is fact. You may not care if there is half a degree or more of camber difference between each side when you lower your car, but others may care. It's also worrisome that you state that a product is "badly made" when you seem to have no basis for such a slanderous statement.
my uca's sk2 all around dont hit the towers at all i had ebay coils on before my current setup and never hit at all. i was tucking 13's at one point and still didnt slam my towers.
The problem with keeping the OEM UCAs in the front is you aren't guaranteed the same amount of camber on each side. In fact, I had half a degree of difference between the left and the right. You apparently haven't held the Skunk2 UCAs in your hands, either. I have mine set at -2.5 degrees in the front and I could easily go another -4 or -5 degrees.
Your theory about the aftermarket UCAs being badly made for a slammed car doesn't make sense, either, unless you are referring to the old Skunk2 design with the camber plate bolt heads on the top. The newer models have the bolts underneath. There is zero difference in travel between the OEM and the aftermarket UCAs.
I have my FF Type-IIs as low as they will possibly go in the front and I haven't had any UCA to strut tower contact, yet. I've driven it about 100 miles so far on some of the worst roads in the city.
I hope you understand I am not trying to hate or anything like that, just provide some factual information. It bothers me that you offer up your opinion and personal preference as if it is fact. You may not care if there is half a degree or more of camber difference between each side when you lower your car, but others may care. It's also worrisome that you state that a product is "badly made" when you seem to have no basis for such a slanderous statement.
Your theory about the aftermarket UCAs being badly made for a slammed car doesn't make sense, either, unless you are referring to the old Skunk2 design with the camber plate bolt heads on the top. The newer models have the bolts underneath. There is zero difference in travel between the OEM and the aftermarket UCAs.
I have my FF Type-IIs as low as they will possibly go in the front and I haven't had any UCA to strut tower contact, yet. I've driven it about 100 miles so far on some of the worst roads in the city.
I hope you understand I am not trying to hate or anything like that, just provide some factual information. It bothers me that you offer up your opinion and personal preference as if it is fact. You may not care if there is half a degree or more of camber difference between each side when you lower your car, but others may care. It's also worrisome that you state that a product is "badly made" when you seem to have no basis for such a slanderous statement.
here i will make my answer clear
AFTERmarket equipment in this case is not identical to the oem counterpart.
Bad designs make it hard to lower a car onto such parts since, they are not a direct copy.
After market UCA are made in such a design where the U shape is more bulkier than the oem type arms. Either because they use a more durable design to compensate for the negative camber, or because it was badly copied(replicated, Designed). Yes i understand there is engineering involved, but the designed it for performance, not for a slammed application........
I can prove to you if i can source my front UCA, that it is in fact a badly replicated part.
1.) The U shape hits the inner Subframe of the car before it hits the shock tower
2.) the adjustable ball joint frame of the UCA hits the outer part of the subframe of the car, and gets shaved off by everyday use and eats away at the metal from the car
3.) with more camber and more lowering, parts of the aftermarket UCA hit the spindle arms of the car where it meets the camber arms.
Although they can allow for negative and positive camber adjustment; for lowering applications, it is not safe for the UCA its self. parts of the camber plates get smacked out of place, parts of the arms get eaten away from rubbing against metal.........and eventually it'll break.
If you want more camber out of the stock UCA, you can used the bolt type camber kits for more adjustment, but the amount of negative camber out cars can get without a camber kit will be around -3 degrees of camber.
which will be more than enough to run a low offset wheel and still now rub.
NA i understand that others care about the amount of symmetry people want in their cars, im just giving my answer to OP's question. he can buy his UCA, or he can buy an ingalls camber kit, either way he will fit those rims, no questions asked
plus im not saying the parts suck, its good quality stuff, i just bought it and didnt like it. gets the job done, but not what i was looking for. idk how to prove that its not my opinion, its a fact that i have proven.
sp33, you can however box this one up and send it to me
--> http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/...1837&silo=1011
--> http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/...1837&silo=1011
go to reply
scroll down if you have to, and click manage attachments. upload using your computer and click upload, after that click close page, and just add words, the click finish.
oh and EFEFEF
go to google and search diamond racing wheels BENT
alot of people seem to agree
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=36529
scroll down if you have to, and click manage attachments. upload using your computer and click upload, after that click close page, and just add words, the click finish.
oh and EFEFEF
go to google and search diamond racing wheels BENT
alot of people seem to agree
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=36529
they designed it for performance, not for a slammed application........

go to reply
scroll down if you have to, and click manage attachments. upload using your computer and click upload, after that click close page, and just add words, the click finish.
oh and EFEFEF
go to google and search diamond racing wheels BENT
alot of people seem to agree
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=36529
scroll down if you have to, and click manage attachments. upload using your computer and click upload, after that click close page, and just add words, the click finish.
oh and EFEFEF
go to google and search diamond racing wheels BENT
alot of people seem to agree
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=36529
http://www.bassettwheel.com/dot.html




