((((((((----EG Hatch Thread----PT 2 )))))))))
. This is gonna drag on like the bys debate.
it could go on forever so, might as well keep going.
drums are definitely lighter than a disc setup by far. pads are easier to change than shoes, drum hardware normally breaks while swapping out old parts, etc. we know all those lines.
look outside the box though. there are some people who run very light disc setups in autox since he build up isn't to wild. some set ups i have seen wouldn't last over a track day let alone a session really. i guess what it comes down to is, do you have the money to play? if the budget is tight or time is tight, stay with drums. they are already there for goodness sake.
drums are definitely lighter than a disc setup by far. pads are easier to change than shoes, drum hardware normally breaks while swapping out old parts, etc. we know all those lines.
look outside the box though. there are some people who run very light disc setups in autox since he build up isn't to wild. some set ups i have seen wouldn't last over a track day let alone a session really. i guess what it comes down to is, do you have the money to play? if the budget is tight or time is tight, stay with drums. they are already there for goodness sake.
I do everything I can to shed weight. Even if it means ugly drums lol.
Wasn't trying to start a debate I was just throwing that fact out there. Sorry to fluster you all
Wasn't trying to start a debate I was just throwing that fact out there. Sorry to fluster you all
I'd have to change my name to TheArtistFKAWhiteSlipsWithStickers and that just wouldn't have the same ring to it...
I got some work done on the new trailing arms/brakes last night. I'll post up some before/after pictures once I get things done.
Anyone rockin' Suspension Techniques rear trailing arm bushings?
I got some work done on the new trailing arms/brakes last night. I'll post up some before/after pictures once I get things done.
Anyone rockin' Suspension Techniques rear trailing arm bushings?
i dont quite get what your saying here, please explain. You're saying that you were contemplating going back to stock because of weight reduction but why would weight reduction matter unless your road racing/ autox'ing?
one of the main reasons i would rather have disc's on a daily just for the fact that changing a disc and a pad is ten times easy/faster than shoes and a drum.
another thing, aftermarket pads for discs are easy to get your hands on and alot cheaper if oem is not good enough for you
one of the main reasons i would rather have disc's on a daily just for the fact that changing a disc and a pad is ten times easy/faster than shoes and a drum.
another thing, aftermarket pads for discs are easy to get your hands on and alot cheaper if oem is not good enough for you
My car will never be a drag car, so weight doesn't really matter to me. It probably has 50 pounds of sound deadening in it and I plan on packing the rear quarters with cotton and more sound deadening in other places. I was just sick of my e-brake not working, shoes wearing unevenly and them looking like poo. I got them for $100 too, so I couldn't pass that up.
FYI for the master cylinder...I upgraded to a 15/16th mc since I kept blowing my stock 13/16th mc out. I'm pretty sure it was because I'm running the larger front brakes, (just like I see you are with the OEM DC2 10.2" front brakes). You'll be much happier with the bigger mc and the pedal will feel better as well. Here is the info: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...master+upgrade
Trust me...it works. I know longer have issues with my mc blowing out and leaking fluid down the front of the brake booster.
Trust me...it works. I know longer have issues with my mc blowing out and leaking fluid down the front of the brake booster.
I will definitely be upgrading to the 13/16 MC when I do mine. It's the same price and makes total sense to me.... What are your thoughts on Suspension Techniques trailing arm bushings? I can't seem to find where OEM trailing arm bushings are sold separately from the trailing arm...
I"ve heard it's a bad combo for a street car. You'll want to stay with OEM rta bushings. I got mine from HondaPartsDeals.com. http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html
My car will never be a drag car, so weight doesn't really matter to me. It probably has 50 pounds of sound deadening in it and I plan on packing the rear quarters with cotton and more sound deadening in other places. I was just sick of my e-brake not working, shoes wearing unevenly and them looking like poo. I got them for $100 too, so I couldn't pass that up.
The shoes on our cars are suppose to wear unevenly I believe. One is primary one is a follower
You mean 15/16" right? Haha...typo I'm sure.
I"ve heard it's a bad combo for a street car. You'll want to stay with OEM rta bushings. I got mine from HondaPartsDeals.com. http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html
I"ve heard it's a bad combo for a street car. You'll want to stay with OEM rta bushings. I got mine from HondaPartsDeals.com. http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html
I wasn't sure if I could run the Civic bushings in there, but I guess they are all the same diameter and mounting points.
Thanks for the reply.
The problem I've had is that one half of the shoe wears all the way to metal and the other half is perfectly fine. I've had them adjusted by professionals, adjusted them myself and changed the shoes twice over the years only to have the same results. Just gets old after a while....
lol drums are also really unpredictable. You don't know when they're going to lock up. Its not like with disc brakes where you can modulate the brake pressure and if it locks up you can let go a bit. You can always go with a light brake setup.
I'm at about 2100 when I get into racemode. Otherwise rolling around at 2200ish with passenger seat and a full tank of gas. I really don't want to cut the **** out of my car to drop weight. I get the function and all but just my personal taste to have discs. I preload my car hard, I don't need drums slipping messing me up
I'm way beyond caring about how slow my car is at this point. It starts, drives and corners well and soon the brakes will be up to par. I only drive it a few times a month, so gas mileage doesn't really matter either haha.
The problem I've had is that one half of the shoe wears all the way to metal and the other half is perfectly fine. I've had them adjusted by professionals, adjusted them myself and changed the shoes twice over the years only to have the same results. Just gets old after a while....
The problem I've had is that one half of the shoe wears all the way to metal and the other half is perfectly fine. I've had them adjusted by professionals, adjusted them myself and changed the shoes twice over the years only to have the same results. Just gets old after a while....
If your brakes are working correctly the drums shouldn't lock up before the front discs anyway..
i doubt there will be a starved rock meet this year, im deployed so i cant put it together this year unless someone else steps up to the plate plus last years wasnt very good
Hey whiteslips if you want another option for a brake master upgrade, go with a S2k booster and master, you get the 1 inch master and the eg line pretty much bolt right up. i have this setup on my car. I love it.
Nice score on the Weds!
I'm finally going to bite the bullet and get back to work on my EG. I'm settled in the new place and bored of COD: Black Ops. I'll at least spend a few weekends on the EG until BF3 and SWTOR come out.
I've been amassing a huge collection of parts that I can't do anything with until the car is painted. So I'm going to get the engine bay done first so I can get the K assembled and put in. THEN, I'll get ready for the pain (money wise) for the outside body work and paint.
What's a fair price for a gutted engine bay to be painted with minor work (to clean up after I remove the passenger side motor mount)?
Also, I'm slowly selling off a bunch of extra parts. Check my sig for updates/details.
Steve
I'm finally going to bite the bullet and get back to work on my EG. I'm settled in the new place and bored of COD: Black Ops. I'll at least spend a few weekends on the EG until BF3 and SWTOR come out.

I've been amassing a huge collection of parts that I can't do anything with until the car is painted. So I'm going to get the engine bay done first so I can get the K assembled and put in. THEN, I'll get ready for the pain (money wise) for the outside body work and paint.
What's a fair price for a gutted engine bay to be painted with minor work (to clean up after I remove the passenger side motor mount)?
Also, I'm slowly selling off a bunch of extra parts. Check my sig for updates/details.
Steve





