<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The first time you drive a del Sol is like the first time you have sex. It isn't that great, but the smile on your face makes you coming back for more and more!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sigged.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skip.two &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">morning ******</TD></TR></TABLE>

herro?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skip.two &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">morning ******</TD></TR></TABLE>

Guess what? It's 8pm and I still havn't started! Procrastination &gt; me


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowSlow93Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sigged.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skip.two &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what if we built one racing Sol, so we can can put it in a truck like that. imagine us rollin deep and escorting that around lol. now thats gangsta hahaha </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahahhaha! we'd need the rice patrol del sol and the star wars one especially!!

I guess we can consider jimmy mr. top secret lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicoleheartsSOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i realllllllly like that color.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah definetly stick with ur car. I lost a LOT of money when I decided to trade my old del sol and a couple of months later I just had to go back to another one. It felt like I took 5 steps forward,and then 10 steps back,and now Im right back to where I started to begin with! LOL.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The first time you drive a del Sol is like the first time you have sex. It isn't that great, but the smile on your face makes you coming back for more and more!</TD></TR></TABLE>

ROFL. DEFINETLY sig material

 

what up hoes?? james i thought you would like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guess what? It's 8pm and I still havn't started! Procrastination &gt; me</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahaha you're so dead

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicoleheartsSOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i realllllllly like that color.</TD></TR></TABLE>

which one? i have 3 different colored panels on the car

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sucat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was planning on boosting it... right now i am just way to impatient because the car is sitting in the garage for a year and a couple of months and now i just want to drive it..... i have never driven a sol before and i want to see what it is like there are only a couple around here and they wont even let their gurlfriends sit in the car much less let sumone they hardly know drive around a parking lot...soooo ya

EDIT: i come from a very poor family unless you can find a non base model for about the same price i am stuck with a base unless it is a auto tranny then i might just go for a gsr swap not sure </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok cool. i was just looking at for ya man. but if i was going to boost then i would get the base with the lower compression to turn up the boost. if you've waited this long for the sol and you really want a k then get all the parts you can and just save a bit more to finish up. maybe reuse the stock parts as much as possible to get it running. cant wait to see what you can do. i'm researching so i can go K also.

 

thanks Son for the shoot and thanks guys for the comments ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOLtrain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah definetly stick with ur car. I lost a LOT of money when I decided to trade my old del sol and a couple of months later I just had to go back to another one. It felt like I took 5 steps forward,and then 10 steps back,and now Im right back to where I started to begin with! LOL.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah coupeville didn't really suit you. Oh well we all learn from our mistakes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black94sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what up hoes?? james i thought you would like that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh? Did I miss something?

BTW ******... Friday I'm taking the bold step of teaching myself how to wet sand. I'm very very excited (and scared).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RARE_EG2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks Son for the shoot and thanks guys for the comments ..</TD></TR></TABLE>
sweeeet but i know theres gotta be more. so hurry up wit it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW ******... Friday I'm taking the bold step of teaching myself how to wet sand. I'm very very excited (and scared). </TD></TR></TABLE>
its not too bad. high grit sand paper and a hose, and get to it...

dude get to work lol

 

jimmy that wing looks amazing!!!!

i guess i'll have kick up my game

jimmy cover me for ownage??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skip.two &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not too bad. high grit sand paper and a hose, and get to it...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

high grit sand paper, lots of water, a few drops of dish soap, rubber squeegie, leather cloth, soft cloth, more water, polish compound, No.1, 2, 3 buffer clothes and a buffer.

I know I'm forgetting something...

Luckily I got a spare EDM fender and a USDM bumper to practice on. Then if that goes well, I'll practice on my (many years abandoned) '88 Accord, then my dads VW MkII Golf, then my buddies E30 and THEN once I've mastered it, the Sol!


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skip.two &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude get to work lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

I keep saying I'll start in 10 minutes, but I've been saying that since Friday.


Jimmy - post pictures of the rear!!!!

 

The trick to wetsanding is to get all areas evenly, and dont go crazy with the gritty sandpapers.
After each grit, sand the other direction, once all the scratches/scuffs are gone from the previous direction, you can go to a finer paper, switch directions, and do it again.
Oh yeah, and be careful where you splatter the rubbing compounds and glaze, once it dries its hard to get out of cracks and crevices.
And dont leave any glaze or especially rubbing compound on the paint overnight, because it will etch, and you will have to do that step over again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by memphisraines26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

which one? i have 3 different colored panels on the car
.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha the actual maroon ish burgandy red color.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solerizr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The trick to wetsanding is to get all areas evenly, and dont go crazy with the gritty sandpapers.
After each grit, sand the other direction, once all the scratches/scuffs are gone from the previous direction, you can go to a finer paper, switch directions, and do it again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking only 1500 and 2000 grit. What do you mean by the other direction? Don't you go back and forth anyways when you sand?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solerizr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yeah, and be careful where you splatter the rubbing compounds and glaze, once it dries its hard to get out of cracks and crevices.
And dont leave any glaze or especially rubbing compound on the paint overnight, because it will etch, and you will have to do that step over again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I plan on buffing it right then and there... shouldn't that be enough?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

high grit sand paper, lots of water, a few drops of dish soap, rubber squeegie, leather cloth, soft cloth, more water, polish compound, No.1, 2, 3 buffer clothes and a buffer.
I know I'm forgetting something...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

A good/complete wax system(like meguiars mirror glaze products), lots of time/patience, very light preassure(basically just let the paper do the work and let your hand guide it over the surface and keep it in line) go side to side and then up and down(or vice versa) DON'T USE A SWIRL MOTION!!!!

I've done it before on my fenders and driverside door(although not nearly as much as I did on the fenders)...if orangepeel and defects are really noticeable, I'd start with 1000, do that for about 15-20min. per panel, then up it to 1500 for about 10-15min per panel and finally 2000 grit for 10 min....of course if it's not too bad you can start right with 1500.

I used that process on my fenders and they look nearly flawless(when they are clean ), the driverside door I only did with 1000 for like 5min. and quit because I got too tired(worked out that day, helped my dad move and later that night I did the wetsanding) and just never got around to finish it yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by memphisraines26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok cool. i was just looking at for ya man. but if i was going to boost then i would get the base with the lower compression to turn up the boost. if you've waited this long for the sol and you really want a k then get all the parts you can and just save a bit more to finish up. maybe reuse the stock parts as much as possible to get it running. cant wait to see what you can do. i'm researching so i can go K also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i apperaciate you looking after me and trying to help as much as possible. thats why i started posting on this thread....anywho i just got off the phone with nagasaki and they said that it was a manual soo i will be ordering it in the next few days. i need about 1300 more to have enough to get it in the car and running so i cant wait.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was thinking only 1500 and 2000 grit. What do you mean by the other direction? Don't you go back and forth anyways when you sand?

I plan on buffing it right then and there... shouldn't that be enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A.) It depends on if you want the orange peel gone, or you just wanna shine it up a lil.
And you go back and fort say, up and down with 1500, so all the "scratches" go up and down, then with 2000, you go side to side, so you can see when all the scratches from the 1500 are gone.

B.) And you gotta buff with a compound, i would use a 2 step buff system, where you buff with a light rubbing compund, the finish it off with a race glaze, then a hand wax WITH NO CLEANERS in it!!!!!!

The main concepts are not to go overboard with the pressure, and hope you still have a good layer of paint left.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good/complete wax system(like meguiars mirror glaze products), lots of time/patience, very light preassure(basically just let the paper do the work and let your hand guide it over the surface and keep it in line) go side to side and then up and down(or vice versa) DON'T USE A SWIRL MOTION!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I feel like I've read this somewhere - word for word. So side to side AND up and down? Meguiars is uber expensive here. Everywhere I read + from what people are telling me, 3M makes the best compound. Any thoughts?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by broketuner-Sol_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done it before on my fenders and driverside door(although not nearly as much as I did on the fenders)...if orangepeel and defects are really noticeable, I'd start with 1000, do that for about 15-20min. per panel, then up it to 1500 for about 10-15min per panel and finally 2000 grit for 10 min....of course if it's not too bad you can start right with 1500.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's very obvious, but then again I'm noticing it on every car even if it isn't that intense so I might be Biased. What I'm worried about is that the paint is reletively fresh (got the car on Xmas eve) and I have the sneaking suspision that the rear of the rear of the del Sol is paint over paint. What should I do there?

 

I did a full cut and buff on my first sol, it took a month, and i still didnt get it perfect: the hardest thing is the fenders, and the trunk lid, targa, and hood.



See how the reflections are more crisp and it shines more?


Modified by solerizr at 11:51 AM 2/6/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solerizr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A.) It depends on if you want the orange peel gone, or you just wanna shine it up a lil.
And you go back and fort say, up and down with 1500, so all the "scratches" go up and down, then with 2000, you go side to side, so you can see when all the scratches from the 1500 are gone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So first 1500 side to side then 2000 up and down. I dunno how bad it is to you guys, but it's bugging the **** out of me.




<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solerizr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B.) And you gotta buff with a compound, i would use a 2 step buff system, where you buff with a light rubbing compund, the finish it off with a race glaze, then a hand wax WITH NO CLEANERS in it!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok I have no idea what "race glaze" is and a online tutorial said not to use wax if the paint is under 3 months old. Any ideas?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solerizr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a full cut and buff on my first sol, it took a month, and i still didnt get it perfect: the hardest thing is the fenders, and the trunk lid, targa, and hood.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the "Cut" in Cut n Buff? Why did it take a month? What about it isn't perfect?

 

so are we talking about wetsanding after a paint job or in general to clean up the paint??

i didnt think wetsanding was needed except after a paint job to get rid of orange peel. then compounds to buff extra to maintane. I need to go over our civic starting from step one for a full detail but want a porter cable first

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nicoleheartsSOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hahaha the actual maroon ish burgandy red color. </TD></TR></TABLE>

looks burgandy since it's night time. its stock milano red paint for now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno how bad it is to you guys, but it's bugging the **** out of me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

james i can see it and that would bug me too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by memphisraines26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so are we talking about wetsanding after a paint job or in general to clean up the paint??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Both. First I've got a spare fender, bumper and car (lol) to test my skills. After that I'm progressing to the del Sol which has a fresh paint job (I got her back Xmas Eve).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by memphisraines26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">james i can see it and that would bug me too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My old paint was wet sanded - the previous owner must have done it - So now it looks wrong to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by james p. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So first 1500 side to side then 2000 up and down. I dunno how bad it is to you guys, but it's bugging the **** out of me.

Ok I have no idea what "race glaze" is and a online tutorial said not to use wax if the paint is under 3 months old. Any ideas?

Whats the "Cut" in Cut n Buff? Why did it take a month? What about it isn't perfect?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your gonna have to get more agressive probably to take that orange peel out the way you want james.

Race glaze is just a polishing compound, rather than an abrasive, cutting compund.

"cut" = sanding off a layer or two.

Now, you will have to excuse me, its 60* out for the first time in months, im ditching class to be outside; bye.