DA Integra's Only
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H2B allows you to have an H-serries long block but still utilize stock b-serries drive train (mounts, transmission and axles)
advantages
better transmission options (itr/b16)
being able to use stock b-serries mounting locations (no cutting or welding)
having the option to go back to b-serries if you wish
best part.. A **** load of torque.
disadvantage just as knowledge said is the hood clearance. I have my hood tilted a good amount (don't remember the exact measurement)
If any of you DA owners are interested in running this set up; I talked to Bisi @ Bisimoto engineering & he said that he would create a DA specific kit if we could get a minimum of 10 people in a group buy.
If your thinking about going K; In my honest oppinion I would go H2B over a K-serries any day. For the price of a stock Kswap you can have a fully built H2B or a stock H2B for less than half. Not to mention less hastle. It's an easier swap & still gives you the option to go back to B. If you go K , there's no turning back once you cut the passenger mount and shifter mounting. Well with out major modifications
My friend disagrees. Which would you guys preffer?
![](http://pic80.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1022/3878140/22442592/372600693.jpg)
advantages
better transmission options (itr/b16)
being able to use stock b-serries mounting locations (no cutting or welding)
having the option to go back to b-serries if you wish
best part.. A **** load of torque.
disadvantage just as knowledge said is the hood clearance. I have my hood tilted a good amount (don't remember the exact measurement)
If any of you DA owners are interested in running this set up; I talked to Bisi @ Bisimoto engineering & he said that he would create a DA specific kit if we could get a minimum of 10 people in a group buy.
If your thinking about going K; In my honest oppinion I would go H2B over a K-serries any day. For the price of a stock Kswap you can have a fully built H2B or a stock H2B for less than half. Not to mention less hastle. It's an easier swap & still gives you the option to go back to B. If you go K , there's no turning back once you cut the passenger mount and shifter mounting. Well with out major modifications
My friend disagrees. Which would you guys preffer?
![](http://pic80.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1022/3878140/22442592/372600693.jpg)
Been working on my car a lot with my dad. Swapped in my LS finally. Changed the thermostat today. DAD TAUGHT ME. WOOT! Also sanded down my rusted hood and painted it with a spray can...color is black. Going to daily like that for awhile until i have some money to get a hood from the junkyard.
B*a*n*n*e*d
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wow i love when people tell us obvious information. if you look at post 1 of page 1 by Ron bergenholtz, he has an h22 DA. you think we've gone YEARS without knowing how it works? get a clue buddy.
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like I previously stated, I misread his question.
You are correct, H22 has been around for a long while but H2B is fairly new & not a popular swap compaired to k's or b's. So not everyone knows what it is or actually know how it works.
I wasn't trying to state the obvious but mainly trying to state the pros and cons and give my oppinion incase he was thinking of doing the swap. Which that was my understanding.
Was bergenholtz a complete H22 swap or h2b? I looked at the first page and didnt see any info on it
You are correct, H22 has been around for a long while but H2B is fairly new & not a popular swap compaired to k's or b's. So not everyone knows what it is or actually know how it works.
I wasn't trying to state the obvious but mainly trying to state the pros and cons and give my oppinion incase he was thinking of doing the swap. Which that was my understanding.
Was bergenholtz a complete H22 swap or h2b? I looked at the first page and didnt see any info on it
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im on my 3rd one wish i could afford to just keep one and restore it hopefully sometime soon ill find a clean one i can afford lol
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Brice is just taking advantage of an opportunity to engage in some keyboard-warriorism. You'll get used to it if you're around enough.
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H2B allows you to have an H-serries long block but still utilize stock b-serries drive train (mounts, transmission and axles)
advantages
better transmission options (itr/b16)
being able to use stock b-serries mounting locations (no cutting or welding)
having the option to go back to b-serries if you wish
best part.. A **** load of torque.
disadvantage just as knowledge said is the hood clearance. I have my hood tilted a good amount (don't remember the exact measurement)
If any of you DA owners are interested in running this set up; I talked to Bisi @ Bisimoto engineering & he said that he would create a DA specific kit if we could get a minimum of 10 people in a group buy.
If your thinking about going K; In my honest oppinion I would go H2B over a K-serries any day. For the price of a stock Kswap you can have a fully built H2B or a stock H2B for less than half. Not to mention less hastle. It's an easier swap & still gives you the option to go back to B. If you go K , there's no turning back once you cut the passenger mount and shifter mounting. Well with out major modifications
My friend disagrees. Which would you guys preffer?
advantages
better transmission options (itr/b16)
being able to use stock b-serries mounting locations (no cutting or welding)
having the option to go back to b-serries if you wish
best part.. A **** load of torque.
disadvantage just as knowledge said is the hood clearance. I have my hood tilted a good amount (don't remember the exact measurement)
If any of you DA owners are interested in running this set up; I talked to Bisi @ Bisimoto engineering & he said that he would create a DA specific kit if we could get a minimum of 10 people in a group buy.
If your thinking about going K; In my honest oppinion I would go H2B over a K-serries any day. For the price of a stock Kswap you can have a fully built H2B or a stock H2B for less than half. Not to mention less hastle. It's an easier swap & still gives you the option to go back to B. If you go K , there's no turning back once you cut the passenger mount and shifter mounting. Well with out major modifications
My friend disagrees. Which would you guys preffer?
not saying im gonna beat the **** out of it, but theres something comforting about not having a frankenstein motor... and also a six speed transmission. idk... i guess if budget is on your mind than h2b is the way to go... but if you go k your getting what you pay for.. in most cases a brand new motor and transmission and with a hondata k pro an easy 200 horses.
this is a bit biased because i believe when honda makes a motor they made it the right way and you dont go messing with the internals.
I still have respect for my b18a1... its a peppy little motor.. and gosh damn it has about 250k or more on it.
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Mechanical vtec > Intelligent vtec for me
And a 6 speed transmission is useless unless you're swapping a K into your daily driven stock EK for better gas mileage.
And a 6 speed transmission is useless unless you're swapping a K into your daily driven stock EK for better gas mileage.
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You don't have a frankenstein motor. You have a regular motor with a different transmission on it.
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There is only ONE drawback to the H2B setup (aside from hood clearance) and that is currently being addressed: the different tilt of the engine with the H2B swap makes the oil pan sit in an awkward position. It makes it hard to drain your oil and it can lead to oil starvation issues with a lot of g-force making the oil go to the front of the pan away from the pickup. Kaizenspeed is making an H2B specific oil pan that gets rid of this issue. Once that drops, H2B is issue free.
I'd take a stock H22A Type S longblock with a stock ITR transmission over a K-swap ALL DAY.
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ive only seen one person who had a k swapped da. That rhd orange one, but from what i remember it was ridiculously slow for some reason
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"It's not the arrow, it's the indian."
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i think the guy who built the car was driving, theres a video of it on youtube where he does a freeway pull, it pulls away like a stock LS hahaha
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Unless the dude was completely clueless about honda engines and granny shifting...
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either way, clueless or not, it was just a freeway pull, put the car into 4th or 3rd and push the gas. just search "rhd k20 da" on youtube, you'll see it
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"It's not the arrow, it's the indian."
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^I guess he just wanted to be the first one to do a K in a DA, nothing else mattered.
Yeah I think that's what it was, one of those K's from a base model USDM EP or RSX... Very LS like Heheh
Yeah I think that's what it was, one of those K's from a base model USDM EP or RSX... Very LS like Heheh
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That's what I was talking about in the first place. I think the guy that bought the car drag raced it and it ran a mediocre time. That's what happens when you have a shitty driver.
You're full of ****. It was a K20A2 from an RSX Type S.
From the builder's for sale thread:
There you go.
Don't believe everyone on the internet. Tons of false info from people...
From the builder's for sale thread:
-K20A2 Type S, 6spd tranny, 19k miles, RUNS PERFECT, ZERO PROBLEMS
-Matching valve cover to body as well as purple valve cover to match wheels
-RSX base axles, lifetime warranty
-Golden Eagle Mfg. fuel rail
-Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator
-DC 4-1 race header for K20 swap
-Custom K20 mounts, billet sections from HASport, steel brackets by me, GREAT axle pinion angle, clears hood and ground plenty
-RBC intake manifold
-Karcepts throttle body adapter plate
-Custom fabricated "tucked" engine harness all finished in heat shrink
-Koyo EP3 radiator with slim pusher fan
-Short ram intake and stainless mesh filter
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion exhaust (QUIET)
-Earl's black -6AN lines and fittings
-Earl's fuel filter
-Hondata K-Pro ECU with software
-COMPLETE DC Integra chassis harness, every sensor and light in cluster works
-Matching valve cover to body as well as purple valve cover to match wheels
-RSX base axles, lifetime warranty
-Golden Eagle Mfg. fuel rail
-Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator
-DC 4-1 race header for K20 swap
-Custom K20 mounts, billet sections from HASport, steel brackets by me, GREAT axle pinion angle, clears hood and ground plenty
-RBC intake manifold
-Karcepts throttle body adapter plate
-Custom fabricated "tucked" engine harness all finished in heat shrink
-Koyo EP3 radiator with slim pusher fan
-Short ram intake and stainless mesh filter
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion exhaust (QUIET)
-Earl's black -6AN lines and fittings
-Earl's fuel filter
-Hondata K-Pro ECU with software
-COMPLETE DC Integra chassis harness, every sensor and light in cluster works
Don't believe everyone on the internet. Tons of false info from people...