i have a 1992 civic Vx hatch and its giving me headaches since it wont pass smog due to the machine aborts it, since it loses power and always have to be gassing it, it passes at 10 mph but not at 25 since it doesn't hold a steady speed and idle. its my daily driver and daily headache any help is appreciated

 

clean Idle air control valve thoroughly, clean throttle body thoroughly (take out idle screw to clean it and the passages), clean ALL vehicle grounds...this usually requires you removing the bolt that is doing the grounding and with a wire brush scrub the bolt clean. One thing people can overlook when scrubbing bolts that come with a washer is to not get the area BETWEEN the bolt head and the washer. This area likes to get dirty and it's crucial for good contact since electricity flows from the bolt threads up to the bolt head, down the bolt head onto the washer and from the washer onto the eyelet which runs along a copper cable to whatever is being grounded. I know this helps because I did the electrical grounds on my car and it surprisingly improved the ohms to ground for the o2 sensor.

Oh, and REPLACE PCV VALVE.

 

http://www.k-series.com/content.php?824-Project

In on this...about the pick up a d15z1 this weekend for my CX. Rear diffuser came in today and I finished cleaning up a set of HX alloys!!! Heck of a start.

 

Okay, I have a question....I have a 1990 CRX HF. I believe it is the D15B6 engine.
One of the popular swaps is the D15Z1 engine. And I believe these will push low to mid 60s MPG in the CRX HF. However, I am having problems finding a Z1 engine setup. Would the Y5 be even better as far as MPG? The advantage I have is the engine turns about 2000 rpm @ 65mph. However, does that take the Y5 engine out of its power band and thus give it any trouble maintaining speed? The B6 torque peak is 2200rpm I think so I am close to the peak torque at freeway speeds which I have read is ideal for gas mileage. Any input would be great. 51.5 MPG was my last tank. But I drive 150miles/day. So, if I could get another 10-20MPG or more would make a big difference. Any of you checked out the aerocivic? He is 65-85 mpg depending on weather.

 

Doing a d15z1 swap on a CRX HF won't boost fuel economy if that is what you're looking for. The reason for this is that the CRX HF is already tuned for better fuel economy than the Civic VX from 1992-1995 and has the appropriate valve timing to boot. Do you have a California or federal CRX HF? The California HF gets a bit worse fuel economy than the federal HF and that's because of it's shorter geared transmission (3.25 final drive for Cali, 2.95 for Federal).

 

Hmmmm....There is a guy that has done a D15Z1 swap on a CRX and his gas mileage went into the 60's. I understand the VX civic did not get the mileage the CRX HF did. I think that is a product of transmission and aerodynamics. I think the CRX Z1 guys web site is www.crxmpg.com. I am not sure what the VX revs are at 65mph. But, I turn about 2000rpms. I think that is a large part of the mileage advantange. I believe the Z1 in lean burn mode could make a difference. The y5, which also has a lean burn, VTEC switches at 2300 rpm. From what little engine performace charts(stock) the VTEC normally shifts at or near peak torque for that cam lobe. So, I would think that would be good as that is where my B6 peak torque is. BTW: my CRX is 49 state. I know I am wanting even more mileage out of an already exceptional car..51.5mpg last week. I Normally get about 48-49. Recently went to royal purple in the transmission and Mobil 1 in the engine. I think that and warmer weather have raised it even further into the low 50's. Goal is 65-75 mpg. I want to add a nose like the Hondata speed record CRX and an underpan to help mileage even further. I drive 150/day. If I could get that distance in two gallons of fuel that would be great. Engine and aerodynamics are the key...I believe.

 

www.ecomodders.com and www.gassavers.org

 

Yea, ecomodder is the site I research most of this stuff on. I have my cars on there. It is neat how you can track your gas mileage. My CRX is named C REX GO on the site. Same id on that site as here.

 

If you do a steady cruise at 55mph on the highway, what fuel economy do you approximately get? That guy that did the VX swap into a CRX had a CRX DX and had also done a CX valve head into his CRX swap prior to the VX swap which btw reduced his fuel economy from stock so him now getting mpg in the 60s isn't too surprising. If the guy originally had an HF, then he would have no need to do the swap because the HF gets better fuel economy than the VX. If you have a 49 state HF and you're having trouble mustering over 50mpg and you're "hypermiling" the thing, then the car needs a major tuneup. Problem with a lot of mechanics is that they will not fix a car based on a drop in fuel economy unless it's extremely obvious.

 

ok guys im new on here and have owned a 96 civic hx for over 2 years now. bought at 153k and is now at 197k. the problem im having is that the second cyl injector went weak on me and i just ignored it for a while a later found out that it started to burn the rings up on that cylinder. it now had 155, 140, 20, 150 compression. today i bought a y8 complete engine except dizzy. now my ? is will the complete y8 engine work with my y5 harness?

 

I must have the vx with the worst gas mileage. I get 30 mpg, stock motor besides intake header and exhaust.

 

Why did you buy a complete Y8? Just use the bottom end and keep the rest and you'll be good to go.. Start mixing and matching parts and all you'll be left with is a headache..

 

That is horrible fuel economy for a vx. What is the RPM of the engine when cruising at 55mph? Possibly the car is out of tune and you had the transmission swapped.

 

see i got a decent deal on the complete motor w/low miles and second i want to build the y5 and boost it while i have it out. if i had a second car i would swap the blocks but it the daily.

 

I'm pretty sure the transmission is stock, its high geared just like my y5 was. It does burn oil so probably the tune etc.

 

My point is you can't just swap in a Y8 engine.. You'll have to change the harness, o2 sensors, ecu, etc. That is why I said to keep things simple and just replace the bottom end. The engine setup in a y8 is similar but has enough changes to give you a headache and make your head spin. Most important thing that will be different is the dizzy on the Y5. Either do a FULL SWAP or just keep it simple and replace the bottom end.. I mean you could go as far as replacing the block and valve head and retain everything else but I don't recommend it.

 

theres no need to change the harness. all the plugs are the same, vtec is my worry. im just wondering if vtec will be constantly on or hit 2800 or 5500 where it normally hits in a y8. if vtec doesnt work im fine with that bc the engine will be running and im jus swaping this in untill the y5 build is complete.

 

Pros I need help advise and suggestion, I own a 96 4dr A/t honda civic vtec vti (ph16a on engine-philippines) I'm lookin for parts here in the USA, im not sure if its a d16Y5 USA engine code or what, so I could replace the timing belts, pistons, and etc. what is the US version of my civic and compatibility need help , here is the link similar to my car: thank you, pls. copy and paste (prices in the philippines way to overpriced)

http://www.sulit.com.ph/index.php/vi...nda+Civic+vtec

 

That is not true at all. For one thing, the Y5 uses a wide band o2 sensor, has a different distributor plug has an EGR plug and a few other extra things that the Y8 doesn't have. Using a Y8 ECU, manifold, sensors etc. on a Y5 engine will not yield results that one would expect and will cause the engine to switch into vtec much too late. Either do a full swap or you don't because anything in between will yield half assed results and be totally pointless.

 

hi i have a d16y5, can anyone show me where the speed sensor wire is on the ecu? thanks!

 

I have a civic vx, too! Shiet, has never left me stranded!

 

well not to burst anyones bubble but the swap has been done and i now have a running y8 longblock with everything else including the ecu from the y5 and vtec hits at 2800 - 3200 depending on the amount of pressure on the accelerator and stays activated all the way to 7800 (rev limit) but i do have a problem with it bobbing in and out about 2 - 4 times when it reaches 5000, kind of like a slight misfire but not as harsh. also when i first got the hx vtec would only switch over at 5000 and it was both stages at once so it was extreme switch until i got a new noid so i know about it switching over way too late.

swap as it runs now-
98 d16y8 long block
96 hx dizy, ecu and harness
96 hx transmission with exedy stage1 clutch and 7lbs fidanza flywheel
headman headers 4,2,1 ebay 2.5" straight pipe to hks knockoff axleback

chassis-
integra front suspension swap with ebay adjustable coils (even 3.75" height)
rear integra struts with ebay adjustable coils

 

i would see if you could find a swap because the rarity of the system.
i can not find anything on the engine in the us.

 

is the y8 still running? from what i know about vtec-e you are probably running very lean up to the first vtec point then when you switch to the 4 valve map you are probably still a little lean (running a 'true' vtec cam when the ecu thinks its just in 4 valve) then when you switch to the final cams map in the ecu you finally are in the neighborhood, except that the whole time you have been running on undersized injectors. do you have a wideband (friend with wideband)?

 

yo i wanna be in this squad haha. check out my car here... and let me be number #35

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/389406...oupe-2d/page-1