** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Logged on to say this:
Took the words right out of my mouth.
Thank you portfl0w and SpAdam for putting the myth of "camber kits are not necessary" to rest.
With a lowered car you still have to maintain proper suspension geometry and travel otherwise you mess what the engineers at the factory spent hours designing. Modify cars right the first time
Btw Portflow, at what height is your car lowered to?
Took the words right out of my mouth.
Thank you portfl0w and SpAdam for putting the myth of "camber kits are not necessary" to rest.
With a lowered car you still have to maintain proper suspension geometry and travel otherwise you mess what the engineers at the factory spent hours designing. Modify cars right the first time
Btw Portflow, at what height is your car lowered to?
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Lol what? These cars have shocks, and no car has both at the same end
But yeah a blown shock tends to let the spring over travel a bit and can cause rubbing.
Doubt it. But the washer "trick" is not rocket science. Go to Ace and get some 10mm washers. Stack them behind your upper control arm in the back until the camber is where you want it. Then replace the bolts with four M10x1.25 bolts that are longer than the originals by the thickness of your washer stack - if you only used a couple of washers just reuse the stock bolts. Set toe. Go out for tacos.
The rear on the 96-00 chassis has a pretty aggressive camber curve, they gain a lot more camber than the 92-95 chassis when lowered. But if you're tearing up tires back there the first thing I would take a close look at is your trailing arm bushings.
But yeah a blown shock tends to let the spring over travel a bit and can cause rubbing.
all this talk about camber! I've got to find that write up for the rear camber washer trick. I would like to reduce the camber I have in the rear. front seems fine, except my last set of tires wore prematurely on the outside edges... I'm assuming I have toe in that needs to be fixed? or is that a sign of toe out? from a purely visual perspective they look normal. I also think it could be because my triangulated strut bar is pushing the towers out ? any advice on that matter?
The rear on the 96-00 chassis has a pretty aggressive camber curve, they gain a lot more camber than the 92-95 chassis when lowered. But if you're tearing up tires back there the first thing I would take a close look at is your trailing arm bushings.
Honda-Tech Member
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Actually one of the really cool aspects about our cars is the fact that you don't really need to run much static camber. The negative camber actually increases in compression (and hence roll) due to the SLA design of the front suspension. This is camber rise. The position of the upper ball joint actually accelerates in the horizontal direction and decelerates in the vertical direction as the uca rotates toward the vertical position, increasing camber at an increasing rate. At the same time (at stock ride height) the lca starts out below horizontal so the lower ball joint moves outward as it heads toward horizontal, increasing this effect. Once the lca passes horzontal and the lbj starts to head inwards though, the returns are quickly diminishing.
Anyways, my point is that if its a little extra camber that you want in the corners, the suspension does the work for you. While a camber kit or stock alignment might not be required, anything other than factory settings are definitely not ideal for where you do 99% of your driving. The manufacturers put a lot of effort into planning out where those wheels are supposed to be at any given point in time, and really any mod of this type should be really not be taken as lightly as it is. There is, however, a ton of anecdotal evidence out there that says that most of the time you will be fine.
Another thing is that street tires are simply not designed for being used with much camber. Competition tires are design with a narrow window of where it should be. BUT competition setups should never be compared with street setups. When you setup a car for the track, the only things that are considered are the maximums (with a little nod to transitionals as the modeling technology has allowed). There is no need for any steady state consideration. If a track car is not accelerating (forward, backward, or laterally) at its maximum capability, then its out of its design envelope and the setup is abitrary. A street car has entirely different (and actually far more complex) requirements.
The problem is that the car manufacturer, the tire manufacturer, so on and so forth down to the monkey at Firestone who aligns your car have a moral and professional obligation to never accept the terms of "most of the time." The primary design element of any mechanical system, above any other design requirement, is always SAFETY. If anyone gets hurt do to telling you that its okay to install aftermarket equipment or change your alignment setting *****-nilly, they're as responsible for that injury as if they spec'd the car's airbags to be filled with razor blades when it was built.
I love modifying cars. I don't agree, however, with the culture of "tons of other people get away with it, so its fine." Everyone who modifies a car should, in my opinion, take it upon themselves to educate themselves on what they are working on, and if they don't FULLY understand what it is that they are doing and what the trade offs are, they shouldn't touch it.
Anyways, my point is that if its a little extra camber that you want in the corners, the suspension does the work for you. While a camber kit or stock alignment might not be required, anything other than factory settings are definitely not ideal for where you do 99% of your driving. The manufacturers put a lot of effort into planning out where those wheels are supposed to be at any given point in time, and really any mod of this type should be really not be taken as lightly as it is. There is, however, a ton of anecdotal evidence out there that says that most of the time you will be fine.
Another thing is that street tires are simply not designed for being used with much camber. Competition tires are design with a narrow window of where it should be. BUT competition setups should never be compared with street setups. When you setup a car for the track, the only things that are considered are the maximums (with a little nod to transitionals as the modeling technology has allowed). There is no need for any steady state consideration. If a track car is not accelerating (forward, backward, or laterally) at its maximum capability, then its out of its design envelope and the setup is abitrary. A street car has entirely different (and actually far more complex) requirements.
The problem is that the car manufacturer, the tire manufacturer, so on and so forth down to the monkey at Firestone who aligns your car have a moral and professional obligation to never accept the terms of "most of the time." The primary design element of any mechanical system, above any other design requirement, is always SAFETY. If anyone gets hurt do to telling you that its okay to install aftermarket equipment or change your alignment setting *****-nilly, they're as responsible for that injury as if they spec'd the car's airbags to be filled with razor blades when it was built.
I love modifying cars. I don't agree, however, with the culture of "tons of other people get away with it, so its fine." Everyone who modifies a car should, in my opinion, take it upon themselves to educate themselves on what they are working on, and if they don't FULLY understand what it is that they are doing and what the trade offs are, they shouldn't touch it.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
I'm guessing that comment was for me. I did not belittle anyone and simply stated facts. You were the one who originally interjected and made the comment that camber kits were not necessary and that it was extreme to state they were necessary. Yet, here you are. So curious about camber all of the sudden. Perhaps you should educate yourself before making bold statements, in essence, negating what someone who does understand the topic had said. You never asked any good questions. All of them were vague which is why I chose not to even entertain your immature enquiries. Quit acting like a tough guy and contribute. If you're going to leech, please respect others and bite your tongue.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Logged on to say this:
Took the words right out of my mouth.
Thank you portfl0w and SpAdam for putting the myth of "camber kits are not necessary" to rest.
With a lowered car you still have to maintain proper suspension geometry and travel otherwise you mess what the engineers at the factory spent hours designing. Modify cars right the first time
Btw Portflow, at what height is your car lowered to?
Took the words right out of my mouth.
Thank you portfl0w and SpAdam for putting the myth of "camber kits are not necessary" to rest.
With a lowered car you still have to maintain proper suspension geometry and travel otherwise you mess what the engineers at the factory spent hours designing. Modify cars right the first time
Btw Portflow, at what height is your car lowered to?
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
To clarify on my previous comment about shocks. Since our shocks are combined with the springs, they cannot be removed without the car sagging, but the geometry won't collapse. It will just sit on the ground. If the shock and spring were seperate, the shock could be removed. Again, a strut is a integral part of the suspension and plays two roles. Damping and structural support.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Nice ride, Broke! I didn't know you had a sedan. I thought you had a coupe for some reason. Nice! Welcome, man.
Honda-Tech Member
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
I'm guessing that comment was for me. I did not belittle anyone and simply stated facts. You were the one who originally interjected and made the comment that camber kits were not necessary and that it was extreme to state they were necessary. Yet, here you are. So curious about camber all of the sudden. Perhaps you should educate yourself before making bold statements, in essence, negating what someone who does understand the topic had said. You never asked any good questions. All of them were vague which is why I chose not to even entertain your immature enquiries. Quit acting like a tough guy and contribute. If you're going to leech, please respect others and bite your tongue.
I did not post any personal attacks until you called me crazy . You're not even worth my time so this will be my last reply to you. Hope you open your mind sometime and chill out, not everyone's out to attack your opinions.
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
To be honest, I have no clue. When I had my suspension adjusted, I had the tech who performed the alignment set them to the lowest the manufacturer of the shocks recommended. I could measure if you'd like. Just give me a spot to measure. [/QUOTE]
No rush, whenever you have the time
If possible, measure the sleeves on your coil overs or the distance of the top of your tire and fenders F/R.
Also include tire profile (40/45/50) and rim diameter.
Thanks
Your car has the perfect height, I don't care for slammed cars.
I have my ground controls set to a two inch drop all around on my 96 Civic on 205/45/16 tires.
Btw, I love your sig...knowing how a cars particular suspension works goes a long way in improving ride quality and handling
No rush, whenever you have the time
If possible, measure the sleeves on your coil overs or the distance of the top of your tire and fenders F/R.
Also include tire profile (40/45/50) and rim diameter.
Thanks
Your car has the perfect height, I don't care for slammed cars.
I have my ground controls set to a two inch drop all around on my 96 Civic on 205/45/16 tires.
Btw, I love your sig...knowing how a cars particular suspension works goes a long way in improving ride quality and handling
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Sometimes the fenders aren't exactly in the same spot, though. Some may be tweaked. I always thought from the floor to the front and rear jack points was good.
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: DREAMWERKZ_garage, souff CHINA
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Dont forget tire sizes too. And yes some fenders are tweaked, but so are some tow hook locations/jack points because of collisions. And not all pavements are perfectly leveled. So to sum it up, center of hub to fenders would be most accurate.
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
The way i measure it is the center cap of the rim to the fender....(not sure if thats a correct way of doing it)
soo sad.. i might need to replace my rear right coilover lol
soo sad.. i might need to replace my rear right coilover lol
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Schaumburg, IL, USA
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: ** The offical 96-00 civic 4dr thread ** PART 2
Sean