yungmulacrx

Well its been a long time coming and I can say I am somewhat pleased with the results. It's been a work in progress for some years. There are some things I can improve but for now I'm just glad it's done for now. We did run into some ignition break up on some of the final pulls which you can see on the graph. And as always there is room for improvement but should be hitting the track shortly to see what it can run in a heavy *** accord. He
So here's the details
94 accord coupe
Sleeved h22 block and crank
Manley rods arp bolts
Cp pistons
Arp head studs
Oem Honda head gasket
Stock port head
Ferrea 6000 series valves
Super tech 93lb spring and retainers
Type s cams
Euro r intake manifold
KS tuned bs delete
Brms top Mount t4 manifold
2x tial 44mm gates
Borg warner s360 .88 ar exhaust housing
2' of 3in down pipe
2.5" ic piping with precision 600hp ic
Walbro 450 pump
Fid 1600cc injectors
Aem fuel rail with roskos adapter
Hondata s300v2
E50 fuel
Cc twin disc
M2b4 trans running 235/50/15 toyo r888s
Would like to give a thanks to Kenny dangler and rosko for helping me out along the way

Car made 449tq and 593hp on 20 lbs on a dynapak

solo227

I see you were speaking from experience... lol

Nice power..

yungmulacrx

Yes and I think she still has some left in here

solo227

Alot left. Your displacement gonna help alot making more power. Up around 30lbs you should be well over 650..

yungmulacrx

15 lbs made 504hp but I think i need a bigger plenum intake cause torque falls off up top

extremeracer

The Torque with the H22 is nice !

yungmulacrx

now I think the trans is a ticking time bomb lol heavy *** car doesn't help but she moves for now

ESP.net

Like to see H22 builds makes me want to see what mine will do past 15 psi shortly I think your intake mani should be fine for a bit more... run that as well... Above 600 hp is where seems stock ignition/dizzy like to become finicky... coil pack time...

T46266 h23v built motor, JE 9-1, H23 Crower Rods, m2b4, type s cams, euro r intake mani, 68tb 1150cc Grams, pump....ferrea 6k, ST v.s./retainer 93 lbs, 340 aero intank, 67% duty cycle at 500 hp 15 psi (old t46266 crapped out) hoping for larger numbers 2nd time around...cc twin, Bottom Mount Synapse, 60mm tial...stock ign/dizzy
550 hp and matching 400+ trq always a gamble on the stock trans...

Balor_Gr

Is there a reason for the so early redline?
Dont get me wrong but with a H22 im expecting either a monster power or monster torqueband.This setup seems to be lacking both. 5800 to 8000 isnt a torqueband id like with h22.Imo that turbo isnt quite a good choice
and that 67/76 mm turbine wheel likes high boost or high rpm or both.Also i believe .88 is only single scroll so you must be .91 a/r (?).
Is it with the 60 or the 63mm compressor?

With a 62/69 turbine s200sx(e) series turbo you will fall in love with your car.
Unless you give it a good +1000 rpm to the redline.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Any pictures of the car?

yungmulacrx

looking back on it yes I would've choose a s200 series but it is what it is. Exhaust housing is a .88 single scroll or open however you want to put it. It is the 60mm compressor. It was took to 8100 on the dyno but it is taken to 8500 on the street. I actually might turn it up more which shouldn't be an issue. But torque falls off up top,which I think is from the intake manifold.

yungmulacrx

it's by far not the best looking car.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

T4 Open Housing in a .88A/R is how we'd put it. "Single Scroll" makes no sense because even a divided housing that size isn't a "twin Scroll" anyway.
Just for your edification.

motoxxxman

being a prelude specialist, I'll tell you that turbo is actually matched fairly nicely to your setup, and will be even better matched once you upgrade a few things.
to start, the torque dropping off is totally normal. yes it largely is due to the intake manifold, but is also due to the cams, and lack of port matching or any porting.
a simple port matching and port smoothing will help a decent amount.
a bit larger cams will help a good amount. or in the least, a set of adjustable gears on those type s cams. If you get gears, I'd say start with exhaust at 0, and retard the intake a few degrees. That'll remove some overlap and shift the powerband a little higher in the rpms, aka flatten the torque curve a little.
For the intake manifold, the euro R is designed for awesome midrange torque and decent top end power. but for low boost and n/a. You'd be much better off with a hogged out h22 manifold. that would level it right out.

Balor_Gr

Look:
-There are guys that dont know a lot and rev/boost their motor to super high numbers cause someone did on the web and think thats ok.These guys dont know the danger is there and will push boost/rpm etc
to the limit.Most of the times something goes wrong soon or later.
-The guys that know what theyre doing and the technical danger behind it but still push the limits of their setup.Thats the crazy people that are addicted to the "max".They want every last drop of power and performance.
You can call them mad_max .
-And there are people that know what their doing and want everything to be close to perfect to push further.If you belong here like me
ill tell you thats totaly acceptable for me to be cautious about reving that 1.58 r/s h22 motor above 8500.
I dont know what other people tried but ill tell you this.Some airwerks turbine wheels arent much if at all better from the old T3,T4 turbine wheels.
Some of them are lazy spoolers but do the job when paired with a 9000+++ rpm high boost engine creating VERY good top end because of the minimal back pressure.
In my brain even a t4 divided 1.00 1.15 ptrim / 60-1 would work better. Shodan might elaborate.

The turbo/turbine housing you chose is a drag racer for a smaller engine in my humble opinion.And i will have to disagree with the motoxxxman above.
I would put that turbo on a build/sleeved big cam b16 that revs to 9800 that cant get e85 but the owner wants every last bit of power on average octane fuel.
Id put the same turbo on a 6 cylinder s50 engine.

I wouldnt spend on the engine head/cams unless you plan on revving at least 9000.
And if you want to keep the redline low id get the .91 or the 1.00 divided housing since you allready have 2 tial 44mm and a divided manifold
The car will be more roll race friendly and more enjoyable on the streets.
This is not a gutted race only EG so you need some friendlier powerband on the street.
Other than that the the newer s200 sxe billet 57 mm bw turbo is dirt cheap and delivers 65lbs.Get that on a 1.15 or 1.22 housing.Imo you will hit the same torque numbers
like 1000 rpm sooner but with a little higher boost for the same top end. If you were a real life pal id bet some cash on something like 350lbft at like 4200.
And sudenly you start to enjoy the car.

yungmulacrx

It's not a divided manifold. One gate would creep so another was added. Yes there are better options out there and I am aware of that.

TravisBiggie

whats the compression?

a buddies sleeved h22a with a hx40 (similiar to the s360) make 506hp 380 tq on 19 psi with 9:1 compression

motoxxxman

Allow me to elaborate on what I said above. That turbo is a great match for your setup, and for future engine mods, and is perfectly suited for a street car, and is excellent for straight line top acceleration. A smaller turbo would be better for a FUN street car, in that it would spool sooner and faster and make more noises at part throttle acceleration, but it would also increase the amount the tq drops off in the end. Keep in mind, if you increase the efficiency of the intake system, there will be more exhaust volume, which will usually help spool your current turbo sooner and/or faster. And even given your current torque curve, shifting at 8k-8300 will drop the next gear right about to the peak torque area anyhow, so there's no downside to the current turbo or claims of it being too big.
My suggestion is get an h22 manifold and hog it out Rosko Racing style, or just buy from Rosko. That will make the biggest difference in top end vs the euro R mani. A set of turbo cams will help flatten it out even more, and could increase the entire tq curve a bit too without even increasing boost. Being a street car, find a set of turbo cams that has a stock or near-stock low-cam profile, for cruising comfort.
*my 2 cents

also, the fact you're using e50 is helping with spool too. if you go e85 it'd help even more.

yungmulacrx

10-10.5

Prelude Type O

Incredible build! Thanks for sharing! Let's see some pulls

yungmulacrx

Toyo r888s and a not so prepped track. Trap speed is good but times are not sure good

ESP.net

Shes a spinnnnnnin down low bad what trap says... Need the following Slicks, Traction Bar System or wont be going no where fast and Motor Mount Kit
Hit me up if need a Traction Bar System Email is in the picture.

spoolinlude

Nice setup, always glad to see another h22 that isn't in a civic or integra making power