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I’ve got some carbon synchros that need changing when I get around to swapping engines. At least need to do the 3-4 and sleeve, 1-2 was done more recently when I had it apart to do the diff and is still solid. It’s shocking how fast 3-4 went off the cliff though.
Synchrotech MTF has been great for me with the Quaife. Not sure how it will work with a clutch/plate diff or high hp though.
I’ve got some carbon synchros that need changing when I get around to swapping engines. At least need to do the 3-4 and sleeve, 1-2 was done more recently when I had it apart to do the diff and is still solid. It’s shocking how fast 3-4 went off the cliff though.
Synchrotech MTF has been great for me with the Quaife. Not sure how it will work with a clutch/plate diff or high hp though.
I stopped by sychrotech recently to pick up their rtf and the employee there told me the off the shelf mtf is what i should stick with with the racing i do and their metal plate lsd.
With having the lsd in the trans its a toss up of what you want to protect more. The mtf is the better choice over rtf
Nice day, washed the silvia. Gotta fix wiring on the 240, old power wires supplying the coils have disintegrated for the 4th time. Todays a good day to make a new circuit. Next weekend is slidewayz at the zoo.
Car has been doing good. Was able to lower the traction bar, moving things further from the exhaust.
Rebuilt the trans before autobahn. Didnt look at the pilot bearing. Fully seized. Caused some wear at autobahn. It hurt 5th, so rebuilt after autobahn again. Feels great now!
Got real dash working, talking on the canbus.
Last event of the year this weekend, Pittsburgh International Race Complex.
If anyone wants to hang out or spectate I've got 2 crew passes I can give away. Just let me know. Wampum PA this weekend, fri sat sun.
Looks really good mang. Dash setup in the din location is nice. Ive been undecided if i wanted to get a display setup in the dash. Or good ole fashion gauge pillar. Leaning towards the pillar
I also have a seized pilot bearing in the flywheel. Thought it would be okay. Guess ill be reworking it, while the tranny is off again
Trans doing good so far this weekend. 3 sessions yesterday car ran great. Tapped 215 during final session of the day but turned on cabin heat and sat at around 205 the rest of the session.
After the last session yesterday I changed the cooling fans to always be on. Not sure how much that helped. Also started with cabin heat on this morning. It was about 50-55 ambient and the car never went over 205 mostly staying around 200.
Been running ok lap times. First time at this track. Started doing 2:10s and doing 2:03s now. Trying to get under 2min. Still gotta figure out what is keeping me from having a functioning boost controller but not doing that today. So still at around 8psi. Seat time more important. Being able to run long sessions at pace is helping.
Random pics nothing great...
Made an inverter battery pack out of harbor freight packout box, old surveillance batteries, and an extra odyssey pc680...lol
Heres an example. Map is red. More large spikes mean Im driving harder, in boost more. Yellow is intake air temp. Pretty much flatlines. Oil is blue, also flatlines. Green is coolant, not too bad. Cools quick. Still got some work to do to get 200 more hp tho I feel.
But feeling good about the progress made! Best running turbo civic I have been involved with.
Car feeling good. Tried hp+ on day one. On polymatrix today. Trying to find pads with enough power that dont make so much heat or eat rotors as fast. Tires have best grip laps 2-4 then grease up a bit. Still fun to keep sending tho. Final hot tire pressures about 32. I feel like they grip more with less pressure. Might try less. Tire wear looks good. Batteries are dead in the temp gauge so no tire temp data except hand feels.
This track is soo fun. I cant wait to do all these tracks again next season. Still, one more day tomorrow, hope no rain. Sending it either way. Last gridlife of the year for me. Might try to get another track day in somewhere tho. Still a few drift days left on the calendar at least.
Keep the car in one piece for one more day and next year we get the boost up!
So many changes to the car since last year. Quick update!
Good shot sometime this summer, July/Aug maybe
At Lime Rock Park I had the oil cap break apart on track, on cool down lap I'm thinking, since there wasn't soo so much oil everywhere.
Thanks to Evan Mclaren, who gave me this Acuity cap, I was able to keep racing.
Finally decided a thicker, dual-pass radiator could be a solution to the cooling issues I still had. It seems to be working!
The first event to try the radiator was Autobahn Country Club. Well, the passenger ball joint threads couldn't take anymore and completely let go. Thankfully I ended up in a field and not a wall (or a fellow driver's door)
Carnage wasn't as bad as it looked.
Ball joint threads gone
Rim was toast. Luckily I had two more. But I had to make a quick drive to South Bend IN Tire Rack for a new tire , and ended up just doing 2 new tires on my other 2 new backup rims.
Spent all day saturday fixing the car. Replaced the inner tie rod, bent the steering rack shaft back to center to remove the binding I got, hammered the fender back into shape, and the side skirt back into shape.
Meh. Racecar.
So I fight all day saturday to fix the suspension, go out for 1 session on sunday, get off track and had a HORRIBLE ticking noise from the head. I was so over the weekend issues, packed it up and took it home.
Once I got home I opened the VC and found the rocker seats on a few of them were loose, and 2 were so loose the threads were gone completely. yay. So I had to helicoil those. They seem to be holding up now.
In prep for pitt-race, I tried to fix the suspension geometry. I did front lower extended ball joints. I added a front sway bar (long time comin!!, I had to swap out the lower arm sections from my other EX civic, because my CX arms didn't have the mount holes for the endlinks). I made my own adjustable tie rod ends using the truhart reverse tie rod ends and some custom hardware. My homie Brant lathe'd me out some tapered washers to fit in the ball joint recess to allow me to use a bolt (similar to the PCI adjustable tie rod design, but with better heim joints).
Then for the rear I added PCI spherical trailing arm bushings And made my own version of the Honed rear geometry correction kit. I spent $12 on steel at Menards, and spent a half day making my own. Stupid easy to make. Offset my holes outward a tad, simulating a 'shortened' LCA, so my trailing arm bushings now clear the body by a few mil instead of constantly rubbing into my chassis making horrible noise and wear. Feels good so far. Car is street tested and seems good to go for this weekend.
The whole rocker setup on the non-vtec heads always makes me nervous, and I always keep the revs pretty low because of it (limiter @7500). How far are you revving yours?
Wow, lots of wear. Glad your safe and car was overall still intact
Thanks!
Originally Posted by spAdam
The whole rocker setup on the non-vtec heads always makes me nervous, and I always keep the revs pretty low because of it (limiter @7500). How far are you revving yours?
Currently its at 7800. I did have it at 7400 for a while. But yeah they are sketch af. I removed the rockers without removing the cams (obviously I left the head on too) when I made the repairs. Getting them out with just a flathead is too easy... Stuffed oil feed with gauze and used an oil vac to suck all the particles out. Lazy sketch repair but seems fine. Oil pressure still normal. All the threads that came off went somewhere tho :/ oh well keep sending it lol
Last edited by theYBLEGAL; Oct 13, 2025 at 02:15 PM.
Currently it’s at 7800. I did have it at 7400 for a while. But yeah they are sketch af. I removed the rockers without removing the cams (obviously I left the head on too) when I made the repairs. Getting them out with just a flathead is too easy... Stuffed oil feed with gauze and used an oil vac to suck all the particles out. Lazy sketch repair but seems fine. Oil pressure still normal. All the threads that came off went somewhere tho :/ oh well keep sending it lol
I got that issue solved adding a bit of red loctite to the rocker arm nuts after doing the valve lash adjustments. Not a single issue after that reving the engine to 8K rpm.
I got that issue solved adding a bit of red loctite to the rocker arm nuts after doing the valve lash adjustments. Not a single issue after that reving the engine to 8K rpm.
That makes me feel good. The ones that were loose did indeed get loctite on them. I didn't take all of them out tho. But def will keep an eye on it.
8k is still crazy. The fact I can use a flathead to compress the arm and then pull it out of the assembly just tells me with the right kind of floaty bounce, it could do that on its own 😬
But I'm here! On track tomorrow AM 🤘
That makes me feel good. The ones that were loose did indeed get loctite on them. I didn't take all of them out tho. But def will keep an eye on it.
8k is still crazy. The fact I can use a flathead to compress the arm and then pull it out of the assembly just tells me with the right kind of floaty bounce, it could do that on its own 😬
But I'm here! On track tomorrow AM 🤘
Yeah, I love the instant power of the non vtec setup but there are a few downsides. That’s why I get a GSR head for my new build, shooting for 800 🐎.
Wow, awesome work man.
Tig is something isn't it? I'm learning, too. Sure makes you respect the welds we see out there, say, like on your manifold.
My old Neukin is all cracked up, fixed it once already. Need something new, I like the way a mini ram looks and spools, but I don't want to deal with how low it places the turbo. My drain is home made,1 inch ID with some big *** Gates blue silicone hose and I can flood the turbo with oil, never backfills. it's oil cooled only so I let it drink.
I may go top mount this time, just street hotrod.
I fight heat like everyone I guess, only in Texas Funny, I had started with just a baffle like you showed on your ol B16 setup. It helped alot! Then I got some of the aluminum stuff that everyone seems to have found before me. There's a little welder thing that's used that makes some pretty sweet fastenings of that stuff, but they use a stainless form of sheeting. What did Lavigne use? I see welds on his.
I am running the Valvoline synchromesh with my fresh brass rebuild and it works well.
You're having lots of fun at an early age, good on ya!
Sick build man. Just read through it. I’ve noticed sleeved blocks almost always run on the hotter side. Excited to see where this goes as the build progresses.
Re: YBLEGAL's B20 Time Attack Build
yeah. I'll be there this year though!
Funny, I had started with just a baffle like you showed on your ol B16 setup. It helped alot! Then I got some of the aluminum stuff that everyone seems to have found before me. There's a little welder thing that's used that makes some pretty sweet fastenings of that stuff, but they use a stainless form of sheeting. What did Lavigne use? I see welds on his.
