You have a traction bar on the current setup? Just to the rails or bolted to the lcas also? You do not want to use a traction bar for road racing

 

Also from this view why is the downpipe so close to the radiator? From this angle i would move the wastegate over towards the driver side. They get extremely hot and thats transferring right into your radiator core.

 

Id say go for this approach. Mine is working very well so far. Is this still a “street car” or do you need to keep the hvac under the dash for rules?

Why not flip the turbo around and youll be able to move the downpipe away from the radiator and also have more room to route your drain line.

 

There is conjecture both ways. But with how little my suspension compresses, the caster isn't skewed hardly if any. I tried it, and I personally like it. I feel like the car has a better feel exiting corners, more direct.

I've got some spherical front lcas (truhart) that will go on eventually as well. Limit torquesteer as much as possible.

Its bolted to the lcas as well, its being used yes.

 

The exhaust manifold was purchased about 4 years ago for my b16 build. Its been poached for this project now. Additionally my ramhorn's wastegate turn extension was a point of failure on that build in the past. So I opted to make that as short as possible.

​​​​I'm not modifying it until it is an ultimate roadblock. There are plenty other avenues to explore before going to that extreme. Basic ducting and heat shields need installed and tested first.

 

I thought you guys were doing the same. 👍

Yeah for streetmod hvac stuff required.

I forget why rotating the turbo 180 won't work, I think the cold side ends up hitting the block or something. I remember trying but only for a half sec because it was so far obstructed.

 

Gotcha

That manifold is 4 years old?? It looks brand new! My setup didnt over heat on low boost. Once i cranked it up to over 350whp is when the heat issues popped up.


The compressor housing might be hitting the block by the transmission. Ive got a ton of posts in the chat thread with the side heat exchangers

 

4 years old sitting on a shelf

NOS lol. I've got a lot of that.

I've got a lot of projects to do yet...

 

What's the difference between the b20v1s and b20v2?

 

The pic is slightly old. Maybe January.

B20V1 ended up as the B20V-ITBs, 13:1, BC Stage 3 cams, Toda ITBs.
B20V2 was going to be an exact clone as a backup race motor. But due to lack of power, B20V2 is this current turbo setup.

B16B will be a good one, it's sleeved, o-ring'd, with a forged crank/girdle. High HP power goals. Doing that one for a friend.

The D16 is almost done, going in my friend's car now.

The B16A is the motor for my EK coupe, my original ej8 civic I got in 2003, jdm b16 swapped in 2004, to be turbo mild HP high mpg daily-ish.

 

For you ek chassis or similar owners...for bbg wiring...if you dont have AC anymore you have a spare 4p by the driver headlight. The blue/white is 12v with the key on. The blue/red is the AC control wire that runs back to the ECU. Repin the blue/red into your ground-switched pwm bbg control pin on your ecu. Then adapt an ac harness to your mac solenoid by the headlight. Tada cleanest easiest bbg wiring yet.

Bonus points! You can steal your secondary o2 sensor's connector to get your male side 4p connector!

 

Ive changed almost every connector to a deutsch 2 thru 12 pin. Theyre so much easier to work with

 

My harness is still in good shape, but yeah any new disconnects get deutsch connectors. Oil pressure, bosch knock, triggers.

I also do security and network installs. So when I can repurpose good existing infrastructure that makes the job more efficient. Back trace a few wires, you're good to go.

I reused the oem distributor plug for cop repatched at the ecu side in my adapter harness so I can revert back to my backup motor that still uses a dizzy by simple plug and play.
​​​​​


Engine bay staying way cooler..intake manifold slightly warm vs hot. Progress. Just some test pieces for now. Test theory


Might do a track day next weekend and get some actual testing in

 

NICE! Link me to that heat shield you used for the radiator in front of the fan.

I just reinstalled my radiator shroud too. I have an engine bay temp sensor and on my last couple drives it was reading 140-160f degrees every time the fan kicked on. With the shroud it stays around 100degrees. The shrouding definitely makes a difference

 

Hmm I might need to reinstall a shroud. I should prob also duct tape or heat tape the gap between my ic and rad since they are basically the same size.

By shroud you mean a plate that the fan mounts to that forces all air thru the fan right? I would term my heat shield thing a duct i guess.

When I talked to Al at race louvers he convinced me to take the shroud off. Says its good for a car thats stationary but for lapping dont use it. Never hurts to test tho!

Those are low engine bay temps. I should use my extra egt sensors to get hard data too

As we head into the fall events Ill get some help from mother nature too.

 

I just used a stock iat sensor for the engine bay. They go up to 250 degrees from what i remember. Sorry i mean lt shroud not duct i have my fan on the opposite side of the radiator pushing air thru it.

 

Any pro level circuit car will have ducting in and out of heat exchangers

 

Agreed.

I've got 4 egt probes ran into the bay from the itb setup. Just coiled and ziptied in the corner by the battery. Would be easy to monitor on the handheld. I'm going to disperse them

​​​​Edit, done. Outside ambient, over header/under hood vent, rear intake mani, rear throttle


Also added ducting from the driver bumper duct to the air filter and the driver headlight duct to the air filter with bent flex tubes.

The crx motor was lookin pretty, needs 💕


Ignore the wheels, rpf1s are stacked waiting

 

Ugh might have to pull trans and replace some bearings or something. I did that last year so kinda bummed. But starting to have some issues getting into 1st and 5th and sounds like bearing noise when car is running and sitting still and you clutch in and touch on a synchro, its making some more noise than I remember or think is normal.

Normally I use GM sychromesh with friction modifier but last time I did a blend of torco mtf and rtf. After the last engine swap I topped it off with a quart of rtf. I wonder if that's anything or just the amount of track racing done this season is just wearing it.

​​​​​Always something.

The worst part is potentially wasting the fluids. Not cheap. I'm gonna get a clean pan to drain into and see how bad it looks :/ What do other people do like race teams, just go thru fluids like they're goin outta style?

 

I change my trans fluid pretty often just because the parts are getting so expensive the fluid is cheaper. I use torco mtf for my metal plate lsd.

 

Makes sense. Maybe i just need to change it more often. I drained it, still slightly warm, but its thin like water. No glitter. Not super black, the stream was still greenish blue.

I think I'll refill with the normal gm stuff I have in stock already anyway and hope it helps. If not, off with the trans! Atleast they are easy. I keep a lot of synchrotech instock. Plenty new 3rd gear hubs and synchros. I think i need to order more bearings tho.




What are you using for engine oil? Whats your cooling fluid strategy?

And thoughts on this? I got a bunch free from gridlife. But is it good?

What should i try? Lol



​​​​​​

 

If you have carbon synchros stick to the torco mtf

Coolant i use 80% water and 20 coolant. Spilling coolant on the track is frowned upon. In my eyes at least

 

No carbons just all brass.

I used carbons on the b16 car. I didnt like how fast they ate the gear cones. Shift feel wasnt enough to warrant that.

Well I dont have any more torco on hand. Wondering if I should experiment with the valvoline or just use my trusted ac delco. Gonna google around to see if anyone else uses either of those valvoline ones in their b series trans

Cool yeah I do maybe 10% coolant and the rest water. Yeah it def is frowned upon. Just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing out on something else. Ive only ever seen people add water at the track, as they generally should be. Things like evans waterless coolant is always interesting but I dont think track approved.

The google is telling me dont use the gear oil its not synchromeshy enough, and it seems like almost no one tries the valvoline mtf to even have an opinion. One reddit post stating the mtf felt better than honda mtf and hes going to use it in his 04 civic.

Leaning toward trying the valvoline. That way if i still have bearing noise I only wasted free fluid. And if I dont, hey maybe it will be decent. Who knows, apparently no one lol

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/transm...chros-3371731/

 

Good info. But i ran brass without carbon lining on this trans. Its cheaper to replace synchros than gearhubs.

​​​​​​Well, I still have some bearing noise I don't remember, which disappears once the clutch is fully released, but it shifts normally now. Valvoline MTF seems good so far. I didnt take it to high rpm but 3rd felt much more confident without crunch. So far so good.