Fun fact robs shop is down the street from me. He needs to lock in the na civics are faster than him

 

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Ugh I wanted to start cleaning his bay up. Couldnt stop staring at the unpainted mild steel welds starting to rust and the heat tape falling off the intake. The man might have too many projects! Lol

So the update you all have been waiting for! Dyno results!



This was a 4th gear pull at ~7psi. Pretty happy with this so far!

I might add some video when I get back to wifi...

Took it out on track. Ran amazing! Soo smooth. Zero boost lag. Awesome to have power! I dont feel like Im getting bored waiting for it to rev out. I was rocking 4th and 5th gear like nothin. Running thru 4th so easy. If I had this at road america I might be maxing out 5th gear! Gear ratio change might come about.

Of course it wasn't perfect on track. The start of lap 4 pushed me to coolant protection @ 205°. Easy quick pit, no drama. Def need shields and ducting.

Also you guys were right about the exhaust being too close to the radiator. I put some gold heat tape on the rad by the downpipe and a small spot melted. So, there's our sign. I might try some insulation and shielding before engineering a new downpipe. There arent too many possibilities.

​​​​​​If anyone wants to discuss engine break in procedure, just send them to this thread 😜



Overall super happy and nothing broken. Soo much potential now with this setup. I can't wait till the next track day!

For now, I leave you with some random gridlife pics.​​​​​​





JDM feels fosho








This thread is far from over, the quest for 500whp continues!

 

What run group were you in? I was trying to catch your car on track.

 

Also 205 is really low for ect. You can safely go to 220.

 

I ran with time attack group E. I didnt want to hold anyone up, back of the pack.

 

Yeah but I dont want to push it for no reason. 205 is my upper limit anyway, I probably lifted my b16's head pushing 215 at wmhm one year. Was turbo. Burped the coolant pretty good. Cooled off and was fine. Arp head studs too.

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I monitor coolant pressure constantly. 220 is a safe limit. Ben thorne was taking his to 245 at your event and finally blew a hose off and still kept the motor running haha. He isnt too smart though.

 

Sheesh!

It wasnt getting much better without the shields I'm sure. I was only going to drive it harder. I wasn't really pushing it. I can't wait for the next track day lol. Might have to snag one before autobahn because thats a month out.

I'll actually be gunning for a podium at that gridlife. I'll street tune it as high as I can or 20ish psi whatever is first. I know autobahn country club pretty good. Ive done multiple track weekends there + sim'd it a bunch. I stand a good chance at doing good on that one

 

Slime Rock in August is about the best cooling system test you can get. If you didn’t cook it there you should be pretty alright.

I’m so used to metric now that I have to do the math but I’ve always targeted 90/100 (C) for water/oil in every race build and start pulling power at 112-115 (C) water depending on the engine design. I imagine with a studded head on a sleeved B block you could set your upper limit at 215F and still be plenty safe. I agree that 205F is mighty conservative though.

 

Nice pics theYBLEGAL. I saw that ChaseBays FR-S on the dyno at Motorvations a little over a week ago. The engine bay was super clean and it made pretty good power for a flat boxer motor.

 

Congrats on a successful weekend! From another dude who aims for low temps I concur with the other folks. 215 is my typical limit but I’d also say with a boosted civic it maybe tough to do 20 minute sessions…I know for my home. Track where I race and my CRX…20minutes is NOT gonna happen without wild changes . Look forward to your updates!

 

If you couldnt keep the coolant in check on low boost and not pushing the car hard then you should focus on that next. Its unfortunately going to be redesigning the manifold or radiator placement. Once you push into the 4-500whp range its going to create a lot more heat.

 

Yup.

I'd say lap 3 was 80%+ of the time on throttle like I would be trying.

But yeah, this was zero heatproofing. Chasing heat is all I did on my last turbo B16 that did track days.

Im going to try to make some oem-style, clamshell heatshields out of the basalt-insulated aluminum heat shield for the manifold. Wrap the rest.

We are going to modify the radiator for a little more clearance at the lowest bend as well. I wrapped the section of downpipe beneath the oil pan last night. Waiting for more to arrive

The old B16 setup:

 

I might have missed this - but wanted to ask directly, was there any noticeable change in 'front end stiffness' after adding the tubular section? Always wanted to do a quick-release type radiator support myself. Awesome build, by the way.

 

Thanks!

The front core support I made is not structural in anyway. It has too much inherent flex.

Since I also removed the oem welded lower support, I was worried the rails would be less stiff. I'm not noticing a decrease in stiffness atleast. It was mainly done for aerodynamics. I wanted to move the hoodvents as far forward as possible. Giving the rad the angle I did was a slight afterthought. Once I had it fabbed it just seem natural to tilt the rad.
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Couple questions.

Were you able to get any laptimes at the track? How many laps total were you able to do? Was the dyno at the track free?

 

The dyno was not free, $95/hr tho, super cheap.

By the time I got done with the dyno there was only one session left. I ran the 3 laps untimed, came off at the start of 4, hoping to add some shielding quick and get an opp to get back on but no dice.

 

 

95 and hr is cheap! My local dyno bumped the price from 150hr to 300hr.

The heat shield on the manifold will help with underhood temps, i dont think itll have a direct effect on coolant temps.

Its also going to cook that manifold so be prepared for it to lose that shine. Mine went from kinda crusty to almost black. It also started to crack.

 

It is what it is I guess. Can't let thermal runaway take over tho.

Considering adding a second radiator like a heater core sized rad in the passenger bumper looped into the cabin heater core run. Thoughts?

Also turning the cabin heat on can help as last resort. Something i didn't do on track the last time

 

Awesome. Might go ahead and give this a try on a future project!

 

The only solution is moving the dp away from the radiator. You're just wasting time and resources doing anything else.

 

We will clearance it by thinning the lower tank in that area. Ducting wont be a waste of time or resources.

The heat padding is wishful thinking, agreed. But if IATs stay low that helps keep ECT lower too, every little bit counts

 

Sweet yeah go for it! Could be ~$40 if someone just did it with rebar and paint!

Ps I did mount a traction bar between the rails at the same time so that was the compensation for losing the lower welded bar. Not totally chinless under there lol.