Ribs93

Im hoping somebody could point me in the right direction, i want to know if what ive calculated so far is an appropriate set up for my goals. im still reading and learning a ton, i just want to see if im actually picking up on what ive already read. My goal is upwards to 550whp with an LS/VTEC, for street use. I figure the precision 6262 would be good for this goal.

for the compressor housing i figured the 4"in/2"out
with a t4 .58 A/R

if this isnt the right choice for my specific build could somebody explain why not, i keep reading what trim, A/R is over and over and over and i just cant grasp it.
heres the link for the turbo
http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...rnal-1339.html

also what is the difference in the compressor wheel covers, the options to choose from are an S cover, and E cover, and an anti-surge S cover.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

i believe for that particular setup you would be looking for the .68AR with the T4 flange, but i would wait for some more input from the turbo gods here

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

its a T4 a .58 would work but the .68 would work better. Going to depend on fuel too. If your one of those trying to push the limits of pump gas then no it wont work.

Im on a .63 turbine housing t3 with a 6266 and definitely no backpressure issues yet up to 27 pounds of boost

4genaccordfreak

That turbo is slightly larger than you "need".

If 500-550whp is your goal, a Garrett GT3582R (.82 a/r) will get you there with no problem and with a better quality unit (in my opinion).

You can get it in a T3-4bolt flange, a T3-Vband flange and a T4-Vband flange in three choices of A/R's: .63, .82 and 1.06.

Inlet is 4", outlet is 2.5"

It is an older design and less efficient than their newer GTX series, but for the price, it is a top-notch, quality choice with tried & true design and longevity. Plus, Precision can't touch Garrett's customer service, repair/rebuild program and turn-around time.

Ribs93

yeah im planning to run pump fuel so with that being said, the .68 would be better?
would you recommend this set-up or would you use a t3 on the exhaust side with a .63?
again my goal is to be around 550 upwards to 600whp.
thanks guys!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

T3 GT35R in a .63 A/R will easily do 500-550whp, using the N111 exhaust wheel. Those don't require a .82A/R to do that for a LS/VTEC at all. Either way a T4 .58 or T4 .68 is not necessary. the volutes of the turbine housings are a bit larger than necessary.

Then there is the journal bearing version of that GT35R, the GT3540S which could do similar for a bit lower pricetag, and wouldn't need water lines as a requirement, though I'd do water lines anyway for LS/VTEC

Ribs93

after reading more whenever i get the chance, ive decided to go with a 6262 t3 .63 a/r
im wondering what you guys would suggest for pistons. ive also changed my power goals to a more realistic 380-450whp on pump fuel.
from what ive read im leaning towards a 9.7:1 setup.
the rest of my set up as planned:

b16a2 head | b18b1 block | GSR transmission
Golden Eagle LS Vtec swap kit
Supertech valve train
AEM adjustable cams gears
Skunk2 tuner 1 camshafts
AEM CDI pencil coils
AEM EPM
AEM twin fire ignition
AEM EMS v.2
CP pistons 81mm 9.7:1*
Manley H-beam rods
Darton MID wet sleeves
Skunk2 ultra series intake manifold
Skunk2 pro series TB 70mm
TiAl blow off valve
Spearco fmic
PT 62/62
BlueridgeMotorsports ram horn manifold
TiAl 44mm waste gate
ID 1000cc injectors
Golden Eagle pro series fuel rail
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive fuel filter
Bosch 044 fuel pump
Act twin disk clutch
Act high pressure pressure plate
Act lightened flywheel

4genaccordfreak

If that is the power level you are looking at achieving, you just went the opposite way, choosing a Precision 6262.

That turbo is good for almost 700hp, which is overkill for a 380-450whp goal.

A GT35R with a .63a/r for a 500-550 power level was suggested to you already.

You now only want 380-450, which is now in the perfect power range for a Garrett GT3076R.

I would suggest making up your mind, you are currently mis-matching the turbocharger with the rest of your build goals.

As for your choice of pistons. To my knowledge, CP does not make SHELF pistons in that (9.7:1) compression ratio specifically for an B18b engine in 81mm unless they are custom.

From what I have found for "off-the-shelf" pistons, you have these options for B18b:

Part# SC7005, B18A1/B1 3.189" (81.0mm)bore STD, 1.181, 9.0:1
Part# SC7006, B18A1/B1 3.209" (81.5mm)bore +0.5mm, 1.181, 9.0:1
Part# SC7105, B18A1/B1 3.189" (81.0mm)bore STD, 1.181, 10.5:1
Part# SC7106, B18A1/B1 3.209" (81.5mm)bore +0.5mm, 1.181, 10.5:1

Ribs93

thanks for the reply, im looking to be around the low to mid 400's on pump fuel and than closer to my original goal on race fuel, and have a tune that accommodates both. i realize leaving that out did me no good. and now ive realized i had the 9.7:1 saved in my notes while i was sourcing a b20 block instead of a b18b1.. my bad. so its between the 9.0:1 and 10.5:1. if i want to stay with the STD bore. so now i guess my question is would it be best to get my engine bored to 84mm when i get the sleeves put in, what would you guys suggest be a good ratio for going back and forth from pump fuel to race fuel. sorry for getting mixed up guys, too many long nights of hard work and reading afterwards..

Ribs93

after reading a thread on numbers with that turbo it seems like my original goal of 550whp is a bit hard to achieve on pump fuel. a guy in my town has a fully built low compression b18b1 with a 6262 and he made around 340 i believe. im usually away working for two months and home for ten days, and home is vancouver island british columbia, wich means theres little time home and alot of rain. for the most part the car will be driven on race fuel and on pump fuel for about 30% of the time. its by no means a DD. im also still trying learn a ton as i go along, so this isnt all set in stone until im sure of what im building an why. thanks for putting up with me so far everyone!

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I agree the 6262 is way too big for you. If you like Precision then the look at the 5858/5857. Or for Garrett the GT3076 or GTX3071.

To make that much power on pump gas you will want the lower compression and a larger turbo which would be the precision 5858. But if you choose to tune on higher octane fuel then you can select the higher compression with a smaller more responsive turbo and lean on it a bit more.

4cylfiend

iTrader: (1)

These turbos are awesome and will be very efficient for your setup. I had a cast wheel 5857 on my Pistons/Rods GSR and made 400whp on 16lbs (pump gas 93). The newer billet/CEA wheels on the 5858 will be more effective also.

OneBadTurboCRV

Just to help people understand the OP's thought process and purpose of the car...

Why do you need/want 550whp exactly?

Also, what is the reason the car can't be driven on race fuel all the time if you say only 30% of the time for pump gas?

You pick a turbo and complete system to work with what the end goal is supposed to be. A multipurpose car will ALWAYS sacrifice in some way, shape, or form.

Ribs93

so just to clear up my biggest question which is confusing me the most, what kind of power would i make with a t3 6262 .63 A/R AND pump fuel on my motor? when i made this thread understand the initial question was about my a/r, but now that i have a better understanding, can somebody explain why at first the 6262 "wouldnt work if i wanted to be on 93 octane" and then it was all of a sudden too big? i know what the 6262 is rated for hp wise but seeing a fully built low compression non vtec with a 6262 make 350 whp, i figured pushing an lsvtec to its limit with extensive tuning by a reputable shop could land me around 500whp. then shodan said it wouldnt work, wich is why i considered using race fuel on the same set up to land me closer to my 500-550whp mark. so its too big if i want to use race fuel and not big enough to use with pump fuel? what is a more realistic range of power to see with the 6262 on a pump fuel ls/vtec?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, for the simplest answer to your question, its because you're looking at the HP rating of this turbo as though that power level is within the turbo's efficiency range, ALL THE TIME. Whenever you're running lower boost on larger turbochargers, you may technically reach your peak power goals under pump gas (around 400-450whp give or take a few), but using such a larger-mid-framed size turbo, under 3litres of displacement, and under lower boost pressures, make the turbo act really sluggish in between gears in order to simply reach a peak wheel HP number.

Now I understand "sluggish" is a subjective term (What's sluggish to some might not be that way to others), but you're looking for these power levels to have the car react a certain way, and what you're asking for, and what the 6262 is used for are two different things.

So, even at 350-400whp, it won't be a true power level except for perhaps the last 2000rpms or so. It won't feel like the power you're expecting, because its out of its efficiency range of use under that power level. You need something that fits right into the "sweet spot" of the efficiency range of the turbo's behaviour.

Go smaller... WAY smaller, like 5857 (or 56lbs/min) size. You can still reach 500-550 between 26-30psi that way on that size, and still relatively be in the range of use for both your 350whp now, and 500whp, later..

Hope that helps a bit.

Ribs93

after reading the thread on numbers the 6262 has made it seems like 400 is easily achievable with pump fuel on a vtec engine, and even closer to 500. If 4cylfiend made 400whp on pump fuel with a 5857 why isnt my goal with the 6262 and 93 octane possible? so what exactly is the "sweet spot" for the 6262, and what could i expect to see with that turbo and my motor on 93 octane. would it be possible to get to 550 and still be responsive

Ribs93

im hearing everything you guys are saying, and i appreciate every bit of it. im just trying to see where i went wrong now, i thought the 6262 would be perfect for what i want and im trying to learn why it isnt now. with my motor and 93 octane and a 6262, its basically going to lag a bunch? what whp would i see?

Ribs93

im going back to my original plan of being on pump fuel only, with that said although the 5857 can see 500whp at high boost, is it possible to take a motor up to that amount of psi on pump fuel? is it possible to be in my desired range of power, be on pump fuel, and have a responsive turbo!? damn sorry for asking so much, i only have so much time before i head back out to work on the boat and lose service guys.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Check out pg 8 of the 5857 thread. https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2Aofficial-precision-5857-turbo-thread%2A%2A-2953731/

Ribs93

sounds good. sorry for being so stubborn guys, im just trying to understand where i went wrong. i did some reading on the gt35r and it seems like a great turbo, and the best route for me to take. ill do some more reading around, and ill probably go with garrett! thanks for answer all my questions guys.

OneBadTurboCRV

PM The Shodan about a Reaper or Silver Surfer... you won't have to use coolant lines potentially and save money during the process. He uses Garrett based turbos.

Ribs93

with a GT35R t3 .63 a/r, and a fully built ls vtec on pump fuel, do you think 9.0:1 is a low enough compression?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Sure. and even "fully built", on 93 octane, you'll be about 430whp or so. That's with it being about 14psi or less. Again.. SLUGGISH, even with a GT35R. Doesn't get good until you start putting in better fuel and increase pressure. Otherwise, you're no different than almost a stock engine making the same power.

Your issue will again, be the lack of knock resistance from 93 octane, that'll keep that boost down.