will plastic IC piping work?
Like I said, the rubber couplers held up to 12psi in my car, it was the heat from the turbo that caused the one right on the comrpessor to keep failing. Use a good silicone coupler there and you'll get away with Home Depot everywhere esle.
eh6turbo- yeah the barcodes are like printed on there. they dont come off. yeah dude what ic was that piping for? u think itll work? cuz ill definetly give u 5 bucks for it.
I'll take some pics when I get home. I have like 3 or 4 peices. I'm sure you could use it some how. And screw the 5 dollars shipping I'll send for free cause I'm a nice guy
lol e-mail me your address and I'll hook you up. my email is hxc_milla@yahoo.com
lol e-mail me your address and I'll hook you up. my email is hxc_milla@yahoo.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">people have used that to make intake piping before and had melting problems...
the fumes pvc gives off when burned are also toxic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I also heard that the fumes given off by hot PVC are corrosive to aluminum...
any validation for this?
the fumes pvc gives off when burned are also toxic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I also heard that the fumes given off by hot PVC are corrosive to aluminum...
any validation for this?
Welp I like the creativity but I don't think it's gonna hold very long.
You may Want to try JC Whitney, I've seen a lot of guys mentioning getting I/C piping cheap thru them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by COOKIEPUSS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Welp I like the creativity but I don't think it's gonna hold very long.
You may Want to try JC Whitney, I've seen a lot of guys mentioning getting I/C piping cheap thru them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i thought i cheaped out until i saw this thread
$700 is way out of the question when all it takes is a tape measure and some common sense to do it yourself
Heres my list of parts turned out great
* Jc whintey piping $78 shipped
* Silicone Couplers $57 shipped( 4 straights/2 transition peices)
* T bolt Clamps - b-day present, but they are like $4 a piece on http://www.vecco.net T bolt clamps
* Greddy flange $25 shipped
* Tony1 welding $40
* Autozone aluminuim 500 degree paint $4.50
Everything came out good, welds are nice duh, piping looks nice, haven't had any probs with t-bolt clamps
Your idea is creative, but i dont see it lasting to long. My opinion do it right the first time, thier are ways to save $, but don't shortcut thing that will save you a headache in long run
Welp I like the creativity but I don't think it's gonna hold very long.
You may Want to try JC Whitney, I've seen a lot of guys mentioning getting I/C piping cheap thru them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i thought i cheaped out until i saw this thread
$700 is way out of the question when all it takes is a tape measure and some common sense to do it yourselfHeres my list of parts turned out great
* Jc whintey piping $78 shipped
* Silicone Couplers $57 shipped( 4 straights/2 transition peices)
* T bolt Clamps - b-day present, but they are like $4 a piece on http://www.vecco.net T bolt clamps
* Greddy flange $25 shipped
* Tony1 welding $40
* Autozone aluminuim 500 degree paint $4.50
Everything came out good, welds are nice duh, piping looks nice, haven't had any probs with t-bolt clamps
Your idea is creative, but i dont see it lasting to long. My opinion do it right the first time, thier are ways to save $, but don't shortcut thing that will save you a headache in long run
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by glowing_turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in that case, i think it will work fine. as long as you dont push any more than 8psi, and have used enough cement on the piping you'll be good. although i would strongly suggest upgrading down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We used this **** to build the air lines at a previous shop i worked at..
Can you say 150 psi. It wont came apart at a measily 8 psi
in that case, i think it will work fine. as long as you dont push any more than 8psi, and have used enough cement on the piping you'll be good. although i would strongly suggest upgrading down the road.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We used this **** to build the air lines at a previous shop i worked at..
Can you say 150 psi. It wont came apart at a measily 8 psi
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the fumes pvc gives off when burned are also toxic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the fumes are also toxic for the engine, over time it will start to eat away at the pistons and internals but if it is only temporary then it would probably be fine but get metal as soon as you can
the fumes pvc gives off when burned are also toxic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the fumes are also toxic for the engine, over time it will start to eat away at the pistons and internals but if it is only temporary then it would probably be fine but get metal as soon as you can
The PVC should be fine, like everyone's said - household water supply is 40psi minimum, and it can handle scalding hot water, so it should be ok with the air temps, as long as it's not right near the exhaust.
Those rubber couplers aren't great. I used some for a while and found that they softened a lot when the got hot, and the clamps tended to loosen very easily.
-Chris
Those rubber couplers aren't great. I used some for a while and found that they softened a lot when the got hot, and the clamps tended to loosen very easily.
-Chris
the PVC will work just fine!! I have built several pneumatic spud guns out of the same stuff. I routinely fill my guns to 130+ psi and I have never had any problems. The only thing that I would be concerned about is those rubber connectors will wear out over time. They will usually develop cracks over time. Other than that they should be ok.
Ghetto fabulous, I love it.
I think 1st gen DSMs use flexible rubber piping, but some guys swap it out cause it expands.
I think ABS plastic is also available for plumbing and it is more rugged, I have several contractor friends, and one of them used ABS pluming pipe for his ram-air nitrous setup.
-PHiZ
I think 1st gen DSMs use flexible rubber piping, but some guys swap it out cause it expands.
I think ABS plastic is also available for plumbing and it is more rugged, I have several contractor friends, and one of them used ABS pluming pipe for his ram-air nitrous setup.
-PHiZ
sorry the math is just off the top of my head, but since water carries about 4x the thermal energy of air, wouldn't the boiling water the pipes are rated for have far more thermal energy than air at even 300*F+?
as for the couplers, if the pressure is causing them to burst, you can also get metal jackets that clamp on outside the rubber that will take some of the stress off the couplers.
i love it when the people that didn't think of it first always say it won't work. good job man, looks good..
as for the couplers, if the pressure is causing them to burst, you can also get metal jackets that clamp on outside the rubber that will take some of the stress off the couplers.
i love it when the people that didn't think of it first always say it won't work. good job man, looks good..
Ran 7+ psi for several months on my daily driver while I built my own fmic, including a few 100 mile trips. Some complete misconceptions about PVC are floating around this thread...
1) It's not going to emit "toxic fumes" that will corrode your motor. Sheesh.
2)It's not going to blow apart. PVC is incredibly strong, I'd put it up against those fancy silicon couplers people like to use on their high dollar IC's any day. 60+ psi of water pressure is very powerful and difficult to deal with. 5 - 25 psi of air pressure is not.
3)Hold a flame up to a piece of PVC. Does it melt? NO. It *burns*. That is not going to happen unless your turbo is shooting fire. If it is, then burning PVC is just one of your many problems.
To the one who started the thread:
for being creative and beating "the man".
1) It's not going to emit "toxic fumes" that will corrode your motor. Sheesh.
2)It's not going to blow apart. PVC is incredibly strong, I'd put it up against those fancy silicon couplers people like to use on their high dollar IC's any day. 60+ psi of water pressure is very powerful and difficult to deal with. 5 - 25 psi of air pressure is not.
3)Hold a flame up to a piece of PVC. Does it melt? NO. It *burns*. That is not going to happen unless your turbo is shooting fire. If it is, then burning PVC is just one of your many problems.
To the one who started the thread:
for being creative and beating "the man".
Get it done right...seiously..some people on here kill me...spend like 1000 dollars on a turbo and then wont spend another 100 or 200 bucks on some decent IC piping. I don't have any faith in that setup, but you get points for creativity.
Holy ****, I can't believe what I am seeing here.
It is good to be pennywise and props to you for trying something different but this is not going to be reliable on a daily driven car.
If those are the hose boots from lowes/home depot keep in mind they will only last you for maybe a week or 2. And most likely they will pop off, you need silicone hose boots. The pvc piping will give off gases once it endures heat which is not the best thing in the world for your motor. Over time the pvc will be come weak and most likely crack as well from enduring long sessions of the heatsoaked air flow.
Do as the others have said, order pipes from jc whitney or go to a muffler shop that can bend the pipes for you for cheap.
It is good to be pennywise and props to you for trying something different but this is not going to be reliable on a daily driven car.
If those are the hose boots from lowes/home depot keep in mind they will only last you for maybe a week or 2. And most likely they will pop off, you need silicone hose boots. The pvc piping will give off gases once it endures heat which is not the best thing in the world for your motor. Over time the pvc will be come weak and most likely crack as well from enduring long sessions of the heatsoaked air flow.
Do as the others have said, order pipes from jc whitney or go to a muffler shop that can bend the pipes for you for cheap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GudeH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If those are the hose boots from lowes/home depot keep in mind they will only last you for maybe a week or 2. And most likely they will pop off, you need silicone hose boots. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet jesus.. "is this thing on??"
If those are the hose boots from lowes/home depot keep in mind they will only last you for maybe a week or 2. And most likely they will pop off, you need silicone hose boots. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sweet jesus.. "is this thing on??"
If this guy can get a thunderbird to run 12s on pcv then I think a honda pushin 10lbs will be ok.
http://www.toohighpsi.com/BudgetTT/tt351W.htm
http://www.toohighpsi.com/BudgetTT/tt351W.htm
not too bad... it will be ok for low boost applications bro. you'll be fine. just be sure to look at the boost gauge more often so that you know if your loosing pressure if it happens to leak.
I have also seen people use just good old raditator hose to connect piping or hell even use it to route to the TB, just make sure when you do this you use 2 or more clamps on each end to make sure its on tight.
If you think about it a radiator hose is flexible, thick, durable, won't rust, expandable if needed, made to handle over 30psi of pressure & hot fluyids or air.... almost perfect except for the fact that it is not as duriable as metal piping.
I have also seen people use just good old raditator hose to connect piping or hell even use it to route to the TB, just make sure when you do this you use 2 or more clamps on each end to make sure its on tight.
If you think about it a radiator hose is flexible, thick, durable, won't rust, expandable if needed, made to handle over 30psi of pressure & hot fluyids or air.... almost perfect except for the fact that it is not as duriable as metal piping.



