q8delsol

hii
i have a b20vtec with cp pistons and eagle rods gt35r turbo i dont have crank and now search for a new crank can the crank give me more hp? and wich crank the best and how much? where i can buy it from the net?

THANKS

non-VTEC

many people have made big power on the stock crank...its very strong and reliable...i think you should just use the stock one and spend the extra money on something else....

Tuesday Club

...like maybe sleeves?!

CivicVX94

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tuesday Club &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...like maybe sleeves?!</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya buddy you don't need to worry about a new crank, you need new sleeves!

q8delsol

i have new darton sleeves
but i dont have the stock crank and i think i want to make extra hp like 600+hp so what crank i need to use?

jameelrose

the stock one, or in your case... a stock one.

gdh8su

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by q8delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have new darton sleeves
but i dont have the stock crank and i think i want to make extra hp like 600+hp so what crank i need to use?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Really a stock crank is all you need!! It's a waste of time and money to buy a Eagle or Crower crank and prep it.

q8delsol

so the stock crank can support over 600hp? if can why some ppls use new crank??

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by q8delsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the stock crank can support over 600hp? if can why some ppls use new crank??</TD></TR></TABLE>

10 people have told you stock crank. I'll be the 11th.

Why do some people buy 22" rims when the stock 15"s work? Because they have money to blow.

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

10 people have told you stock crank. I'll be the 11th.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


we have made over 800whp with a stock LS crank(balanced and polished) the same crank has been in the car for over 30 track runs, and at least 20 dyno pulls.

q8delsol

ok thanks i will buy the stock crank
i have b20b block just i need buy b20b crank or there r another crank can use like b18 wich one the best?
and what i should doing after i buy the crank just polish it?

HiProfile

B18b and b20 are essentially the same, no noticable difference. Just make sure you get a crank that doesn't have any defects, or has been micropolished 20 times.

The gsr crank is a slightly shorter stroke, and uses more narrow rods. THe ITR crank has been lightened. For that much power, you'll want the extra weight to prevent harmonics and such, to put it in few words. Whatever crank you get, take it to a automotive machine shop, have them check that its w/in spec (roundness, etc), have them balance it, then micropolish it and camfer the oil bores a bit. All that cost me under $100 locally, and this is the midwest.

In all honest, I'd advise caution. Something tells me you haven't built many 500hp motors, let alone an OEM rebuild. You have to learn to crawl before you can walk - build it to handle the power, but don't make power the only goal.

DaveF

fwiw, i believe the itr crank is actually heavier than the gsr/ls/b20 cranks

q8delsol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18b and b20 are essentially the same, no noticable difference. Just make sure you get a crank that doesn't have any defects, or has been micropolished 20 times.

The gsr crank is a slightly shorter stroke, and uses more narrow rods. THe ITR crank has been lightened. For that much power, you'll want the extra weight to prevent harmonics and such, to put it in few words. Whatever crank you get, take it to a automotive machine shop, have them check that its w/in spec (roundness, etc), have them balance it, then micropolish it and camfer the oil bores a bit. All that cost me under $100 locally, and this is the midwest.

In all honest, I'd advise caution. Something tells me you haven't built many 500hp motors, let alone an OEM rebuild. You have to learn to crawl before you can walk - build it to handle the power, but don't make power the only goal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for ur advice. and yes its my first built for 500hp and i cant waiting the end i hop i can do the right thing for every thing without big troubles
so now just i need to buy the b20 crank and polish it in automotive machine shop

gdh8su

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">fwiw, i believe the itr crank is actually heavier than the gsr/ls/b20 cranks</TD></TR></TABLE>

True! ^^ By a couple of pounds.

q8delsol

so its good thing to use heavier crank for high hp or bad?

PickleTeg

iTrader: (2)

A heavier crank offers more stability at higher RPMs...hence the reason the ITR got one.

0morgan@synapse motorsport

what rods did you get??? this would play a major role in your choice for what crank u have to run wouldnt it? if its meant for the b20, then u would have to run the b20/ls crank. correct me if im wrong here.

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrdthry911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rods did you get??? this would play a major role in your choice for what crank u have to run wouldnt it? if its meant for the b20, then u would have to run the b20/ls crank. correct me if im wrong here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your right.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PickleTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A heavier crank offers more stability at higher RPMs...hence the reason the ITR got one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your wrong bro, the itr crank just has more material in a certain area where as the ls/b20, & gsr cranks have less material. it has to do with strength, not high rpm stability.

PickleTeg

iTrader: (2)

I was told the added weight was for the harmonics that are produced at higher RPMs. I am not an engine builder or a lower end expert by any means. I guess we agree it is heavier though.