That blows man!
Have you found anything out yet??

 

Had to go do some odd jobs for some extra $$ this morning, i'll be tearing it down as soon as I get some grub. I'll post up in a while and let ya know what I find.

 

Ok here is the low down guys. Once I got everything pulled of the car. I inspected the intake valves on my #1 cylinder. With my air compressor, I blew compressed air around the valves and listened into the intake ports........yeah it's sounds retarded but it worked. So with my trusty custom valve spring compressor I removed the intake valves........I took each valve and put it in a cordless drill and spun it. I found that one of my valves was out of whack by a red **** hair, most likely from a previous valve cruching incedent.

Luckily i've got a few intake valves extra laying around. So I'm gonna got buy some lapping cmpd, take out all the valves, and give them all a good lapping.

 

Side Note:

Anyone know if I can re-use my Cometic HP head gasket? I've heard of peeps reusing then with no problems. I dunno how quickly I can pick up an CRV head gasket and have it over-bored to fit my engine......84.5mm


[Modified by Speed PHreak, 12:29 AM 11/15/2002]

 

Explain what lapping the valves are...I am intriged

 

lapping the valves means you simply put a lapping compound (available at any auto parts store) on the seat area of the valve and then spin the valve against the seat so that they "conform" to eachother to seal. Basically it is seating your valves, pretty much free, and very effective as long as your valves aren't too far away from seating.

 

Indeed, $5 for "valve grinding compound" and $5 for the stick with suction cups on it.........20 minutes worth of work and you're done.

 

Anyone?

 

how do you test to see if it's good enough to use the lapping compound? by seeing if it leaks water through the seating valve?

also, bascially what is the lapping compound?

 

hmm wasn't that other thread based on race only motors? earl was saying he rebuilds his motor ever 25 miles of use or something

 

I dont know if you found your answer already but i read one of Importbuilder's posts somewhere and he said that oem b20 headgaskets are 84.5 from the factory.

 

Bump

So what ever happened? Did the valve job fix the problem?

 

Thanks for the info, i'll use that in the future. For the time being I copper sprayed my Cometic head gasket and it seems to be working just fine at the moment.

Umm yeah that's EXACTLY what happened. Ya know, I faintly remember knit-picking on something of your's, but I don't really remember or see how that matters now. Most of the time I help out when I know the answer to something, other-wise I keep my yap shut. Unlike you and your BS posts. **** off dude.

Thank you for the curiosity Well after I did the valve lapping job myself. I found that I had to replace 4 valves in the head. Over the summer I jumped a timing belt a few times, while trying to install a new set of cams. Long story short a bum set of cam gears(mismatched sizing), cuased my timing belt to jump no matter how perfect the belt was put on. 1 out of the 3 times it made definative contct with the valves, and I had to replace a few of them. 300 miles later(this occurance) I had to replace 4 more that were only slighty affected by the belt jump, but were fine before hand.

Anyways, I got the lapping job finished and everything put back together. Compression test hits 185 across the board. Run and idles smooth as silk. The current problem is that I can't fuel enough to boost over 8psi.....Sadly it's still faster than before my rebuild when I was boosting 10psi

 

ouch that suxs

 

i had a very similar problem with one of my rebuilt engines .

I was driving under boost (about 100 MI on the engine) and i let off, and engine had a missfire... compression test revealed cyl 2 at 27 psi compression (others were right on the money)

i let it sat for a while pondering the problem... I decided to drive it over to the shop from my house, and after letting it warm up, i moved it out of the driveway, and 1/2 way down the block... the engine started to fire again!

As it turns out after much contemplation, one of my hydraulic lifters got STUCK!!
But that was my problem.

And as for breaking it in... HARD keep it in the first two or three gears and take it progressively higher up into the rev range letting the motor bring the revs back down, and GIVE IT BOOST after about 10 minutes of run time AFTER the enigne has completly warmed up.

Good way to break in a new engine.. the more pressure you put on the rings, the better they seat... idling the car is a no no

 

i been lookin for something like that, where can that be bought?

 

Since it was running fine for ~100 miles, the valve was probably fine before hand right? Sounds to me like you experienced valve float, or your cams are tuned wrong.

 

Damn thats fu**ed up. But if you think thats bad heres my comp. test on a fullly stock B16a2 W/50Gs on it. 5, 175, 110, 90. My car was sprayed with nitrous a couple of times (around 5-7 Times) but I doubt thats why this happened.

 

You losing compression like that was a blessing in disguise courtesy of the honda gods...now your granted w/ 185 cly. press. ...and even more efficient than before...I'd say that's a happy ending.

2 quick Q's:
How do you spin the valves to seat them?
Can bent valves hurt the valve guides?

 

You can usually by it at your local Pep-boys/Autozone/Napa.

You buy a "special tool". Where ever you get the valve lapping compound will usually have it. The tool you need to spin the valve is just a dowel rod with a suction cup on the end. You apply the grinding cmpd the to SEAT of the valve and to the SEAT in the head, never grind any into your valve guides. Insert the valve into the head and place the tool on the face of the valve. Clasp your hands on the tool and run them in a back and forth motion.

Yup, the the valve stem gets warped it'll wear on the inside of the guide, thus ******* up yo shiet.

 

Did you replace them for safe measure?