turbo_b16_ex

im wanting to do a street setup and buy some pistons and rods. I hear people tell me every which way that you got to have sleeves if your going to boost and that you dont have to sleeve as long as you dont boost high. So whos got sleeves and who dont? I want to run approxiametely 14-17 on a sc44 gimme some usefull stuff here

turbo_ef9

i do.. i run a d16z6 motor.. completely stock 15lbs all day.. have been running it for almsot 9 months with no problems.. still great compression and still pulls as hard as the day i put it in..

KeyserSoze

Once again...........

Boost does not destroy engines, the hp (stress) placed upon the internal components destroys engines. Read.

" Are you running stock or aftermarket sleeves? The main causes of a sleeve cracking is cylinder pressure exceeding the tensile strength of the sleeve or the cylinder deforming beyond the sleeves elasticity. Stock sleeves are std. gray cast iron and have a low tensile strength (approximately 30 K PSI) and a very low percentage of elongation (non-flexable).
For aftermarket sleeves there are 3 grades of materials available as well as different wall thickness and designs. A std. repair sleeve is made of the same material as stock sleeves (very cheap) and has a very thin wall (actually weaker than stock since it's pressed in rather than cast in). An in-between grade (inexpensive also) is made of a cast chromoly and is slightly more flexiable and has a higher than stock tensile strength (50K PSI). Some installers are using these due to the lower cost of the sleeves. The Ductile iron sleeves have a tensile of over 100K PSI and are very flexable.
With all that being said, assuming the sleeves were a quality casting and installed correctly and don't sink, leak, deform or oscillate (wobble), the cylinder pressure and HP are the cause of aftermarket sleeve failure. All sleeve mfg.'s and installers are limited to a max wall thickness by the bore centerline (distance between bores) and cylinder bore. This is always the thinnest and weakest point of everyones sleeve, regardless of how much material (ribs, thicker wall) is in other parts of the sleeve.
So if you have an 84 bore on an 89 bore center there's 5mm between the cylinders. If the sleeves were touching (most don't), the individual sleeves wall thickness would be 2.5mm or .098" . .098 x 100K = 9842 PSI for the Ductile sleeve, half of that for chromoly and 2940 PSI for gray cast iron. Notice that a 1 mm overbore on ductile sleeves will drop that to 7800 PSI and a 2mm overbore drops to 5800 PSI. A stock material cast iron sleeve would drop all the way to 1740 PSI on an 86 bore.Advancing the timing to far or detonation (pre-ignition) will cause cylinder pressures to spike (especially with a turbo) because the piston is still moving up (compressing) as the ignited mixture is expanding. Resulting in possible sleeve failure. As the HP goes up the thrust (side) load of the piston on the sleeve goes up as more force is applied . Converting the linear motion of the piston to the rotary motion of the crank causes the piston to push to the thrust side. This can cause the sleeve to distort or wobble as the load is applied during the power stroke and reduced during intake and exhaust. This is what makes a closed deck desirable to support against this oscillation and reduce the fretting on the head gasket (leading to failure)as well as reducing the chance of creating a leak at the bottom of the sleeve. This movement can also cause a rigid stock sleeve to fatigue over time and crack."

Dont remember who wrote it, but it's good info. When your done with that go here.......

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

It is gen consensus that 400whp is about the max for a fairly reliable honda b-series (excluding b20) engine.

turbo_b16_ex

If you noticed i mentioned what size turbo, so if anyone was familiar with the amount of CFm these put out they could give me a logical answer. id like to make around 350whp

simike

With a good tune and 350whp you will be fine with stock sleeves. People have pushed them much further with good results.

KeyserSoze

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo_b16_ex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you noticed i mentioned what size turbo, so if anyone was familiar with the amount of CFm these put out they could give me a logical answer. id like to make around 350whp</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also covered a thousand times over. And the CFM the put out would do you no good to know, because if you understood what to use the cfm for you would also need the pressure ratio that you are going to try to run then consider whether or not you are in the efficiency range of the compressor. It would be better if you searched and figured it out for yourself then you would have the knowledge to make your OWN decision. But wait hold on, lemme get my spoon.........

How 'bout a t3/to4e 50 trim or 57 trim with the .63 a/r on the turbine side...........?

OR you could learn why these would be good choices for you......

How to read comp maps....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=142398
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=96443

What a/r is......
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1023414

Why having a larger turbine wheel or a/r is sometimes better....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1055905

BTW, these are ALL in the faq up on top of the f/i forum. GL.

TheBobFather

Jeff Evans made 600+ on stock sleeves........ https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1355442

G-Phi

Well, my GSR motor is turbo'd. Precision T3/t4 turbo. It's tuned with hondata s200 and I've been boosting at 7-7 1/2 lbs. of boost since May of this year 2005 and it pulls pretty damn good. The only time I turn it up to 9-10lbs. of boost is when I'm at the track. My car was tuned at 9-10lbs. of boost but I keep it at 7- 7 1/2 just to be safe. So far I've been o.k.