Kwuaymaikrup

Would the stock bypass be sufficient enough to where I could run a thermostat? Most run without one but I am woried about over cooling. I was also thinking that I could drill a few holes in my thermostat to help lower the back pressure on the pump. I just don't want to burn up the water pump. Any info would be much appreciated. I posted here cause I got no answers in the tech forum.

-Ryan

dasher

don't run an electric water pump on the street .. for the track is OK ...

Here are some of my experiences with mezierre water pump:

Install process= Pain in the ***...
Since you have to remove the stock water pump to install the dummy pully you will have to remove the Crank pulley ... which you could go about it by either doing this by locking the flywheel or by using the moroso crank lock tool you can buy for 70 bucks through Summit....
Clearences would be very tight if you tried to do it while the engine is in the car and it definetely will be a pain in the *** ....I did mine with the engine out so it was easier...

Overcooling the engine= YES, YES, YES!!!... THE Thermostat cannot help you at all ... you ARE REQUIRED to drill 2 3/8th holes in the thermostat to insure the electric water pump does not seize up because of no coolant flow....
YOUR CAR DEFINETLY WILL OVERCOOL upon startup if you simply leave the water pump on ...

Granted I HAve a Fluidyne radiator to help with my cooling, but I have to still get into my car and drive around for 3 minutes with absolutly No pump movement just to get my temperature up .. then switch the pump on for 30 seconds , then off of for 2 minutes , than on for 30 seconds , off for 30 seconds , on for 30 seconds .. ect....
A TOTAL PAIN IN THE *** ....

These past couple days it has been cold out .. 40-50F ... My electric water pump was on for maybe 5% of the time .. if not less ... This thing is really efficient and works really well at cooling your engine... I added 80% radiator fluid to 20% water just to attempt to try to decrease my cars cooling efficiency ... before I was running 80% water 20% coolant (because I raised the PSI in my coolant system with a Greddy radiator cap)....

Possible solution??? I purchased a CSI Water temp guage which allows said user to set a preset temperature for any accesories like a electric water pump to be turned on and off via a relay....
Problem solved? No more turning a switch on and off? No....
The CSI unit resets the temperature to 300 F everytime you step in the car .. so you have to reset the preset everytime ... not good for valet or handing the keys to your friend ... Solution= attach to a constant Hot volt so the guage never turns off .. power drain should be menial ....

Another problem ... The Guage seems to like picking up EMI and RF radiation in the engine bay via the water temp probe and wire ... CSI is aware of this problem and explain to the user that he/she needs to ground the outer layer of the coaxial cable on both sides of the Water temp sender wire ...
I did this , routed my cable in many different positions in my engine bay(as far away from the distributor as possible), I even went so far as to wrap aluminum around all the wire and probe to insulate it from this radiation.... NOTHING WORKS

So what happens to the guage when it starts freaking out because the interference gets picked up? It shuts off .... So you may be driving along .. and all of a sudden you notice your car starts overheating because your pump has been off for 10 minutes ... Or mabey you radiator hoses pop off and all of your coolant gets drained because the pressure in your coolant system is so high because of the overheating... This sometimes happens every 30 seconds or every 5 minutes ... completely random.. anytime.
The only way to reset the guage is to pull to the side of the road and turn your car off and on ....

Until I figure out to solve the EMI/Rf problems I will be stuck using a switch // and turning the water pump on and off again, on and off again, ect.....

Other problems ... Intake pipe, or KN filter might get in the way of Electric water pump which sits right next to the distributor on the lower radiator hose.

Some good things -- 3-5 whp gains throughout the powerband .. more up top...nice...
Car is really efficient at cooling and is great to cool down between runs at the track or pulls between the dyno...
Reliability is not an issue , this is a very simple 12 volt pump... well made, will last ...
Power drain not an issue ... this thing does not drain much power....

Some weird observations=
When cruising at constant speeds on the highway for longer periods of time air pockets can occur unlike the stock setup because of the placement of the electric water pump inline which will cause your car to run a little hotter than normal ...
solution speed up a little and slow down .. elimanating the pocket...

I tried many different methods either mechanically or electrically to no avail.... they either did not work , weren't consistant enough , or posed long term reliability concerns ... I even spoke with the head tech at c/r racing ... their check valve/ thermostat is not the solution ....
Here is the answer , an on/off switch connected to 12 v acc, fused before the electric pump , the way mezierre intended ...

The electric water pump is best suited for imho..
1) Track car
2) Forced induction when the engine is severly overheating on track car
3) I have seen it even used to circulate the water in a air-water intercooler succesfully for the resevoir...

anyone else I suggest staying away....

Kwuaymaikrup

Haha...I have read that post before. Well my block is deckplated so anything else won't work. I have to run the electric water pump. Do you think that the stock bypass is large enough? There has to be a way to make this work. Maybe lowering voltage on the pump to get it to run similiar outputs to the stock pump??? IDK

dasher

Actually their is one manufacturer who makes an electric water pump with a electronically controlled variable speed electric motor which attempts change the motor speed based upon need: Davies Craig Electric Water Pump.

http://www.autospeed.com tested one of these units and results were so unfavorable that the manufacturer threatened to sue the magazine if they published the article ... unfortunately we won't find out why this design doesn't work very well.

If your deckplated motor is made for a track car then don't worry about the details ... use a simple switch ... if you are going to use this for a street car then i feel very verry sorry for you... I tried many different mechanical, and electronic means to make this work well for the street to no avail over months .... good luck - you'll need it .

Kwuaymaikrup

Thanks man...unfortunatelly this will be somewhat street driven. I will find a way to make it work! I have to. Thanks for your help.

-Ryan

dasher

best of luck... If you have any questions on some of the other things ive tried don't hesitate to ask..

lazerus

too bad you dont have a standalone, you could have the ECU control the water pump on a temperature basis....

Kwuaymaikrup

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazerus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">too bad you dont have a standalone, you could have the ECU control the water pump on a temperature basis....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have Hondata...but I don't think that would work. Or will it?