what would you bore to?
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From: somewhere in the valley,, BC.
Re: what would you bore to? (DroppedGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DroppedGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah and so does 84mm</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinking too.
A motor is something you can take from chassis to chassis, and I plan to do that with this setup. Of course, if the **** really hits the fan, no amount of boring can save a block.
Does anyone know why it's not recommended (by many import motor builders) to go past 86mm?
Yeah and so does 84mm</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinking too.
A motor is something you can take from chassis to chassis, and I plan to do that with this setup. Of course, if the **** really hits the fan, no amount of boring can save a block.
Does anyone know why it's not recommended (by many import motor builders) to go past 86mm?
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From: Portland, OR
Re: what would you bore to? (DroppedGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DroppedGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah and so does 84mm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go 84mm, that will give you a nice big bore, with some room to grow if there are problem like you melt a piston!
liam
Yeah and so does 84mm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go 84mm, that will give you a nice big bore, with some room to grow if there are problem like you melt a piston!
liam
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Ankeny, Iowa, u.s.
ok... you tell me im wrong for thinking it's cooling, but you gave absolutely no other reason...i think that if you want to argue then you should have a point... and who is talking about a naturally aspirated setup?
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From: Cincinnati, OH, USA
Re: (turbofodo)
Benson sleeves and 81mm bore here 
Instead of gaining an extra 15 hp with a heavier rotating assembly (not by much, i know) I can just raise the boost 1 psi haha j/k. To each his own.
Instead of gaining an extra 15 hp with a heavier rotating assembly (not by much, i know) I can just raise the boost 1 psi haha j/k. To each his own.
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From: st pete, fl, usa
Re: what would you bore to? (liam821)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Go 84mm, that will give you a nice big bore, with some room to grow if there are problem like you melt a piston!
liam</TD></TR></TABLE>
Way I see it is, if i really mess something up i will bore and build it NA and get another motor to build and boost!
Go 84mm, that will give you a nice big bore, with some room to grow if there are problem like you melt a piston!
liam</TD></TR></TABLE>
Way I see it is, if i really mess something up i will bore and build it NA and get another motor to build and boost!
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From: sleepyEG made me change my avatar
Re: what would you bore to? (hypa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 81mm are 280 grams, and the 84mm are 286 grams.
Is it really that big of a difference, especially when running aftermarket rods and studs?
I'm thinking that an additional 15hp would be worth the small addition in weight, but I could be wrong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
and I would like to live forever! I say do what ever you want. If you want more powr then you know the answer.
Is it really that big of a difference, especially when running aftermarket rods and studs?
I'm thinking that an additional 15hp would be worth the small addition in weight, but I could be wrong.
</TD></TR></TABLE>and I would like to live forever! I say do what ever you want. If you want more powr then you know the answer.
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From: washington, dc, usa
Re: (g2turbo)
I went 84.5mm and run over a bar daily with a 60-1. Works well. I can still go up to 85mm if I need to one day. Why "stay at 81mm ... you can make great power at 81mm" when you can go to 84mm at the same or close to it cost and make even greater power?
Go big. You won't regret it.
Go big. You won't regret it.
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From: Islip, CA, USA
Re: (99blackcivicSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why wouldn't you bore a <U>AFTERMARKET SLEEVED</U> block over 82???????????? none is talking about stock sleeves aftermarket sleeves like GE, AEBS, Darton. those sleeves have been tested up to 55+ PSI so there should be no worries about running 20psi on them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are aware that just becuase 20psi of air pressure comes into the combution chamber, that does not mean that 20psi of force is the maximum exerted on the sleeved when combution takes place...
Why wouldn't you bore a <U>AFTERMARKET SLEEVED</U> block over 82???????????? none is talking about stock sleeves aftermarket sleeves like GE, AEBS, Darton. those sleeves have been tested up to 55+ PSI so there should be no worries about running 20psi on them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are aware that just becuase 20psi of air pressure comes into the combution chamber, that does not mean that 20psi of force is the maximum exerted on the sleeved when combution takes place...
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From: The Route, NY, United States
Re: (turbofodo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbofodo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the factory b-series has iron ductile sleeves...... so what kind of sleeves do you have?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually stock honda sleeves are a shitty, cast iron type... also typically refferred to as "Gray Iron."
when you say "Iron Ductile" I'm assuming you are refferring to Ductile Iron.. which is a very strong grade of Iron, with many of the same properties as a hardened steel... This is the material that most atermarket sleeve companies (including Darton) make there sleeves out of.
just FYI.
-Mike
</TD></TR></TABLE>
actually stock honda sleeves are a shitty, cast iron type... also typically refferred to as "Gray Iron."
when you say "Iron Ductile" I'm assuming you are refferring to Ductile Iron.. which is a very strong grade of Iron, with many of the same properties as a hardened steel... This is the material that most atermarket sleeve companies (including Darton) make there sleeves out of.
just FYI.
-Mike
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From: Vila Velha, Brasil
Re: (AngelTeg)
I'm going with 81mm also. I figured it like this. The more displacement (83, 84mm...) the more low end torque the motor will produce, right? With my stock motor @9lbs, traction is already an issue. I could see it only getting worst with more low end torque. Unless you it's a full race car, i would stay at 81mm. And for those of you that disagree...hey...we all have our different opinion.
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From: Trinidad, W.I.
Re: (AngelTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbofodo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok... you tell me im wrong for thinking it's cooling, but you gave absolutely no other reason...</TD></TR></TABLE>
One word: COST
Producing an open-deck block is much more inexpensive... it's a single cast, saves time and quite a bit of money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AngelTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when you say "Iron Ductile" I'm assuming you are refferring to Ductile Iron.. which is a very strong grade of Iron...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that's why he referenced the fact that his sleeves are 'iron ductile'....that was established early in the thread.
As to why most builders don't recommend going over 86mm ? One of the probable reasons is that the larger you bore the cylinder, the more force is exerted by the piston onto the cylinder wall. As you increase the bore, you alter the angle of the incidence of rod/wrist pin/piston combination to the cylinder wall, so yes, you would create more power, but at the cost of increased wear on the engine.... vastly increased.... tear it apart early and you'd probably notice increased chances of scarring or the cylinder wall going 'out of round' much quicker than a smaller bore.
On top of that, at such a large bore, you begin to lose headgasket area between cylinders, making the sealing properties of the headgasket drop due to the loss of h/g area. Put simply, the sleeves can hold all the pressure in the world, but if the headgasket is unable to seal well enough... you'll blow them every few passes.
One word: COST
Producing an open-deck block is much more inexpensive... it's a single cast, saves time and quite a bit of money.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AngelTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
when you say "Iron Ductile" I'm assuming you are refferring to Ductile Iron.. which is a very strong grade of Iron...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that's why he referenced the fact that his sleeves are 'iron ductile'....that was established early in the thread.
As to why most builders don't recommend going over 86mm ? One of the probable reasons is that the larger you bore the cylinder, the more force is exerted by the piston onto the cylinder wall. As you increase the bore, you alter the angle of the incidence of rod/wrist pin/piston combination to the cylinder wall, so yes, you would create more power, but at the cost of increased wear on the engine.... vastly increased.... tear it apart early and you'd probably notice increased chances of scarring or the cylinder wall going 'out of round' much quicker than a smaller bore.
On top of that, at such a large bore, you begin to lose headgasket area between cylinders, making the sealing properties of the headgasket drop due to the loss of h/g area. Put simply, the sleeves can hold all the pressure in the world, but if the headgasket is unable to seal well enough... you'll blow them every few passes.
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From: somewhere in the valley,, BC.
Re: (AngelTeg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AngelTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
actually stock honda sleeves are a shitty, cast iron type... also typically refferred to as "Gray Iron."
when you say "Iron Ductile" I'm assuming you are refferring to Ductile Iron.. which is a very strong grade of Iron, with many of the same properties as a hardened steel... This is the material that most atermarket sleeve companies (including Darton) make there sleeves out of.
just FYI.
-Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is worth repeating.
Thanks Mike.
actually stock honda sleeves are a shitty, cast iron type... also typically refferred to as "Gray Iron."
when you say "Iron Ductile" I'm assuming you are refferring to Ductile Iron.. which is a very strong grade of Iron, with many of the same properties as a hardened steel... This is the material that most atermarket sleeve companies (including Darton) make there sleeves out of.
just FYI.
-Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is worth repeating.
Thanks Mike.
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