What would 20w-50 do????
Its a bandaid for an oil problem. Running thicker oil will make it harder to pump, so technically openning the window to oiling problems at higher rpm's. There's a reason everyone runs 10w-30, stock or modified - these engines are designed for it.
As long as you have 15psi at idle and 50psi at 3k (d16; may be a bit diff for a B) you shouldn't mess with it.
As long as you have 15psi at idle and 50psi at 3k (d16; may be a bit diff for a B) you shouldn't mess with it.
i know quite a few high hp hondas that run 20w-50 in high hp cars. i have for 5+ years and dont have any oil problems...
i agree, its too thick for cold weather
i agree, its too thick for cold weather
you have an overhead cam engine that needs to see oil in the head quickly at startup. the oil pump cannot pump thick oil to the head fast enough on startup so everytime you start your motor your putting wear on your cams, cam journals and everything else that likes oil up top...its not a good idea
Though a lot of these posts are stating the facts, the short of the story is this: Thicker oil will cause extra wear on the motor on cold starts -- is a real sure no no in cold weather / winter -- but DOES surely increase the life of the motor under certain circumstances. Contrary to the one post, thicker 20-50 is BETTER for sustained high RPM. Reason being, it is much more resistant to breaking down and allowing metal to contact metal when the motor is revving hard. For a street car, It's really up to you. I used to run it, but I don't bother anymore. If you do nothing but beat the crap out of your car and slam rev limiters, go for it. Otherwise, if it's your driver, everyone is right, stick with a 30, or maybe a 40 weight.
Matt
Matt
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GetawayInMoscow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally run 5w40 Rotella T diesel oil</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you mean 15w40, i do too
if you mean 15w40, i do too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PA MATT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you mean 15w40, i do too</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I run the 5w40 synthetic
if you mean 15w40, i do too</TD></TR></TABLE>
No I run the 5w40 synthetic
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can i use non-synthetic oil in my turbo motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
yes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your engine will take engine will take longer to reach full boost, you lose power at the wheels also, the post above me is accurate as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's funny. I just got done dyno'ing a car switching from 15w50 to 5w30 with negligible power differences at the wheels.
That's funny. I just got done dyno'ing a car switching from 15w50 to 5w30 with negligible power differences at the wheels.
i ran 20w50 in my d16 for 4 years even during the winter..until i swapped a gsr motor..The d16 had 73k on when i bought it and 140k when i took it out. It smoked a little on startup ever since i had it(valveseals)..
Ive only run castrol gtx 5w30 in my b18c. I would run higher weight in high mile motor due to clearances being wider it wont really matter. As to putting more wear on cams etc on startup, theres always an oil film on everything in your motor so 2 seconds of no oil pressure more than likely wont hurt anything..
Ive only run castrol gtx 5w30 in my b18c. I would run higher weight in high mile motor due to clearances being wider it wont really matter. As to putting more wear on cams etc on startup, theres always an oil film on everything in your motor so 2 seconds of no oil pressure more than likely wont hurt anything..
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by david@didrace.com »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's funny. I just got done dyno'ing a car switching from 15w50 to 5w30 with negligible power differences at the wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And?
That's funny. I just got done dyno'ing a car switching from 15w50 to 5w30 with negligible power differences at the wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And?
I always ran my built D16 with 20w-50 in the summer. My bearing clearances were a bit "loose", .0015, and it helped give me a bit more pressure when it was real hot. Definitely did not have any bad effects, that motor still runs after 50K boosted miles.
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