SergieL

I noticed today on my way to work that my oil presure gage was showing 20 at idle after warmed up and about 30 driving at 60mph. I added oil and it went up to 25 at idle and 40psi at crusing. I tried steeping on the padal to see if it will go beyond 40 but it didn't. Few days ago ive seen it go to 60 but not today. Should I be worried? Maybe I didn't add enough oil. I added half a quart. it's a turbo b16 and I'm in boost a lot so that burns oil. Car was too hot to see the correct oil reading on dipstick so I added half a quart of 5w-30 fullsentetic because thats what the gas station had but the motor had 10w-30 fullsentetic. Thanks

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

"in boost a lot" doesn't necessarily mean you're automatically consuming more oil. It all depends upon what rpm you're at in some gears that give the hint. It also depends upon WHICH synthetic oil that you're using. Mobile 1 over the counter tends to run really thin, which gives a slightly different reading than say Rotella T6 or Brad Penn.
oil pressure location also plays a factor, but not a large one.

Typically, anywhere from 60-75psi is what b-series stock oil pumps deliver at full throttle, regardless of gear . Its cold start you want to make sure you're over that mark
stays consistent.

At a stop light with the car at full operating temperature, 20-25psi is about correct.

Honestly, check the oil that you're using, and if its time for an oil change, perform a full oil change with the correct amount, accounting for the turbo, and try it again the next day after a nice cold start.

SergieL

I added Mobil 1, oil will be changed next week. It didn't want to go over 40 psi after 4k rpms. It stayed at 40psi until I let of the pedal at 7k Rpms, I've seen it go up to 80 before

SergieL

So it's been cooling down for 2 hours and I checked the oil and had to add a bit. I started the car and it went up to 70 psi and began to decrease little by little and as I reved the engine it wound go up to 80psi and that's with a warm motor. It didn't cool off all the way yet, motor was warm when I felt it with my hand. So I'm guessing that the cold start up oil psi is fine but still don't understand why it wouldn't go over 40 psi at 6k rpm. I couldnt drive the car because I'm still at work and I will see if it got better when I'm drivin after i get off from work.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

when I mean "warm" I simply mean operating temperature, in which the coolant has cycled through the engine at least once (an open thermostat).

If the throttle is under light load and at 6K rpm, that makes sense for it to be on the lower side. So I'm just curious as to what amount of throttle (engine load while the car is moving) you're using when going to 6K. That may be harder to determine while driving than you think.

I'm thinking honestly when you change over, its time to change oils COMPLETELY. No Mobil 1 at all.. something with some good zinc at a good weight. Is this a stock engine? (meaning are the journal and rod bearings original) or is this a built engine? Oil consumption may be from valve seals or other issues that you're not seeing.

SergieL

It's completely fully built and sleeved motor. What oil and weight should I go with?

SergieL

Just went for a ride and everything seems to be working fine now. Idle at 30 psi and normal driving 40-70psi

SergieL

Also, a lot of blue smoke is coming out of my exhust it's not consistent. Usually in boost or when the car idled for a bit and I drive away. I have speed factory catch can set up to the block and valve cover.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

So, the blue smoke is during acceleration only? anything regarding smoke in deceleration?
The could be anything from valve older valve seals, to bad oil return or oil feed setup. If its not consistent, its hard to tell what that could be from..

As for oil weight, I typically go by the amount of ZDDP additive I want, what fuel I'm running (Non-E85, vs. something else), if I'm running a turbocharger and bearing clearances to determine specifically what oil to use, and weight.

Because I like for the thrust bearings on the turbo to be as robust as possible, with good zinc content, I tend to go with higher viscosity 10w-30,10w-40 Brad Penn "Green" or Valvoline VR-1 "Blue" oil. If running E85, I'd be using the Shell Rotella T6 15w-50.. But again, these are all my preferences for my turbo applications.

The other companies that have good success are Amsoil, certain Royal Purple Blends, and Castrol Edge. Which is even more expensive than the Brad Penn or Valvoline.

So, there are a lot of good possibilities. But in no situation would I run Mobil Synthetic, nor would I even use it at 5w-30. It just breaks down really fast and doesn't have the chemicals or processes that (at least to me) are favorable for turbochargers being abused.

SergieL

Thanks I will use brad penn 10w-30 full sentetic

I'm going to take few pic of the feed and return line and post em soon

SergieL

Ok, so the car smokes at idle, on deceleration and when I shift gears. Doesn't smoke when I accelerate. It has a loose set up, The piston to cylinder wall clearance is .05 looser than oem so it's supposed to smoke when it's cold but not when warmed up. Here's few pictures. You will be able to see some burn oil on hot side of the turbo under the bolt.

SergieL

DDTECH

You should only be running oils made for FLAT tappet camshafts.

VR-1 being most available and what we recommend with our camshafts.

BradPenn is also great as well. Do NOT run mobil1 in honda cars running stiffer springs and bigger camshafts.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Is that one of those God forsaken oil feed restrictor flange with the tiny hole drilled in at the bottom, and male 1/8th open fitting connected to your feed line? If so, get that damned thing off as soon as humanly possible.
On Garrett styled turbochargers, those cause more oil starvation than any other phenomenon I've witnessed.. I'm investigating a Garrett turbo now that had one of these kinugawa-crap fittings on them, and blued the shaft to a point of warpage.. that alone could be a reason for problems at the turbo for oil smoke..

Now for the oil return :-(

SergieL

I'm sorry but I'm not following what you saying. You saying that I should change the oil feed line? Maybe add a restrictor to it?

SergieL

Scratch that, so I need to check the flange to see if its the restrictor with a tiny hole, and if it is I need to remove and just have plain open feed line so the turbo wouldnt starve?

SergieL

Here's a picture of the return line. It had a pretty good curve that will return the oil.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes, but probably not unrestricted unless you're a Holset or Borg-Warner. Restrictor use will depend upon what oil pressure is at cold start. Anything above 60-75psi uses .060" to .065" restrictor for journal bearing Garrett, precision, and turbonetics. Which turbo do you have?

SergieL

I got the precision 6266 turbo w ported housing and billed wheel. Cold start is at about 80 psi

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You need more than likely a 1/4NPT .060" restrictor.. too much oil is splaying in the cartridge at that pressure, hence the oil oozing out of the cartridge side.

Take off the flange and show it's underside.

SergieL

I'll take it off tomorrow and take a picture of the restrictor. So right now I'm getting too much oil with the restricttor or not enough oil?

Is the 1/4NPT .060 is it going to bolt on my feed line or I need to get another feed line?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Your feed line is female, the restrictor is a male-male fitting. One to turbo, the other to the feed line.

If what I think you have is that bastard flange, it's starving it..

If it's the other type with full opening at the bottom that is un restricted, it's too much at 80psi. Both can cause an oil smoke.One symptom just has more damaging effects than the other..

SergieL

So my next step is to install the 1/4NPT .060 restrictor?

I can't find one anywhere online, closest thing is 1/8 restrictor

SergieL

Found it, is this the correct one?

SergieL

Will this flange with resister work?