B18C Hatch

Right i fianlly have enough money to get my setup started, First all i want to do is run 6psi max and then get internals but i need to get the bare minimum to run FI so i will finally finish my project instead of buying other crap. This setup is for a B18C in an EG and want to get 400whp in the very end.

Garrett T3/TO4E (.63A/R)
Exhaust Mani (equal length)
Tial 38mm waste gate
Down pipe
PWR 24x6x3.5 Intercooler with piping
Turbo XS RFL bov
Oil return lines
home depot boost controller
couples/t-bolts and gaskets

After these i will get AEM EMS, injectors and then Manley rods/JE pistons and sleeves and ARP head studs.

But my main concern is if i forgot some piece for bare minimum, and if i will need to run more fuel even if i plan on 6psi max until the EMS?

Thanks

twkdCD595

yes you will need some sort of fuel upgrades/ management, even for only 6 psi.

psileepR

id also recommend you getting a reliable boost controller and not a home depot home made one. If your going to invest that much into your car dont go cheap on something like that.

jdm_boost

You want to get the brass fittings to tee off your oil feed line from the oil sending unit on the back of the motor (from home depot, plumbing section), a vortech fmu ($220), upgraded intank (not inline) fuel pump (255 lph, costs about $125), boost gauge, and either a missing link ($75) or 3 check valves from the fish store ($6) for your map sensor. You'll need to weld a fitting on your oil pan for the oil return line, if you want to reduce downtime find an oil pan from a junkyard and modify that one. Make sure your boost gauge is properly hooked up before the turbo install so you can catch a possible overboosting problem which could blow your motor. Make sure you have a muffler shop weld a flexpipe on before your catalytic converter so you don't crack your manifold or downpipe. Change your oil w/ synthetic and fill up with premium before the install and make sure the oil feed fitting on the turbo is straight up and down when it's mounted (you'll probably have to rotate the turbo), you'll probably need an elbow fitting for the line (home depot). Oh and don't worry about a boost controller for right now. Whatever pressure the wastegate is set at that's what you're gonna run so verify what it is before you accidentally boost more than you were planning (my friend did that with his 'lude and blew it up- 15psi on an untuned stock block will do that). It has a screw on top where you can adjust boost (another reason to not bother with the boost controller). Aword of advice, don't bother with the AEM EMS get Hondata. Several reasons, it's a lot cheaper, easier to tune (you don't have to worry about spending a few hours on getting things like idle correct, which saves $), you can still read trouble codes, and I know some people who are having problems with their EMS. They are minor but when you drop $1300 for one it better run better than right you know what I'm saying? Hondata s200 w/ boost capability runs $500 plus you can get a base map for your setup. Just because it's cheap don't write it off, my resleeved B16a powered eg puts down 362 @ the wheels and my buddy puts out 497 @ the wheels w/ his resleeved B20/vtec both using hondata. Don't get me wrong, the EMS is a VERY nice system but for your setup it's overkill and you'd be throwing away money that could be put towards an engine build.