What all do I need to do with 10lbs. boost on JRSC?
I currently have a 2000 GSR with 50k on the motor. The internals are stock. My current set up is 6lbs. of boost, JRSC boost timing controller, upgraded JRSC fuel pump, JRSC map sensor, shorty air intake, DC sports header, Tanabe Racing Hyper Medallion exhaust, MSD spark plug wires, NGK plugs, JRSC colder thermostat, JRSC FMU, and a JRSC fuel pressure regulator. My question is about obtaining 10lbs. with a CRV pulley. What belts do I have to use with this set up? Can my alternator and alt. pulley handle this load? Can I still use stock fuel rail and injectors (I've seen it done in a recent Honda Tuning feature)? And do I need some sort of EMS like from Hondata or AEM? Or will I be fine if I just get JRSC water-injection liquid intercooler? Will not be driven hard everyday, and I've heard that stock Honda blocks can take up to 10lbs. Thanks if anyone can please help. And no, I can't get a turbo........yet. Just wanto to have some fun with JRSC for now.
You can get away with NOT having a Hondata provided you get the water injection. Word to the wise, Get it from Aquamist (1S system) and pay several hundred less than the JR price. The ONLY thing extra you get with the JR kit is the cool red anodizing. Also, look for one used. I see them time to time and thats how I got mine.
My experience: 10 PSI for a week now with a Hondata (tuned for 6 PSI) and water/methanol injection. In a word, IT ROCKS. Oops. thats 2 words.
Pulls like a Raped Ape from idle to redline and NO detonation. I haven't seen intake temps much above 110-120 with the water/meth spraying. IMHO, The water injection is the ONLY thing that makes a higher boost JRSC competative.
I HIGHLY recommend the Hondata also but if you have to choose one thing to buy first get the water injection.
I'm going to upgrade to the 2S system to see if I can use the water more eficiently and because I got a deal on the MF2 controler but you can get away with the 1S just fine (Just be sure you keep the water filled!)
P.S. If you have the USDM DC Sports header I would recommend opening up the collector to 2.5" or swapping it with a header that has a 2.5" (a high flow, 2.5" cat as well) You will find a lot of power with that mod at 10 PSI
Mike
My experience: 10 PSI for a week now with a Hondata (tuned for 6 PSI) and water/methanol injection. In a word, IT ROCKS. Oops. thats 2 words.
Pulls like a Raped Ape from idle to redline and NO detonation. I haven't seen intake temps much above 110-120 with the water/meth spraying. IMHO, The water injection is the ONLY thing that makes a higher boost JRSC competative.
I HIGHLY recommend the Hondata also but if you have to choose one thing to buy first get the water injection.
I'm going to upgrade to the 2S system to see if I can use the water more eficiently and because I got a deal on the MF2 controler but you can get away with the 1S just fine (Just be sure you keep the water filled!)
P.S. If you have the USDM DC Sports header I would recommend opening up the collector to 2.5" or swapping it with a header that has a 2.5" (a high flow, 2.5" cat as well) You will find a lot of power with that mod at 10 PSI
Mike
I have 98gsr with jrsc runing 10psi whih dyno 240whp 171ft
First of all, I would not suggest to change stock crank pully. There are some other way to run 10-11 psi and in order to run 10-11 psi, you might also need to think about heat problem and you also need to upgrade your fuel injector.
1) Actually, your set up and modification is pretty good already, but to run 10-11 psi, I strongly suggest water injection to reduce heat and timing retard problem. I have good experience with water injection, with injection I gain 15 whp to 20whp,dyno proved.
2) 310 fuel injector is good and enough for 8 psi, but 10-11 psi you need bigger one. you can use DSM 450 and hack it if you have apexi safc.
3)There are some backwork about runing crv pully, I suggest buy endyn or MVM stepper pully(2 psi) and 3"8 nose pully(8 psi) instead of crv crank pully.
4) I would go with hondata in stead of AEM' ems even though I believe AEM one is much better, that is because lots people have hondata with jrsc tuning experiences already, which will reduce lots of tuning problem.
5) don't need to upgrade fuel rail
6) 3" cat-back you may need it later but not now
I have some dyno number on different set up and time slip, if you interesting you could mail to me "willie_su2166@yahoo.com.tw"
First of all, I would not suggest to change stock crank pully. There are some other way to run 10-11 psi and in order to run 10-11 psi, you might also need to think about heat problem and you also need to upgrade your fuel injector.
1) Actually, your set up and modification is pretty good already, but to run 10-11 psi, I strongly suggest water injection to reduce heat and timing retard problem. I have good experience with water injection, with injection I gain 15 whp to 20whp,dyno proved.
2) 310 fuel injector is good and enough for 8 psi, but 10-11 psi you need bigger one. you can use DSM 450 and hack it if you have apexi safc.
3)There are some backwork about runing crv pully, I suggest buy endyn or MVM stepper pully(2 psi) and 3"8 nose pully(8 psi) instead of crv crank pully.
4) I would go with hondata in stead of AEM' ems even though I believe AEM one is much better, that is because lots people have hondata with jrsc tuning experiences already, which will reduce lots of tuning problem.
5) don't need to upgrade fuel rail
6) 3" cat-back you may need it later but not now
I have some dyno number on different set up and time slip, if you interesting you could mail to me "willie_su2166@yahoo.com.tw"
hey John,
I know you have decent knowledge abot jrsc
I have some think what to ask.
fuel upgraded already, water injected, Thermal header, Thermal 2.25 cat-back. and with 10 psi with 4 degree retarded why I only dyno 240whp and 171ft.a/f 12.1 can I make it better, any tuning suggestion? such in/ex cam degree or....
thanks for helping
I know you have decent knowledge abot jrsc
I have some think what to ask.
fuel upgraded already, water injected, Thermal header, Thermal 2.25 cat-back. and with 10 psi with 4 degree retarded why I only dyno 240whp and 171ft.a/f 12.1 can I make it better, any tuning suggestion? such in/ex cam degree or....
thanks for helping
E-mail me and I will give you some suggestions. I have made 255-260WHP at 10PSi on a GSR with no intercooler.
I will try to help.
I will try to help.
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