Nope, i had it installed & was going to run 15psi on e85 on a built 11:5 comp block. Unfortunately a HT member sold me a said to be mint block that had internal damages & was scraped for parts. I lucked out because the block was physically damaged on the outside during shipment & was able to collect the insurance payment from ups. I decided to start fresh w/ a sleeved block an after that realised I had a block capable of supporting 500+whp so why not build for it. Sold the s/c before ever running it and am going a2w turbo lsvtec.

Pics:

 

That is sick...I really envy that...are the bits anadized or sand blasted painted in vht?
Anything left over parts? Like crv pulley and smal pulley and belt lol.
My engine doesn't look like that at all more oem vortech pic to follow

 

Just seen your build thread awesome...u mechanic? That is handy.
Some things I really want to do too lol...I just was thinking to do that s2k conversion too, but I need to buy convert or box I'm not skilled enough...but how did you do the milage reset or adjust?
Also I noticed how does you aftercooler worked I have where you coil blaster is a black reservoir bottle with coolant where did you locate it?
How do you change the coolant if you want to fresh antifreeze in?
So many question to ask lol...you so lucky that you have a good choice of parts here where I live not much performance there is but twice as much....really want that blow off valve from vortech but too much over here. eBay shipping just ripp you off when it comes shipping to great Britain.
Thanks showing the pics it made my day

 

Ill try to answer all the questions, thanks for the compliments, much appreciated

-Most items were powdercoated however some items were painted gloss black as some items like the exhaust side of the supercharger could not be removed for powdercoat without replacing seals and such, so some items were painted to match

-nope not a mechanic, its been a long process building it up, just taking it 1 step at a time

-s2k conversion requires the cluster, coolant temp converter and speed converter, the rest was just cutting, soldering, and comparing wiring diagrams

-The front mount heat exchanger is mounted where a normal front mount intercooler would be mounted. I went with a 5 gallon cell in my trunk for water/ice and ran the lines under the car to the front mount heat exchanger, then from there to the power cooler and back to the water cell. The oem unit keeps the pump and hosing up front but i wanted a larger cooling capacity so went with a 5 gallon cell for the trunk

-my resevoir bottle was mounted near the fuse box

-if i need to change or flush the system I can simply unscrew 1 of the hoses under the car or at the heat exchanger and flip on the external water pump to pump out the access water/coolant I dont want or need to make room for ice

 

Thanks man...for all the info I'm now thinking I have so much to do lol...you see the red bracket near the valve cover ,the bracket used to be blue , what kind of paint u use I looks like it anodised red.
Do you recommend the msd ignition upgrade what do I need?
Also do you recommend to get a super fmu form vortech?
I contacted the company you recommended they have the pulley but it's like 72 for a 6 rib one , I believe I need 4 rib?
Its kinda expensieve and they havent quoted the shipping yet to the united kingdom.
Have a nice day
Thanks again
Any parts left for sale?lol
Steven

 

Sorry was on a little vegas vacation, but none the less

-I used red high temp paint, for primer i used metal etching primer, both just spray paint that can be purchased at your local auto store. You could have it powder coated or anodized but painting it was easier, cheaper & faster for me.

-MSD ignition upgrade is not necessary, im only running it because Ive had it for 6+ years & its still working properly, it would take more time for me to remove it than to keep it on but the OEM ignition has been used for 500+whp on some hondas without issues, for a vortech setup id say its overkill & just keep your oem setup

-the pulley should be a 4 rib pulley, to my knowledge they didnt make a 6 rib honda pulley but the price sounds about right

-no i do not recommend the fmu at all, its the first thing I threw out, get a real fuel management system like hondata, neptune, or another decent tuning solution & have the car dyno tuned

-nope sorry Ive pretty much sold everything from the old setup minus some pistons and misc odds & ends

 

Hey mate hope you won loads of bucks...at least an engine conversion lol.
But maybe you not the gambling type...really just a vacation, some day i will have to go to las Vegas if funds and time permitted.
Yeah the pulley price is fine but the charge me almost the same for shipping to the united kingdom, surely it's not that much if it was 20-30$ I would order?no one want to order for me.
A few more questions of how change the coolest on the system as I bought myself a koyo rad so I have change all the coolent in to fresh coolent, the after charge cooler runs on the same coolent as the rad is that right? I will take pic of my charger now and let you see what you think.

 

Here is my engine. Can you tell me on second pic how to change the coolent in that black reservoir and also what is the connection for with the red cap on it?
In 3rd pic exceive oil coming out how come solution?
I'm thinking to put a boost gauge in my car but where is the best place to put the boost sensor?
Hey digital thanks formyour time for answering question, what is your name?

 

Thanks, my name is Rich

Where is your water pump mounted? How is it wired? Wired by switch to turn on/off or wired to run when the car is primed etc?

I would just turn the water pump on, disconnect 1 hose from the reservoir or the easiest spot to remove it and drain as needed...the pump will push the water/coolant out of the system & you can refill as necessary.

Honestly I am not sure what that spot w/red cap is for. Mine did not have that port & I did not use the black reservoir....I used a 5 gallon water cell in my trunk.

As for the boost gauge, you"ll just need to T/tap it into a vacuum line.

Engine bay looks good! Any dyno graphs yet?

 

Here is mine on the Dyno

 

Justin some differences in my set up do you know what that conection for on my second photo.
I can see on your picture that near your charger is a red hose connected to it.
I have hole but mines is locked off , any reason for that?

 

Oh nice bra I really want that too? You have bra on bonnet too?
Where you can u buy?

 

Hey rich, my name is Steve , yeah water pump is turned on when you turn your ignition on, I understand now.
Where the hell is the vacuum line doh lol
I have dyno but it's all over the place in my opion,made about 280 , 168 torque...b honest not really what expected not good no smooth power line.
I'm still running a s200 hondata so I do believe is a big reason for not running well.
I have also apexi and s300 ecu s spare don't know which one to use yet, leaning towards s300

 

The red hose on the charger is part of the oil line set up that came with te kit... I got the bra from a friend of mine that just had it laying around. It was brand new and offered to sale it for $100 but then told me I could have it of he used my camera for the weekend, so I got the bra for free

 

Likely an overflow port, I assume that is your expansion tank?

 

Yeah I know now but is just on the other side I noticed.
Do you where you can buy that bra?

 

Digital sol how did you remove the aircon esspecially the compressor near the header the charger belt is running on the air con pulley??? Is that right?? Help....