very annoying idle problem, need help.
well you guys probably know the symptoms car idles at about 2k when i start it up, then once it warms up idle jumps from 1k-2k . ive done a search but all the problems are for b16's or newer motors with fast idle valves etc. i have a zc.
ive checked for vacum leaks
sprayed every vac hose, connection, joint, gasket area with carb cleaner to see if there was a leak. found nothing
tried adjusting the tps, did nothing.
tried cleaning the throttle body/intake manifold. did nothing
checked/bled coolant. did nothing
sometimes i get a code 1 (oxygen content) so i replaced it. did nothing and i sometimes still get the code. i even turned down my FPR all the way thinking it was getting too much gas. made no difference
what else could it be? my eacv?
its really annoying
somebody help me please
ive checked for vacum leaks
sprayed every vac hose, connection, joint, gasket area with carb cleaner to see if there was a leak. found nothing
tried adjusting the tps, did nothing.
tried cleaning the throttle body/intake manifold. did nothing
checked/bled coolant. did nothing
sometimes i get a code 1 (oxygen content) so i replaced it. did nothing and i sometimes still get the code. i even turned down my FPR all the way thinking it was getting too much gas. made no difference
what else could it be? my eacv?
its really annoying
somebody help me please
so you don't have any IAC valve on your car ? how does it compensate for idles then ...?
idles will vary with temp changes, loads and etc..
I.E. hotter air will give you less dense air, therefore it takes more air to brings up the idle to where it needs to be, vice versa...same goes for AC as an extra load....
most of the time, the IAC screen to the IM is dirty and clogged up therefore the valve is sticking...use a carb cleaner on the screen to see if it may solve it...
idles will vary with temp changes, loads and etc..
I.E. hotter air will give you less dense air, therefore it takes more air to brings up the idle to where it needs to be, vice versa...same goes for AC as an extra load....
most of the time, the IAC screen to the IM is dirty and clogged up therefore the valve is sticking...use a carb cleaner on the screen to see if it may solve it...
well i just tried cleaning the eacv (same thing as iacv) cleaned the screen and inside it. didnt make a difference
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Hey I had the same problem w/ my del sol and my altima... I checked everthing and then I found if your car is a 97 and older, you need to put fuel injector cleaner in it every time you give it an oil change... Once I did that, it never idled crazy again...
its not the injectors they are brand new.
the throttle body gasket is fine too.
WTF!! i just put in a brand new O2 sensor, and i still get code 1 for oxygen content? how is that possible? i even messed with the regulator to try to make it run lean/rich and i still go the code. what the hell??
the throttle body gasket is fine too.
WTF!! i just put in a brand new O2 sensor, and i still get code 1 for oxygen content? how is that possible? i even messed with the regulator to try to make it run lean/rich and i still go the code. what the hell??
the only check engine light i am getting is code 1 which is oxygen content. and i just put a brand new O2 sensor in about 10 minutes ago. tried adjusting the regulator to lean it out or richen it up. makes no difference.
i'll try changing the map sensor anyways.
i'll try changing the map sensor anyways.
shouldnt be a short in the wires. i have the air/fuel gauge wire soldered into the O2 wire. shouldnt be shorted out. i'll check the connections at the ecu
one question, would a pcv valve from a 92 civic vx be different than one on my zc?
with the zc one in it idles about 2200 warming up
with the vx one in it idles about 3500
think the pcv's are different? or is my zc one bad? when i shake it i hear it rattle inside like something is loose, is it supposed to be like that? because when i shake the vx one nothing rattles.
with the zc one in it idles about 2200 warming up
with the vx one in it idles about 3500
think the pcv's are different? or is my zc one bad? when i shake it i hear it rattle inside like something is loose, is it supposed to be like that? because when i shake the vx one nothing rattles.
FITV has a screw in plastic thing under the cover on one end of it. Take the cover off, screw the plastic thing back in, then put cover back on. The plastic screw backs out over time, allowing air to flow through the valve all the time instead of just when it's cold.
WOOHOO!! i fixed it. I had to adjust the TPS then reset the idle screw. idles perfect now at about 700. thanks for all your help guys and girls!
go to http://www.d16a.com there is an article about replacing the TPS. just do the same thing, loosen the screws then move it. best way is to use a voltmeter, get it as close to 0.5 volts as possible.
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