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USMC Honda Guy's - 88' CRX Si Turbocharger build progress
Well first time posting on this thing . I've been creeping for about 6-8 months now and I finally got my car . So I decided to update people on my project that know more than I do so may also like to help along the way .
Picked this turd up about 3 weeks ago.
I'll post more pics from around the car later . Some TLC can be applied to the body of the car. Bondo on that back left fender . A few dents and dings, loose bumper and taillights . Cracked front lip . But nothing crazy .
So two days ago I started to pull out the interior .
Kinda dirty, but hey 88'. Amp was from the previous owner along with a 10" sub. Yep. I'm sure it's not much of a weight difference, but it's a start for where I'm wanting to be. And yes I know people want to preserve these things. But I feel it'd cost more to restore to original. Plus that's not my thing right now in life As of now it's got an LS swap non v. But I'm really considering just getting a GSR long block and building that . Eventually turbo by tax returns lol . The current motor has a problem where it won't just START . It has to be revved to warm it up so it can idle and not shut off . Unknown milage . No leaks or knocks . But like I said not really thinking about keeping it .
Well this is what I've got for . . . Whoever is reading. Plans for the car, a really fun street car that can run with modified Corvettes and what not.
I'll get more pictures on here tomorrow. If anyone has suggestions or knowledge they'd like to share , I'm all ears . Thank you .
Had to edit your thread title as there are a ton of build threads that are going through their paces.
Since this is a tech forum specific to forced induction, please keep all the pictures and information you give relevant to the area of forced induction (Engine, turbo/supercharger, supplemental equipment for turbo/supercharger, and the like).
If you've decided to talk about chassis progress (Stitchwelding, cleaning out, seats, etc) that's better for the Appearance / Cosmetic or Paint & Body forums. You can repost those areas of concern there, and concentrate on the engine tech and other significant areas here.
That way we can help with questions/concerns more easily without having to scroll through a billion photos and irrelevant areas and get to the heart of the matter.
So, what's the purpose of the project? What are you attempting to get out of this build? Street monster? Street/circuit? Circuit? Drag Racing?
Said in the OP he wants to road race modified Vettes.
My recommendation to OP if you're aiming for serious power would be to build an LS/Vtec on the side (completely separate of the engine currently in there) and slap on a Go-Autoworks turbo kit.
What's your budget for this OP? What are your power goals? If you really want to knock out some modified Vettes, you'll need at least 400+WHP most likely, even in a car that weighs that little. You'll need some meaty tires too if you want any hope for traction before the top of 4th gear.
Won't be a cheap build at that point, but it depends on what you really want your goals to be. Go-Autoworks has some excellent turbo kits that can satisfy those goals, but the main issue for you will be building an engine that can survive that power level.
Edit: Also just to re iterate/clarify, I'd recommend building a B18B/LS block for boost rather than GSR. Extra stroke and you'll need forged internals anyway, so no oil squirters. A GSR or B16 head would probably be good though.
Said in the OP he wants to road race modified Vettes.
My recommendation to OP if you're aiming for serious power would be to build an LS/Vtec on the side (completely separate of the engine currently in there) and slap on a Go-Autoworks turbo kit.
What's your budget for this OP? What are your power goals? If you really want to knock out some modified Vettes, you'll need at least 400+WHP most likely, even in a car that weighs that little. You'll need some meaty tires too if you want any hope for traction before the top of 4th gear.
Won't be a cheap build at that point, but it depends on what you really want your goals to be. Go-Autoworks has some excellent turbo kits that can satisfy those goals, but the main issue for you will be building an engine that can survive that power level.
Edit: Also just to re iterate/clarify, I'd recommend building a B18B/LS block for boost rather than GSR. Extra stroke and you'll need forged internals anyway, so no oil squirters. A GSR or B16 head would probably be good though.
Thank you for responding!
Budget for the build 10k. I'm single in the military and all I do is save money. (I don't go out anymore. Just a boring dude) Tools and everything I need are at an on base shop with lifts and what not. So I'm hoping to accomplish 450-500hp like you said.
So you'd recommend an lsv build? I had a friend telling me that I should go this route. But I was under the impression that it'd cost about the same if I went GSR.
Rally = Really? Just making a guess here. Because there is "RALLY".
(You're killing me with this Phone crap.. It's gonna bite ya in the *** when we can't understand your intent... Might cost ya in the long run..)
Anyway - The choice is even the "Hot Parts" (Exhaust manifold / Downpipe / Dumptube) will be crucial, as the difference between drag race and street torque monster may involve the switching out of those expensive parts. For this "in-between", I highly suggest against any Foward facing or "Top Mount" manifolds in your selection process.
Considering your car's weight and the suspension work that you're looking at performing, you're not going to need anymore than about 350-500whp to go after the said "'Vettes" and such. (Chance EG, that statement wasn't in the 1st post of this thread.... But I appreciate the heads up).
Go-Autoworks isn't a bad choice, although their turbocharger choices are a little left to be desired. The cool part is that you can get the "Hot Parts" from Go-Autoworks, and get quality parts from different sources since the flange systems that are commonly used can mate together pretty well.
Rally = Really? Just making a guess here. Because there is "RALLY".
(You're killing me with this Phone crap.. It's gonna bite ya in the *** when we can't understand your intent... Might cost ya in the long run..)
Anyway - The choice is even the "Hot Parts" (Exhaust manifold / Downpipe / Dumptube) will be crucial, as the difference between drag race and street torque monster may involve the switching out of those expensive parts. For this "in-between", I highly suggest against any Foward facing or "Top Mount" manifolds in your selection process.
Considering your car's weight and the suspension work that you're looking at performing, you're not going to need anymore than about 350-500whp to go after the said "'Vettes" and such. (Chance EG, that statement wasn't in the 1st post of this thread.... But I appreciate the heads up).
Go-Autoworks isn't a bad choice, although their turbocharger choices are a little left to be desired. The cool part is that you can get the "Hot Parts" from Go-Autoworks, and get quality parts from different sources since the flange systems that are commonly used can mate together pretty well.
My fault man, I'll read these more carefully before posting.
I understand what you mean between the two (Street and drag). I'm more interested in street between these two.
As far as turbo, any specific setups? Have you bought "full kits" or would you say piecing it together produces better results? Or would this also depend on the motor I'd be running ?
My fault man, I'll read these more carefully before posting.
I understand what you mean between the two (Street and drag). I'm more interested in street between these two.
As far as turbo, any specific setups? Have you bought "full kits" or would you say piecing it together produces better results? Or would this also depend on the motor I'd be running ?
I gotcha...
1) If it's street, stay away from the Top Mount stuff, as well as the "Ramhorns" if you can, please.
2) There's a couple that have come to mind, bear in mind they are with LS/VTEC and GS-R engines too. The turbocharger choice does change between just a B16, and a GS-R or LS/VTEC. If you're going to spend the money get a GS-R as you'll have the most options with the least headache. Keep B16 as a spare motor or something.
3) Dark_Teg's CRX build comes to mind https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...3212407/page4/, Also boosted94gsr has a clean setup as well. No Top Mount, no Ramhorn, and very clean and reliable. https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...build-3279769/
4) Piecing together only works if you know exactly what you're doing. The best course of action is to get Manifold/downpipe/dumptube from one location and get the rest from others, making sure that the right turbocharger selected fits both the purpose of the build and the exhaust manifold works with the turbocharger. I've always said this on setups... Get the rest of the setup to work around the engine and turbocharger pre-selected before anything else. Those should be the 1st 2 choices one makes outside of any "KIT", otherwise, you cause major problems later.
1) If it's street, stay away from the Top Mount stuff, as well as the "Ramhorns" if you can, please.
2) There's a couple that have come to mind, bear in mind they are with LS/VTEC and GS-R engines too. The turbocharger choice does change between just a B16, and a GS-R or LS/VTEC. If you're going to spend the money get a GS-R as you'll have the most options with the least headache. Keep B16 as a spare motor or something.
3) Dark_Teg's CRX build comes to mind https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...3212407/page4/, Also boosted94gsr has a clean setup as well. No Top Mount, no Ramhorn, and very clean and reliable. https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...build-3279769/
4) Piecing together only works if you know exactly what you're doing. The best course of action is to get Manifold/downpipe/dumptube from one location and get the rest from others, making sure that the right turbocharger selected fits both the purpose of the build and the exhaust manifold works with the turbocharger. I've always said this on setups... Get the rest of the setup to work around the engine and turbocharger pre-selected before anything else. Those should be the 1st 2 choices one makes outside of any "KIT", otherwise, you cause major problems later.
So after building and turbo a time is the final piece. But I'm under the impression that it is not possible to tune an obd2 motor.
Is this correct?
Or is it not a problem to just convert it to obd1?
So after building and turbo a time is the final piece. But I'm under the impression that it is not possible to tune an obd2 motor.
Is this correct?
Or is it not a problem to just convert it to obd1?
No, the engine is fine. It depends upon the EMS used. Some are plug & play for the OBD2 harness, some are not. The systems that still utilize a factory ECU require you to simply use a conversion harness to work with the engine.
An adapter conversion harness allows an OBD2 engine harness (taking your OBD2A or OBD2B engine harness) to connect to an OBD1 ECU-based engine management system like Hondata, which is the only kind that can be modified to work on any OBD1 or OBD2 car regardless of engine.
Other systems like AEM, APEX'I POWER FC, etc. Can plug directly into an OBD2A or OBD2B engine harness without the need of the adapter conversion harness.
11-07-2016, 09:24 AM
USMC Honda Guy's - 88' CRX Si Turbocharger build progress
