I am currently looking at getting uberdata and I have been reading old post here and there for a couple of weeks now and I was reading a old post here when I seen that in order to tune the car you have to install it to the ECU run the car then go back to the computer and set everything and burn again then go back to the car and do it all over again until happy.

Now I thought that you get your basemap and install it and start the car drive around do some 3rd gear pulls and then stop and tune. "car off or on by the way???" then you would do it over again until happy with the tuning. Maybe I read this wrong but the main ? is if I burn the main chip like "stock LS" and then put it in the ECU I wouldn't have to burn again I just change the settings on the laptop while in the car?

Also I read that 1.7 has the cold start problem fixed is this true and is that what everyone is running now?

I know it should be in the Uberdat forums but I think it is a quick answer to someone that "IS" using it now. Plus I can't get feedback for a while on the site.

Don't flame the Newbie that wants the good self tuning **** instead of paying for "Hondata"

 

Burn chip, determine changes, make changes on laptop, reburn chip.

OR

Buy a romulator (ROM emulator) which allows realtime tuning, like you are asking. Hondata sells one.

Matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Johnyquest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Burn chip, determine changes, make changes on laptop, reburn chip.

OR

Buy a romulator (ROM emulator) which allows realtime tuning, like you are asking. Hondata sells one.

Matt</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think Kteller has one on his site too

 

What's the average cost on this ROMulator?


So pretty much after I make a run look at what the A/F, timing, Boost, etc. and then change everything I want and go back to the burner burn that chip with what I changed and install again.

Or are you saying make a run, the chip will record everything come back to the computer where the burner is located and adjust from there and then reburn the chip and install to the ECU. Do this till I'm happy with the results. And if I install the 1.6 or 1.66 whichever it will have everything loaded in that program that I need right. All the different settings and etc.

I downloaded the 1.6 and just looked at it to see what it looked like but inorder to get any info on it I have to install it to the ECU and make a run, it don't have settings already on theirbefore the run in the car.

Sorry again but these are the only ?'s I don't understand yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan_w_82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also I read that 1.7 has the cold start problem fixed is this true </TD></TR></TABLE>

can someone please fill me in on that specific question? what was this 'cold start problem'?

 

ROMulator I could live without.

EconoROM III is comparably priced, does not require homosexual cycling of the ignition switch in spastic fashion to bring ECU back online, like the ROMulator, and has been good to me.

Hold for a month or two (which is adviseable with how - sorry - clueless you are on tuning... keep reading up on it please) for support to bring about a tweak or two and you can buy a moates.net Ostrich and do true real time programming without having to reset the ECU. Same price as the craptastic ROMulator and EconoROM III, more features.

 

I was looking around maotes to find this ostrich thing. The info he has up there doesn't tell me much of anything. google was equally worthless in this case. Do you have any more info on this thing?

 

what do you need to know? uberdata supports it, if you need more info email craig moates. He is a good guy.

 

yeah I'm still trying to learn the tuning thing. I won't be installing anything for a month or two so until then everyday I'm learning more.

Do I need a special program to open up .bin files? I downloaded a couple files off the uberdata site to get a idea of it but it won't open with anything.

 

Ok iguess I can explain a little. I've done tuning in 1.66, 1.666666, 1.7, 1.70, and 1.8 My favorite being the stable 1.66. the only downside is no datalogging, but I really don't use that when i tune anyway because I stare at the wideband A/F meter I have. ireally don't understand why everyone is crazy about "getting" a basemap from someone when what you really should od is make one yourself. All you need to do is add 125% fuel in the boost section and, depending on how much boost you run take away X amount of timing per PSI. To stay really safe do .8-.9 degree per PSI if you are under 10 PSI. Turn the car on and on the first run in 3rd gear go about 60% throttle. Watch the A/F's and if you see anything higher then 12.5 release the gas and richen up the entire boost column...lets say...5% and try again.

You will probably need a laptop so you can burn chips in your car. Since the only thing that you can tune is A/F's you just do a run, and then adjust the fuel where needed. Save the new fuel map. Turn the car off. Take the chip out and burn it again with the new .bin. Start your car. And do another easy 3rd gear pull. Take away or add fuel as needed again and just keep going until you get your desired A/F's. With conservative timing and A/F's under 12.0-1 your car should be fine for a long time. dyno tunning will go quicker now because all that is left is ignition which should be done by a pro that knows what needs to be done just by looking at the graph. GL if you got questions you can ask me I'm pretty good with trouble shooting Uberdata

 

You know, all this **** really *is* covered on the UD Forum.

 

maybe so and I prob read it but just didn't understand it. I understand what adseguy just said and thanks for the info.

And ADSEGUY you have a IM. thanks

 

The only way to really understand is to do it.

 

yeah I know that. I can't do **** unless I do it myself and to learn that way it's hard to just read and learn but it gives me a idea.