Evilparadize

Is a Garrett T3/T04B Stage 3 Wheel Turbine A/R .63 & H-3 Trim Compressor A/R .70 too big for a stock b16 bottom end as daily driver?
The entire kit is as follows:

1) Garrett T3/T04B Stage 3 Wheel Turbine A/R .63 & H-3 Trim Compressor A/R .70
2) Bar & Plate 600CFM Intercooler 28”X8”X3.5” Inlet/Outlet 2.5”
3) Custom 2.5” Mandrel Bent Intercooler Piping from Turbo to Intake Manifold
4) Meutek B-Series Turbo Manifold w/ Wastegate Bung between #2 & #3 ports
5) Authentic Tial Sport 38MM Wastegate w/ .5Bar Spring (7.2 PSI)
6) Authentic Greddy BOV Type-RS
7) 2.5” Mandrel Bent Down Pipe w/ Flex Section & 02 Sensor Bung
8) Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump.
9) RC 550cc Injectors

Wondering if this turbo will create too much lag? WHP goal is 300+ on 91 pump gas with Hondata s300. Any opinions or suggestions on this turbo mated to a daily driven b16 on a 00 Civic Si would highly be appreciated.

Schister66

Actually your whole setup seems pretty reasonable and well put together

you are going to need a boost controller though

Evilparadize

A boost controller will definitely be in the works once I boost over the limits of the wastegate spring but below the reliability of the stock internals. A turbo timer will also come into play without procrastinating. Suggestions on brands for either of these or on the entire set-up specially the turbo size will seriously be considered, thanks again!

gsr x civic

for the boost controller, stick with manual. electronic ones are too ******* complicated and aren't worth the money. any hallman boost controller will be more than enough. i'm running a turboxs boost controller, but i don't think that matters get a hallman pro boost controller..

turbo timers aren't really necessary. if you're going to get one, just get the apexi pen type turbo timer. i bought it with a harness and install and mounting took like 25 minutes, and 10 of those minutes i was smoking hookah. LOL. they're easy as expletive to install, but just be sure to get the harness with it, which is like an extra 45 dollars.

for the downpipe, i'd go with a 3 inch, just so you're freeing up as much air as possible. 2.5 will still suffice, but with your post, it doesn't seem like you want to take shortcuts.

how are you going to go about the dump tube, out of curiosity? are you just going to vent it or recirc going into the exhaust?

i think your goal is easily obtainable as long as everything goes well. you made the right choice in going with an externally gated setup.

Evilparadize

Manual over electronic huh? Do they perform better and are more reliable or is it that electronic ones are just more complicated to install and operate? I actually considered a 3” down pipe but opted for a 2.5” because I wanted to retain A/C and power steering. Maybe after my appetite turns into hunger for more HP, I’ll upgrade to a 3”. For the dump tube, I was planning on venting it out as I’ve heard there is really no great benefit in routing it back to the exhaust. What do you think about the turbo size on this particular set-up? Thanks again for all the great input and suggestions. Schister66, I wanted to applaud you because I’ve seen many of your posts with nothing but great advise and opinions.

gsr x civic

actually, the a/r @ .63 is perfect for this application. the turbo should start to spool as early as 2.7k . too high of an a/r (i think one of the garretts had a .82 or something stupid) causes power to come in later, resulting in more lag.

manual over electric:
the only pro about electric is the in-car adjustment, which is really pointless imo, for the extra ~180 dollars. both serve the same purpose, and the manual works as great as the electric, so why not just get the manual? god forbid you have to pop the hood and turn the ****, as opposed to just press the button. really, it's all personal preference, but anyone with a manual boost controller can tell you their performance is exquisite.

if you know you're going to want a 3in later, why not upgrade now? you'll save yourself money because selling the used 2.5in won't sell for as much as you bought it. if you know you're going to want it later, get it now and save yourself the headache.

come back with more questions

Evilparadize

Will the H-3 Trim A/R .70 Compressor side have an affect on how fast the turbo will spool-up, or it won’t make much difference whether it’s smaller or bigger? The concept of forced induction is much simpler than the efficiency output by size in conjunction to an application of a turbo, my apologies. I also see your point for a manual boost controller vs. an electronic, if it’s purpose defeats cost over function, then manual is the way to go for budget. The ladies can’t live without A/C, and a 3” downpipe will eradicate a more pleasant daily driver. Any more suggestions will be appreciated, thanks again!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It could affect it, depending upon the volute of the turbo.

Electronic Boost controllers are fine, and even have additional benefits from the electronic solenoid to help with response of the turbo. If you don't take the time to learn how they work, you can easily get frustrated. Have to admit, there's nothing like turning a dial and making adjustements without getting out of the car each and every time. But if you do get a manual boost controller, Hallman is definately the way to go.

TTT

DO NOT GET AN H3 COMPRESSOR WHEEL!!!

The H3 comrpessor wheel is a 500hp turbo, but if you are not making 500hp it gets REALLY Pissed off. They do not work good on small displacment motors. IT will SURGE BAD!! The H3 works good on 500hp V8s at lower boost. That is about the only place it works good.

I would have to take a look at the GT3255 for your application.

Evilparadize

Anyone else agree with this?

TTT

Well here is the compressor map for the H3. After looking at it again, it may work in a lower boost small displacement application. When I have tried to use the H3 before it was being ran at 15-20 psi. Which you can see at that pressure ratio the surge line heads north really quick. What was happening was the turbo was coming into boost too quick and the motor would not be able to ingest the air and it would surge.

In a 10-12psi range this turbo might work just fine. So if you are going to only run the 10-12 psi range I would say give it a try.

Evilparadize

Thanks a lot for the great input. All of you have certainly given me inspiration and hope that this build will work just fine. This will be my first FI Turbo build and I’m looking forward to the vast experience in building one. Props to all.

Civic89stdB16

hate to jack ur trend but will this same turbo be good for 15 psi with a piston/rod combo in a b16 with gsr cams. Lookin for 375-425whp for strip purpose only. Thanks

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civic89stdB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hate to jack ur trend but will this same turbo be good for 15 psi with a piston/rod combo in a b16 with gsr cams. Lookin for 375-425whp for strip purpose only. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. I'd use a silver surfer instead. Replacement parts for H-3s are not the easiest to come by, nor would it be the best for a track use.