Well....finally after one year my turbo teg project was finaly done. b18b, golden eagle sleeves, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, seimen deka 740s, ported head, t3/t04e.....I got the car towed up to Dynotec Motorsports because I couldn't find out why my motor wasn't starting and why the aem ems wasn't coming online. So I get there and the aem ems comes online in no time, i'm like SWEET. So after loading the basemap and checking connections we go to start the car...nothing. We have no spark! I pull off my crane cams ignition and install stock **** and then remove turbo timer wires thinking I wired something incorrectly. Still no spark! We checked all fuses and pretty much every ****** wire on the car, still nothing! My tuner says, "Alright take the aem ems out and put the stock ecu back in, then pull two injector clips off." So I did and the ****** started running(on 2 cylinders)!!!! I'm like WTF! It turns out after all that my ****** $1000 ems is fucked up. He told me it was because the aem ems wasn't sending a signal to the coil to fire???

The next day I tow the car home, install stock fuel rail, injectors, remove resistor box, put stock map sensor back in, and go to start the car the very first time. What do ya know, fires right up. But I have a problem. The car wouldn't idle under 1k and anytime I took it higher the rpm's slammed down and it keeps throwing check engine lights, then immediately going away??? Today I start the car after gettting the coolant filled up and wiring the mr. gasket fan in and start the car, running better. So me and my buddy head over to his house and on the way there it starts ****** up WORSE than before. Rpm's slamming down, car jerking, and check engine lights?? I checked over all connections and injector wires for continuity(spelled wrong) and everything checks out OK???? So tonight the guy across the street came over(big chevy fanatic) and the first thing he says is "Pull the plugs." My plugs are fouled out big time and there's tons of **** on top my brand new pistons? He told me that when I was cranking the car over with the resistor box wired in wrong and I dumping tons of fuel in the motor and probably ruined my 02 sensors, therefore, the ecu is running the car VERY rich for some reason?? I know this the wrong but I had to tell the whole story, PLEASE HELP ME!

 

How was the resistor box wired wrong? Are you sure the injectors are wired right, like + to -, because I wired my old injectors backwards and it kept popping the fuse on the ECU. .Just Something to think about.

 

The resistor box was wired wrong because I didn't use a multimeter to check for continuity(it was VERY wrong). It was sending the wrong voltage and dumping fuel in. Three of my injectors were beeping(continuity) on the yellow/black wire side of the injector clip and one wasn't, but I fixed that tonight.

 

Damn, I hope you didn't wash out your rings. Good luck on getting it running though.

 

dont' worry about the EMS, AEM is very good about their products and will fix it for free usually.

and your problem sounds like an electrical problem. even though it does, i would first check compression and other mechanical items first just to be on the safe side. you never said anything about smoke of any sort so i think you're safe. just check all your wirings...anything with a positive touching the chassis can cause this to happen.

 

opinions wanted please

 

Would the something positive touching the chassis make the check engine light come on? Because I have a battery relocation kit from Summit racing. The battery is located behind the passenger seat and the power wire runs from the engine bay under the crossmember, threw the frame rail, and then threw a 1/2" hole to the battery. As far as I know no copper wire is touching the chassis, just the insulated part?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shermanyang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...anything with a positive touching the chassis can cause this to happen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my battery is in the trunk, and some wire melted though in the engine bay. every time the pos. would hit...the whole car would die! sometimes it would buck cause the wire kept tapping the frame.

 

damn I gotta check that entire wire more closely, thanks for the input.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teglove2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would the something positive touching the chassis make the check engine light come on? Because I have a battery relocation kit from Summit racing. The battery is located behind the passenger seat and the power wire runs from the engine bay under the crossmember, threw the frame rail, and then threw a 1/2" hole to the battery. As far as I know no copper wire is touching the chassis, just the insulated part?</TD></TR></TABLE>


you've spent a year building the motor, without a multimeter to test the resister pack, and you put the battery behind the seat?!?!?

 

Ok, today I got the car back together and checked every inch of the positive wire and none of it is exposed/touching the frame. I tried cranking it over and it's pouring fuel in. So I turned fuel pressure down in small incriments and it still floods???? Brand new plugs covered in gas? I think either the injector clips are wired wrong(cuz I've had to rewire them like 4 times), or one of the injectors are fried, if so, how do I check? Please help.

 

I switched the wires on the injectors clips and still flooding. Everything in/on the motor is stock for now except for turbo, do you guys think the walbro255 could be responsible for flooding?

 

The base map is going to flood your enigne because your using injectors way bigger than any of the base maps use. Your tuner needs to rescale the fuel map for use with bigger injectors - this is not done by simply selecting your injector with the battery offset wizard.

Its either that your your injectors/resistor box is wired up wrong so that the injectors are open all the time which is why your engine is being flooded.

Also, the AEM EMS does not send Check Engine Lights when something goes wrong. There are no trouble codes unless you set it up to light the CEL for say a shift light. The only reason I can think of why its going on and immediently back off is because your car is momentarily stalling for that period. I bet all your gauge clutser lights come on during this period too.

I would def NOT drive that car anywhere in its current condition. It would seem to me a good AEM tuner should be able to troubleshoot this for you.

 

Muckman... This is on his stock stuff. He switched it all back over to trouble shoot.

I'm thinking you need to get someone that knows what they are doing over to see what kind of a mess you have there.

 

sorry i skimmed through the thread quickly. if its on the stock injectors and it still sucks then you have some major issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The base map is going to flood your enigne because your using injectors way bigger than any of the base maps use. Your tuner needs to rescale the fuel map for use with bigger injectors - this is not done by simply selecting your injector with the battery offset wizard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I loaded my map on his car and rescaled the fuel map from my 550's to his 740's. So that wouldn't be the problem.

 

EVERYTHING on the car is stock now and still flooding. I sent the aem ems back today to get repaired. Could a bad 02 sensor be causing the flooding. I checked and re-checked the injector wiring and it seems to be good?

 

No. it doesnt have that amount of freedom to just add or subtract endless amounts of fuel to the system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry i skimmed through the thread quickly. if its on the stock injectors and it still sucks then you have some major issues. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hahhaha muckman, always there to provide helpful confidence. sorry, that just made me laugh.