Turbo setup
Hey guys I'm looking to turbo my d16y7 I found this can you guys tell me what you think, iv heard precisions is not bad but how about the rest of the kit, could you guys explain what a oil catcher is and as for the fuel regulator what's it for and what kinda fuel injectors would you guy suggest. An please let me know what else I need. I know I need to convert to obd1 an will need a fuel pump. Anything else I'm missing?
This setup is really going in for temporary fun and experience as I'm saving up for an f20c converssion but that's gonna coast me lots and I need some power for now so I won't be building the engine enternals I'll only b pushing 6-8 psi
This setup is really going in for temporary fun and experience as I'm saving up for an f20c converssion but that's gonna coast me lots and I need some power for now so I won't be building the engine enternals I'll only b pushing 6-8 psi
Found what? Sounds like a bunch of nonsense if you ask me. You don't even have the BASICS of turbocharging down.
This is going to become my official cut-n-paste for all you turbocharger noobs and dreamers.
This is going to become my official cut-n-paste for all you turbocharger noobs and dreamers.
In super oversimplified terms, there are three parts to a turbo kit. The Air side, which is all bolt on and what the shops (and Ebay) sell you, the Fuel side, where the tune can make or break your build, and then there's the Engine side and how much power it can handle and whether it need to be rebuilt to handle the power you want to make. All you noobs think about is just the air side of the build and trying to go fast,make X power, and impress your friends and neglect the fuel side as if it were an afterthought. This is why you cannot be spoonfed this information like some people are trying to do for you. Because when they do, you learn NOTHING.
So FIRST thing you need to ask yourself is;
What power do I want to make and WHY?
Don't pull a random number out of your *** or think because that Rustang makes 400hp you have to make 450 to beat him. It don't work that way.
Second question;
What's your budget?
Is it realistic? Noobs seems to think that they can make that 400hp on a measly budget of $1,500. That seems to be your magic number. Sorry to tell you, some turbos cost nearly that. Don't forget to budget in all kind of miscellaneous stuff you didn't think of, like a new clutch to hold all the brand new torque you're going to make. Gauges to monitor what you're build is doing. Etc.
Third question;
Am I building up the engine?
If the answer is No then you're limited by the strength of the internals as to what power you can make. If you don't even know THAT power limit then go to jail, do not pass go, do not collect $200.
Fourth question;
How do I get to my goal?
Read and research. Look at similar builds. Don't try and reinvent the wheel. Know what parts work, and how they work with each other.
Fifth question;
Who's tuning it?
A basemap is not a tune. Get a real EMS and get a real tune. That is, if you want to do it right. Most people half-*** it at this point and run their Ebay chip and wonder why it runs like crap.
I'm sure there are many many more points you can touch on but those are what I think are most important. Anyone, and I mean anyone that tries to "help" you when you are unable to answer those questions, isn't helping you.
So FIRST thing you need to ask yourself is;
What power do I want to make and WHY?
Don't pull a random number out of your *** or think because that Rustang makes 400hp you have to make 450 to beat him. It don't work that way.
Second question;
What's your budget?
Is it realistic? Noobs seems to think that they can make that 400hp on a measly budget of $1,500. That seems to be your magic number. Sorry to tell you, some turbos cost nearly that. Don't forget to budget in all kind of miscellaneous stuff you didn't think of, like a new clutch to hold all the brand new torque you're going to make. Gauges to monitor what you're build is doing. Etc.
Third question;
Am I building up the engine?
If the answer is No then you're limited by the strength of the internals as to what power you can make. If you don't even know THAT power limit then go to jail, do not pass go, do not collect $200.
Fourth question;
How do I get to my goal?
Read and research. Look at similar builds. Don't try and reinvent the wheel. Know what parts work, and how they work with each other.
Fifth question;
Who's tuning it?
A basemap is not a tune. Get a real EMS and get a real tune. That is, if you want to do it right. Most people half-*** it at this point and run their Ebay chip and wonder why it runs like crap.
I'm sure there are many many more points you can touch on but those are what I think are most important. Anyone, and I mean anyone that tries to "help" you when you are unable to answer those questions, isn't helping you.
Or if you just don't care about reliability whatsoever you can do a janky turbo build like this guy.
Mind you, you're gonna have to do some wheeling and dealing to get "deals" like this guy did. Start in the junkyards.
FMIC - $60 (came with a gsr P72 that I sold on ebay for $200.)
FMIC Piping, boost gauge, proform shift light - $80
Neptune RTP - $300 (I added my virgin P28)
T25 Turbo w/ hf manifold, adapter plate, o2 housing - $90
1G BOV already welded to the charge piping - $0
T-Clamps and couplers - Left over
So yeah really all that is missing is downpipe, fuel, oil lines and tune. So I have ~$530 so far and I'm sure I'm missing a couple of other things. I've put together 3-4 turbo kits like this for cheap as hell. Even if I didn't go Neptune, I traded a spare BOV I had for a socketed P28 straight up so chrome would have been free/extremely cheap but I wanted tuning software actually worth a damn.
Even if you bought all brand new...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140530563896?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1423.l2649#ht_8029wt_1163
$600 for a decent kit, factor in your fuel, tuning software, tune and a couple other things, you're right around $1-1500. Hell you can even get something smaller for cheaper as well. Wlabro 255 is only $90 and if you go DSM 450s that is what, 50 bucks if that? Even if you went NIB RCs, that'd only be ~$200. Wire in a resistor box from the junkyard, 3-5 bucks at most. So there you go, junkyard and BRAND NEW builds for under $1500...
FMIC Piping, boost gauge, proform shift light - $80
Neptune RTP - $300 (I added my virgin P28)
T25 Turbo w/ hf manifold, adapter plate, o2 housing - $90
1G BOV already welded to the charge piping - $0
T-Clamps and couplers - Left over
So yeah really all that is missing is downpipe, fuel, oil lines and tune. So I have ~$530 so far and I'm sure I'm missing a couple of other things. I've put together 3-4 turbo kits like this for cheap as hell. Even if I didn't go Neptune, I traded a spare BOV I had for a socketed P28 straight up so chrome would have been free/extremely cheap but I wanted tuning software actually worth a damn.
Even if you bought all brand new...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140530563896?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1423.l2649#ht_8029wt_1163
$600 for a decent kit, factor in your fuel, tuning software, tune and a couple other things, you're right around $1-1500. Hell you can even get something smaller for cheaper as well. Wlabro 255 is only $90 and if you go DSM 450s that is what, 50 bucks if that? Even if you went NIB RCs, that'd only be ~$200. Wire in a resistor box from the junkyard, 3-5 bucks at most. So there you go, junkyard and BRAND NEW builds for under $1500...
Ahh for got to post the link. Here it is.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-00-Honda-...39315f&vxp=mtr
And for the n
http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-00-Honda-...39315f&vxp=mtr
And for the n
Good luck with that. I'm sure there will be a few people that will tell you that they have had great success with those but I'm not a gambler that way. It seems you don't really care so go for it.
Right. I'm turbo'd and you're not. If you want to take offense to a term and not heed the advice then that's your choice. If all you saw was the word noob then you might as well just save up for your swap and skip boost altogether.
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As for how much power max I run is 200 or else I'll have to rebuild enternals as for budget is that kit is any good ill have to spend another 650 on tuning and wiring harness and ecu injectors so I'm looking at around 2500
Ok well as for the kit I posted what do u think of the turbo it self I know the eBay intercooler is decent it comes with a cast iron manifold not a stainless steel witch I thought was good but I wasn't sure about the rest the bov and the oil kits and so on?
I got a PM about my turbo setup, but my response fits this thread well.
No bottom end work, no head work needed. Stock clutch only lasted about 3 months before I replaced it with a Comp Clutch 6 puck hub sprung. Rebuilt the transmission myself at the same time, because the ISB was shattered.
I'm using a second-hand Greddy manifold/turbo/downpipe that I got for a steal - $500 for it, including oil lines and a socketted P28. The turbo it a TD94H-19T, and the flowchart for the 19T is damn near perfect for the D16. LS1 wideband and boost gauge from Glowshift, cheap generic eBay exhaust piping with a Thrush Turbo muffler from Autozone, full 2.75" system. Brought my oil pan to a local truck/diesel shop to have them weld in a fitting for the oil return line. Mishimoto Z-line intercooler, eBay piping. I went through Xenocron for a basemap tune, then had Matt Schue do the final tune for me. The guy is a master if you're in/near VA. I had also already swapped to a Y8-style intake manifold well before the turbo went in.
Turbo/dp/mani/ECU - $500
Gauges - $200
Exhaust - $150
FMIC - $200
Piping - $50
Misc labor - $50
Pizza and beer for friends - $50
$1200 for parts and labor, total. The Xenocron basemap costs something like $10, and the proper tune cost me $500, and I've been safely and reliably getting 200 for something like 2 years now. You'll also want to upgrade your clutch SOON after the install, and I highly recommend the Comp Clutch 6 puck hub sprung. I love the way it feels for DD and track use.
As for how well the car pulls, I'm faster than any factory car around this town, and there are a LOT of Porsches, STIs, and EVOs. I can also pull on my friend's Police Interceptor Crown Vic. Torque steer is a royal bitch, but an LSD will fix that in the future.
If you're smart, take your time, and shop around, you can have a full turbo build including clutch, tires, and a tune for $2000.
Originally Posted by jbpnoman
Originally Posted by Civic Racer X 7
how does that thing pull with right at 200 whp
what all did you do to your engine and what is yous setup
what all did you do to your engine and what is yous setup
I'm using a second-hand Greddy manifold/turbo/downpipe that I got for a steal - $500 for it, including oil lines and a socketted P28. The turbo it a TD94H-19T, and the flowchart for the 19T is damn near perfect for the D16. LS1 wideband and boost gauge from Glowshift, cheap generic eBay exhaust piping with a Thrush Turbo muffler from Autozone, full 2.75" system. Brought my oil pan to a local truck/diesel shop to have them weld in a fitting for the oil return line. Mishimoto Z-line intercooler, eBay piping. I went through Xenocron for a basemap tune, then had Matt Schue do the final tune for me. The guy is a master if you're in/near VA. I had also already swapped to a Y8-style intake manifold well before the turbo went in.
Turbo/dp/mani/ECU - $500
Gauges - $200
Exhaust - $150
FMIC - $200
Piping - $50
Misc labor - $50
Pizza and beer for friends - $50
$1200 for parts and labor, total. The Xenocron basemap costs something like $10, and the proper tune cost me $500, and I've been safely and reliably getting 200 for something like 2 years now. You'll also want to upgrade your clutch SOON after the install, and I highly recommend the Comp Clutch 6 puck hub sprung. I love the way it feels for DD and track use.
As for how well the car pulls, I'm faster than any factory car around this town, and there are a LOT of Porsches, STIs, and EVOs. I can also pull on my friend's Police Interceptor Crown Vic. Torque steer is a royal bitch, but an LSD will fix that in the future.
If you're smart, take your time, and shop around, you can have a full turbo build including clutch, tires, and a tune for $2000.
Cool story.
Read this
http://hondaswap.com/turbo-informati...rbo-kit-81384/
https://www.google.com/search?q=part...ient=firefox-a
then come back with questions.
Read this
http://hondaswap.com/turbo-informati...rbo-kit-81384/
https://www.google.com/search?q=part...ient=firefox-a
then come back with questions.
He's not running one. That should speak volumes.
You may be interested in this link about Ebay turbo kits.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ight=Ebay+kits
You may be interested in this link about Ebay turbo kits.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ight=Ebay+kits
The turbo it a TD94H-19T, and the flowchart for the 19T is damn near perfect for the D16
Remember though, none of what I put together is a kit. There is absolutely nothing "kit" about my turbo setup. Almost every part came from a different seller, but I did pay retail price on everything except the turbo/mani/downpipe. The only part that I would say I really splurged on was the Mishimoto Z-line intercooler. Why? Because I was already under budget, and I wanted it. You can easily cut $100 out of the price by getting a cheap eBay intercooler.
When it comes time for me to do the swap I'm piecing together right now, I'll be able to sell my full setup for ~$2500. I've already had offers for it. I'd call that a win any day of the week.
Loool I have many friends that would help I'm not the best at the michanics but Ido welding by trade and concidering how much fabrication a rwd conv needs I am capable of doing all the fab work... Please don't under astimate anyone the f20c is a huge project and I won't be doing it alone lol. It's actually funny how some you guy have nothin good to say but yet ur more then willin to try and bash someone that you know nothing about Lool!
Relax... slow down, read, research, and step your game up..
Such sensitivity these days... I think I may have to send some of these people my wife's psychotherapy schedule that she leads in the medical center for helping males in how to address their sensitive side.
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