cost of FI
so I've been looking into going turbo for awhile now for my 00' integra, I was wondering how much you guys with built motors and big turbos are spending because from what i've calculated out of my build it's looking at a good 13-15k, I want to have a fully built bottom end and heads and run a 3076r basically, I know it's kind of a vague question without knowing what parts i need but i'm aiming for a 450 whp build. i got about 8.5 grand to spend now so i wanna get this build started!
Let me know if any of these parts look ridiculous! I've kinda just built this parts list by lurking the forums lol.
Power goals: 425 whp on pump 91 gas.
Motor:
B18C1
Bored 84 mm block
Benson Sleeves
9:1 CP Pistons
ACL Bearings
ARP Head studs
Pauter or Manley connecting rods
Garrett GT3076R .82 A/R (this is all part of the synapse turbo kit)
Garrett Core Intercooler
Tial 44 mm wastegate
Tial 50 mm blow off valve
Edelbrock Victor X Manifold
Apexi WS2 80mm Universal Muffler
Warlboro 255 Fuel pump
Moroso Oil Pan
Hasport Motor Mounts
ID1000 Injectors
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
Walboro 255 LPH fuel pump
Heads:
Skunk2 Tuner 1 Cams or ITR cams
Supertech SS nitride coated valves
Supertech Dual Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
3 Angle valve job
Drivetrain:
ITR LSD
GSR Tranny
For ECU I was gonna go with Hondata S300...not sure if that's really necessary lol, and keep in mind my car is a LS and the reason that I'm going with a B18C is cause I need to keep my car running for transportation for most of the time so I'm going to have a buy a new block anyways...I was looking into buying a bare b18c block and building it from there
Power goals: 425 whp on pump 91 gas.
Motor:
B18C1
Bored 84 mm block
Benson Sleeves
9:1 CP Pistons
ACL Bearings
ARP Head studs
Pauter or Manley connecting rods
Garrett GT3076R .82 A/R (this is all part of the synapse turbo kit)
Garrett Core Intercooler
Tial 44 mm wastegate
Tial 50 mm blow off valve
Edelbrock Victor X Manifold
Apexi WS2 80mm Universal Muffler
Warlboro 255 Fuel pump
Moroso Oil Pan
Hasport Motor Mounts
ID1000 Injectors
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
Walboro 255 LPH fuel pump
Heads:
Skunk2 Tuner 1 Cams or ITR cams
Supertech SS nitride coated valves
Supertech Dual Valve Springs
Supertech Titanium Retainers
3 Angle valve job
Drivetrain:
ITR LSD
GSR Tranny
For ECU I was gonna go with Hondata S300...not sure if that's really necessary lol, and keep in mind my car is a LS and the reason that I'm going with a B18C is cause I need to keep my car running for transportation for most of the time so I'm going to have a buy a new block anyways...I was looking into buying a bare b18c block and building it from there
Hm the reason that I chose a large bore was cause I wanted to maximize how much power I can pull out of 91 pump gas, I figure larger bore will help with that but correct me if i'm wrong lol
Everything looks fantastic except for the Victor X manifold. Tuner 1 cams are nice too, though the ITRs are fine if you have them. If you don't have the ITRs, don't bother, as a lot of fakes are out there. Easier to get some Tuner 1s
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Don't try to maximize 91 octane.. you know its water, the states of CA and AZ know its nothing but watered down fuel, so don't try and do that. get what you can out of the fuel on a lower boost pressure setup, then be prepared to use better fuel or some other way to resist knock an increase boost pressure.
Haha aight cool, I got a couple of questions maybe you guys could help me out with, in terms of swapping it out to a B18C would it be more worth it to just go with a B18B? I don't really know prices but I'm guessing B18C is more expensive and if I'm going with this build it's just gonna be a turbo engine anyways lol
2. and also will I need beefier axles??
3. since I'm going from a B18B to a B18C could I use the same engine wiring harness and same ECU?
4. just read ur response shodan, i was gonna just use the stock gsr crank and keep the same stroke...is that a bad idea? if it is then in that case maybe I should just keep my stock sleeves as they are and just have the rest of the bottom end built (like bearings,pistons,connecting rods)?
and am I missing anything obvious here...like ignition system and stuff or is everything on my list necessary for my build? I'm on a slight budget so I mostly just want to get the things that I need to run a proper build
2. and also will I need beefier axles??
3. since I'm going from a B18B to a B18C could I use the same engine wiring harness and same ECU?
4. just read ur response shodan, i was gonna just use the stock gsr crank and keep the same stroke...is that a bad idea? if it is then in that case maybe I should just keep my stock sleeves as they are and just have the rest of the bottom end built (like bearings,pistons,connecting rods)?
and am I missing anything obvious here...like ignition system and stuff or is everything on my list necessary for my build? I'm on a slight budget so I mostly just want to get the things that I need to run a proper build
The 84 vs 81 bore hp difference will be minimal or at least not worth the extra $. Keep stock sleeves for anything up to 550whp or 650whp strip ( good tune ofcourse). In reality upgraded piston and rods on the bottom end and stock gsr cams w/ upgraded valve spring and retainers will do 500 easy on that turbo setup and last. 8.5 k should get you a full build plus tune. It really doesn't take much to make 400's. You can also save money by buying used parts. Things like used turbo manifold are good as new when it is made by a good fabricator.
cool...as for the valves themselves are they necessary or could I just use stock heads (like stock valves etc) with the tuner 1's?
See my responses in BOLD
Haha aight cool, I got a couple of questions maybe you guys could help me out with, in terms of swapping it out to a B18C would it be more worth it to just go with a B18B? I don't really know prices but I'm guessing B18C is more expensive and if I'm going with this build it's just gonna be a turbo engine anyways lol
Its more expensive because it is ready to bolt a VTEC head on. Yes, use your B18C1 block. If you want the additional bore to make any difference when you sleeve, use a B18B or B20 Crankshaft in your B18C1 and remove the oil squirters. I've done that before and now you have a great 2.0 Litre turbo without trying to do an LS/VTEC. It will also be easier to run any oil coolers or additional equipment later as opposed to LS/VTEC
2. and also will I need beefier axles??
Well, that depends upon what you're trying to do with the car. That's something you only need to change when you start performing a bit more in the type of driving you want. Not all forms of racing need axles, but its not a bad idea if using afterarket Limited Slip Differentials.
3. since I'm going from a B18B to a B18C could I use the same engine wiring harness and same ECU?
Depends upon what you have. A VTEC ECU (Or an ECU with VTEC engagement will still be needed regardless of which block you decide. As for the wiring harness, it all depends upon what year the chassis is (assuming its using the original harness), and your budget
4. just read ur response shodan, i was gonna just use the stock gsr crank and keep the same stroke...is that a bad idea? if it is then in that case maybe I should just keep my stock sleeves as they are and just have the rest of the bottom end built (like bearings,pistons,connecting rods)?
Again, that depends upon what you're trying to do.. see my comments about using the LS or B20 to match any 84mm stroke with your sleeves.
and am I missing anything obvious here...like ignition system and stuff or is everything on my list necessary for my build?
Depends upon the condition that the original ignition system is in when you get started. You may be better off to start off with what you have first then upgrade from that point.
I'm on a slight budget so I mostly just want to get the things that I need to run a proper build
You might as well stop now. NOTHING will keep you in your "cheaper budget" if you want this to work properly, which is dependent upon your ability or shop's ability to assemble and tune this project that you have...
Check out my build thread regarding using the B20 Crank in a GS-R B18C1 block
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/project-em1-shodan-goes-na-2458563/
Its more expensive because it is ready to bolt a VTEC head on. Yes, use your B18C1 block. If you want the additional bore to make any difference when you sleeve, use a B18B or B20 Crankshaft in your B18C1 and remove the oil squirters. I've done that before and now you have a great 2.0 Litre turbo without trying to do an LS/VTEC. It will also be easier to run any oil coolers or additional equipment later as opposed to LS/VTEC
2. and also will I need beefier axles??
Well, that depends upon what you're trying to do with the car. That's something you only need to change when you start performing a bit more in the type of driving you want. Not all forms of racing need axles, but its not a bad idea if using afterarket Limited Slip Differentials.
3. since I'm going from a B18B to a B18C could I use the same engine wiring harness and same ECU?
Depends upon what you have. A VTEC ECU (Or an ECU with VTEC engagement will still be needed regardless of which block you decide. As for the wiring harness, it all depends upon what year the chassis is (assuming its using the original harness), and your budget
4. just read ur response shodan, i was gonna just use the stock gsr crank and keep the same stroke...is that a bad idea? if it is then in that case maybe I should just keep my stock sleeves as they are and just have the rest of the bottom end built (like bearings,pistons,connecting rods)?
Again, that depends upon what you're trying to do.. see my comments about using the LS or B20 to match any 84mm stroke with your sleeves.
and am I missing anything obvious here...like ignition system and stuff or is everything on my list necessary for my build?
Depends upon the condition that the original ignition system is in when you get started. You may be better off to start off with what you have first then upgrade from that point.
I'm on a slight budget so I mostly just want to get the things that I need to run a proper build
You might as well stop now. NOTHING will keep you in your "cheaper budget" if you want this to work properly, which is dependent upon your ability or shop's ability to assemble and tune this project that you have...
Check out my build thread regarding using the B20 Crank in a GS-R B18C1 block
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/project-em1-shodan-goes-na-2458563/
I must admit, he didn't list full power goals, he's using a GT3076R, I suspect its under 525whp, and wanted plenty of midrange for his goal. This means that he wants a manifold that will maximize his use of the midrange portion of the powerband from 4000rpms-7000rpms. This means that the Skunk2 or Performer X (Edlebrock) would be more for his application than some Victor X manifold.
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