daboy155

Just wanted to start off by staying this is a great forum and thanks for all the advice I have recieved here. My engine is out and almost done with the rebuild, I decided on the GTX2867r turbo for my b18b motor.

My main question is the turbo housing, bolt pattern, and wastegate. I bought this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/111001104639?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&rmvSB=true
ONLY for the piping, manifold and intercooler basically since I know that will all fit. I'm gonna get good quality turbo, BoV and wastegate. So my question is, how can I know if my turbo will bolt on to the manifold or not? I know you can buy different bolt patterns on the housing I think?

Then my next question is: I got a manual 2 setting boost controller, from what i understand this hooks up to an external wastegate. So I would get a GTX2867r with no internal wastegate, and hook the wastegate up with the boost controller. How do I know which housing to pick out for my turbo?

Thanks!

Geis

Well uhhhh, first I can safely say it's probably better to just buy an intercooler kit or the piping and intercooler separate on ebay if you are going that right, should really look into at least a used quality intercooler for actually lowering the IATs more, this can affect power. Any ebay cast mani works well, I was thinking of trying a ramhorn but if you do make sure to actually hold the turbo up with something other than the manifold, the ebay ramhorns are known to crack under the weight of the turbo.

Other than this from the way I understood it you really just match the housing from the turbo your getting to the manifold an making sure the flange is correct (pretty sure this is all labeled) and you are good to go. May need additional input as I am on my first build myself so...

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Turbine flange type : T3 flange
Down pipe flange type: 5 bolt standard

There ya go, question answered. If you want to drop another turbo on there, it'll have to be a T3 flange, with a 5 bolt exhaust flange. The GTX2867R has a 5 bolt exhaust, but uses a T25 flange. You'll have to use an adapter, or a different manifold.

The WG is easy - it's probably a standard 38mm 2 bolt.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

actually, there are two types of 5 bolt turbine housings

The FORD style 5 bolt, and the GT. The GTX2867R, can come with that Ford style if requested by your dealer, which is in an external wastegate format.

Don't forget, for the GTX2876R, you'll still need the proper restrictor, water lines, return flange, etc. These CANNOT be from the same e-bay company you're getting the rest of this kit from. That is THE FASTEST way to kill the over $1400 turbocharger you're going to buy.

Bottom line: Get a "hot parts" kit from Spoolin' Performance or Go-Autoworks and get the GTX2867R separately. Stay away from this eBay nonsense as your first turbo build.

daboy155

Yeah I actually thought twice and cancelled the order, I'm going through go-autoworks and getting it piece by piece.
So far I have, FMIC kit, manifold, turbo, BOV, wastegate, boost controller, downpipe, what other mechanical things do I need( such as oil/water lines, etc?)

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Upgrade clutch, larger injectors (based upon power goals as long as you didn't mess up on turbo choice) , fuel pump, vacuum manifold, vacuum hoses, engine management, NGK 4554 plugs. Boost and oil pressure gauges, money for tuning, upgraded brake pads and good brake fluid..

You can't go fast if you can't ******' stop...

daboy155

heres what i have so far, shoulda posted this earlier, see anything i'm missing? (everything is already on the car minus the injectors map sensor boost gauge and BOV)

3bar map sensor
Eagle Rods,
Weisco Pistons 9.4:1
Exedy Stage 2 clutch
ACT lightweight flywheel
All new gaskets and hone(all new other parts such as pumps, belts, etc)
dual valve springs, and new valves (supertech)
750 RC injectors
hondata s300
walboro 255 pump
crower stage 2 turbo cams
electronic exhaust cutout(push a button and i am open right off the downpipe)
I've done all my maintenance, filters, distributor cap/rotor, etc
all new suspension and coilovers, everything is skunk2 or function7
16 enkei rims with re-11's all around
HKS ssqv BOV
AEM air fuel ratio gauge
boost gauge(cant remember brand)
all new rotors and pads all around

So my budget is around 3000 for all the turbo parts (i already budgeted 500 for a tune)
the GTX is gona run me 13-1500 or so, that leaves 1500 for the manifold, downpipe, FMIC, and wastegate.

my goal is as much as my clutch will handle, it's still a DD but I want to take it to the track occasionally. So I'm shooting for 300-350 for now with plans to go higher later

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

+1 to what Shodan said about brakes. You can get good Hawk pads (HP+ front, HPS rear is my style) and Brembo blanks for pretty cheap. Check the marketplace.

The 3 BAR map sensor is unnecessary unless you're going past 10 PSI. Even then, you should only get a sensor to match the boost you're aiming for - larger sensors have resolution problems with lower boost values. 10 PSI per BAR is a fairly safe estimate for upgrading a MAP sensor. If you aren't going past 10 PSI, stick to the stock sensor. If you are, see if you can either return the sensor for a properly sized one, or try to find someone to trade with you.

Same "try to return or trade" with the pistons. Go with higher CR. If you can't, it's not a big deal, but you'll get a better powerband out of 10:1 or 10.5:1, and can safely run them on 93.

The rest of is seems perfectly reasonable. $1500 is plenty of money to get a decent manifold, intercooler, and wastegate, and have a good exhaust shop fab up intercooler piping and a downpipe specific to your application.

m4xwellmurd3r

just to add in, go autoworks does have a kit with the gtx2867r, and if you don't like the cast manifold you can get the tuner kit with a tubular log with the gtx2867r if you request

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Get rid of the Brian Crower "turbo cams". Run a stock set of GS-R can shafts. Get a real clutch.. I'll recommend this one last time

daboy155

I decided to go with the cast v2 manifold, 5 bolt .63 on the turbo and it should match the mani no problems, the wastegate specs are 38mm for the manifold, so does this mean any 38mm wastegate will work, such as this?


Heres a pic of the mani:
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-7680467..._2267_17731991

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

you need to know the HP rating for your 5 bolt turbo you picked up, as there are a lot of choices. Those numbers mean NOTHING for what wheels are in them.

38mm can mean either a 2 bolt flange, or the 38mm MV-S which uses a v-band flange. The Turbosmart Comp 40 can also fit the TiAL 38mm v-band flange.

daboy155

I just realized I need a 2 bolt flange for sure, v band is not going to work without an adapter and thats more parts to worry about. The turbo is rated for 475HP max, it's a GTX2867R, I should just be able to get any quality wastegate (2 bolt flange and 38mm) and put a boost controller on right?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's 475 to the crank, not the wheels..

The only quality units in that configuration are TiAL, Turbonetics, and Turbosmart..

daboy155

Thanks for all the links!
Could I run a 1 bar wastegate (tial 38MM) or will this be too much, the pistons are only 9.4:1 CR its a gtx2867r

I'm not completely clear on how the manual boost controller works, Will the spring even matter if I have a manual boost controller on?
This is the boost controller I have

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The wastegate spring pressure is the lowest you can possibly go - a boost controller just lets you multiply that to get more boost before the WG opens. I don't think a 1 BAR spring will be too much, though.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

1BAR is just fine for a 38mm gate. That's peanuts.