westtexasco

Does anyone have a turboed b series or h series that's made it 50,000 miles without damaging something? Are thare truly reliable turbo builds?


ETA if you have a turbo car tgats lasted close to this long, please post.

Also, if you know of a good combo that will last a long time, 300hp or so, please post it. Trying to decide if to turbo or go NA.

I plan to go the whole 9, pistons and rods (only sleeving if I have to tho) with a fully built upper half. 3 to 350 tops and reliable.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Any build is only as reliable as the effort you put into it, and the money you invest in it. 50k miles is only like, 3 1/2 years on average. Plenty of properly assembled turbo cars do that every day.

westtexasco

Thanks. I realize that should be the case, bit I never see any engines on here with very high mileage....mostly blown up after awhile.

I was looking at a badass all motor build, but I think turbo will get me to my goals easier. Only problem is I never see anyone on here driving a turbo setup for a long time.

I would spend a lot to have a fully built, reliable turbo build, 350 max hp, if I knew it would last a long time (with regular maintenance and a good tuner)

westtexasco

I was also looking at 90s bmws, VWs, miatas, and some others but I want a low 12s daily driver without going the 5.7/4.6/5.0 builds.

I can spend as much as I need. It will be bought a couple pieces at a time, but I will spend as much as needed to get something long lasting.


Keep going back and forth between NA and FI for a 90s civic (or crx depending on the engine).

If I saw some high mileage turbo builds it would sure help.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

A forum (especially this one) generally won't be a good indicator of longevity. The people you see posting here are either pushing the envelope fairly hard, or are only coming here because something went wrong. Call them the vocal minority. Use good parts, get a good tune, and treat the car well, and it'll last a good, long time

westtexasco

Obviously turbo factory cars go hundreds of thousands of miles, but every time I see an aftermarket turbo car, it seems to either be low mileage or blow up before high mileage. And that's discouraging. I don't want a drag car, just a low 12s daily driver for fun.

westtexasco

Good point, maybe the people here just tend to push for more and blow stuff up.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You also have to remember that OEM turbocharged factory cars are made with utility in mind and not for the performance-oriented, (until the last few years).

You cannot compare what worked in the 1990s to today, as what you're attempting to perform is considered to be a "resto-mod" or restofication project; using 21st century technology in late 20th century chassis. It can be done very well and easily, but you have to understand as NotARacist stated, their purpose is different. Not to just drive every day in a turbocharged car capable of 11.99 seconds or less (though some claim to), but to make a more powerful subcompact that can compete with other vehicles in some sort of race format.

There are several that easily have over 70,000-100,000 miles on their retro-turbocharger creations, but they have had the car for YEARS, and have other cars to daily drive and work with.

Look at the purpose. It can be done, and actually, done relatively easily, if using the correct components, assembled properly, and tuned well. Its just the minority here. Don't be discouraged by others, and their behaviour; make yourself better and don't do what they did.. that's how you break the mold.

westtexasco

Thanks. Will rods n pistons on a mild boost help with longevity?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Depends on the current condition of the motor, the quality of the parts and labor put into reassembling it, and what kind of power levels you'd be targetting.

westtexasco

Looking at a low mileage gsr block. Eagle n wiseco inside. 550 injectors. 9:1 or so. Gsr head with a cam swap. Arp bolts. Cam gears. Cai, nicest headers and exhaust I can find. A few parts I'm thinking about so far.


I'm thinking most boost pretty high on stock, maybe if I just go to 350hp but have everything built (overkill), it will be super reliable

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to lower compression. Get that thought out of your head now, please. ARP head studs are always a good idea. Cam gears are unneccessary on stock/OEM cams. A CAI and header (just one - you only have one exhaust bank) are not turbo things - you're completely relocating where air gets "sucked in" with a turbo, so a shelf CAI wouldn't work, and the turbo/manifold/downpipe combination goes where a header would, so those are also unnecessary.

If you're looking at a supercharger, disregard what I just said about the CAI and header.

A stock block can handle 350 with a good tune fairly easily - you shouldn't need to put forged internals in it. If the motor is healthy, a mediocre assembly job can actually do more harm in the long run than boosting a stock block would, for those levels. I wouldn't even crack it open.

m4xwellmurd3r

the key to longevity is money. build a 350hp engine to handle 500hp+ and it'll last longer as long as the tune is solid. 350+stock block=short lived vs 350hp+CSS+forged bottom end.

also, maintenance is key. skimp out on oil changes and skimp out on basic maintenance and it won't last long. stock na engines can tolerate poor maintenance to a point, but performance engines can't for obvious reasons

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

350 on a stock block won't be short lived, if it's a healthy motor, and taken care of properly

supersilverdc2

Stock 300hp lsvtec here. lasted about 60K and I dont drive like a grandma but I also dont go ripping through gears all day. some street fun. I only got it tuned once and it was spot on after about 5 hours. rings failed in cyl 3 and 4. Car was still running but I started the rebuild anyways because I dont like driving broken sht. driven daily. I knew I should have had it checked out again at the tuner but I also know that boosting a stock block isnt the greatest idea.

westtexasco

Thanks guys.


The "build for 500 And it will last at 350" was my thinking.

Sounds like it's not needed, but I might do it anyways.

Are my choice in block and head going to work? Will I gain from nice cams or leaving factor gsr cams in it instead? I will spend the money on whatever needed to insure longevity and easier power. I was thinking if I did internals, I am closer to my goal so the turbo psi would be lower, and engine would last longer.


If a gsr block and head will work, that's great. I will buy the block on my next paycheck to get it started.

westtexasco

Y'all are great btw. The only car work I've done is fixing broken down work trucks constantly on the ranch the past few years. And basic maintenance, swapping bolt ons, etc. Luckily my good buddy runs the biggest shop in town and has been thru all the official schools on top of his shadetree mechanic childhood, so I have a good partner in the build. I'm slowly learning. Guns and hunting are my hobby and what I devote my online time to, but in switching gears now to this stuff.

westtexasco

Also, I thought I needed to lower the high compression of a gsr?

supersilverdc2

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/

there is a search button, and a god

westtexasco

Been reading there all day.

God or god?

westtexasco

Oh , and I'm looking at a bare gsr block to start.

supersilverdc2

if you want it to last. build it right. sleeved block, forged pistons and rods. if your goal is 500. It sounds like you dont have anything at the moment. so plan on a turbo, hondata s300, intercooler, piping , wastegate, exhaust, turbo manifold, valvetrain, fuel injectors and pump, upgraded clutch,what type of fuel, there are many other things to consider in reference to a 500hp goal

A bare gsr block is a great starting point in my opinion.

westtexasco

Thanks. My goal is 350 :-)

westtexasco

Will all this fit in a crx?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You don't need a sleeved block for 350whp, that's for sure, but supersilverdc2 is correct on the idea of building the block appropriately for your goal.

If you're starting off with a bare block, and crankshaft that's a great way to go. "Fitting" into a CRX is all on the type of "Hot parts" (Exhaust manifold, downpipe, dumptube combination) and accessories that you pick out. All A/C components need to be removed, and a quality half-sized radiator is needed. You'll need to pick out components made for the EF/EH 88-91 class of chassis, as they are very different from the other models.

So, as a piggy-back to supersilverdc2's comments
forged pistons and rods.
(Quality) turbocharger,
hondata s300, AEM EMS, or other fuel management.
550hp intercooler, 2.5" intercooler piping
TiAL or TurboSmart 38 -40mm wastegate,
custom 3"exhaust system or thermal R&D Exhaust system that is pre-made
tubular steel exhaust turbo manifold (most versitile in tight spots),
upgraded fuel injectors (775cc +)
Fuel pump (Walboro 255 G342, Deutchwerks 300lph, etc)
upgraded clutch (Exedy 08950, or Clutchmasters FX300,
what type of fuel, (we're assuming 93 octane or some sort of additional knock resistant fuel)

Look to other CRX and EH chassis cars to see what their configurations are. This will not be a "bolt in " affair so get ready for it regardless..

This is a teaspoon of information to taste. After this, time to go out on your own and do some self-reconnaissance.

Good luck.