Egg-weezy

Who out there knows anything about an EGT gauge. What is the Exsaust temp suppose to be reading at? What's the safe zone? Where is it at when your ***** gonna melt? I got a reading of 850 degrees at normal driving. 600 degrees at idle. 950-1150 depending on how hard i beat it. I just want to know what to expect out of the readings and nobody that is into turbos seem to know. So I guess I need the hard core know it all turbo freek in order to get an answer to, what i thought, a simple question.

Egg-weezy

bump

VNTEC

Bump for a good question

platinum00

not a egt expert,

but those temps seem low. where is your gauge located.

stuff starts to melt at like ~1500 - 1600


platinum.

Egg-weezy

I have an autometer gauge and it only goes up to about 1600 degrees. the probe/sensor is located in the actual turbo manifold in tapped into the thrid runner.

Common this should be a pretty easy question for you turbo freaks. An EGT gauge is important to know when your car is ready to be beaten on and to see when you shouldn't push it anymore. it tells you rich/lean by temp. and its a tool use in finding out the right timing. Yet no one seems to know what temp everything should be reading at.

JZ 97 SS 1500

Your readings are fine for idle and running around. It looks though as your running a little on the rich side if your only reaching 950-1150 at WOT. I try to shoot for 1250-1350 F at WOT. Above that and your starting to run the car a little on the lean side. Above 1400-1450, your better hope your running good forged parts...hehe.

Jose

underpressure02

A simple search turns up this

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=248965

And this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=631961

And this

http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm

Mattngsx

HAHAHA, im glad to kinda see this thread...

I just wanna add my 2 cents

"The BEST way to tune an engine is on an engine dyno- PERIOD. What EGT is good for is a reference for where the engine made maximum torque at wide open throttle. Once removed from the dyno, a similar air/fuel ratio can be established at a later date by dialing in the mixture to achieve the target EGT"

This is true... Though It has to be noted there is a diffrence when they talk about a Air Fuel Ratio. This is proformed on a Wide band o2 reader, that gives actual o2 readings in voltage occurences! Not a led AFR ie autometer, those are about as worthless as well sh*t! Its like saying I have HIDS in my car when I have just have wanna be blue lights.

Also, A/F o2 reader is not always right either. Case in point. If you don't have a 02 sensor, Any type of A/F will not work. Though to achive not having a o2 sensor you would have to of course remove it, and have another form of tuning done to work with out it IE a hondata ECU programed to work with out it.

Another would be no catalatic converter, this would also give you faulty reading on a o2 reader.

So case in point the best way to tune your car if it is Turboed would be on a Dyno with a EGT, to get maxium power with out blowing your sh*t.

-Matt

btw I don't have an answer for exhaust temps on a B18's, I don't own a turboed honda but i do know alot about turbos though, especialy on the other end of the field with me DSM

Egg-weezy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A simple search turns up this

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=248965

And this
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=631961

And this

http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm

</TD></TR></TABLE>

with these threads i guess it gives me an idea of what you should be running at. But i guess it gets into alot of different variables depending on setup, engine, turbo, fueling, and ignition. That's alot of variables. However it does give me a range that's broad enough to know that i'm running with in the mediums of what i "should" be running at. Thanks for the help guys. If you have more info than post it so that future EGT questions can be answered thru archived questions. Although I tried to search for some answers and didn't find any of the threads you did.

X-Mazda 3 Racer

Also, just to add, EGT differ from fuel to fuel. Be sure to take that into consideration!

Egg-weezy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JZ 97 SS 1500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your readings are fine for idle and running around. It looks though as your running a little on the rich side if your only reaching 950-1150 at WOT. I try to shoot for 1250-1350 F at WOT. Above that and your starting to run the car a little on the lean side. Above 1400-1450, your better hope your running good forged parts...hehe.

Jose</TD></TR></TABLE>

1250-1350 is a lean temp reading, a correct reading, or a rich reading. If you run your car lean the temps are gonna be hotter and you'll feel more power. If you run your car rich than your running cooler but your engine is pretty much safe when it comes to blowing you ****, but less horsepower. Just curious to why you'd say 1250-1350 is something to shoot for??? ie Experience, Dynoed, or what?

JZ 97 SS 1500

Experience with many FI cars. Typically those temps are right in the 12.0 A/F range or close.

Jose

TABIAS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattngsx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another would be no catalatic converter, this would also give you faulty reading on a o2 reader.

So case in point the best way to tune your car if it is Turboed would be on a Dyno with a EGT, to get maxium power with out blowing your sh*t. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So if I have no cat will my egt read wrong? And where is a good place to put it in the exhaust, close to the turbo or after it?
thanks

redboost10

the best place that pretty much everyone has said and will agree on is putting it in number 3 runner on your manifold about 2" from the head flange.

IntegracinGSR

Why the number 3 runner?

roydogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegracinGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why the number 3 runner?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because the 3rd runner runs the hottest. My car has seen 1700*f on stock internals and is still runnin but that temp was due to timing being too advanced. I didn't know it was that high til I got my egt gauge installed about 2months later. Was wondering why I was getting smoke in the cabin from burning my dipstick at wot. but 1400-1500 is reasonable at wot

kpt4321

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattngsx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another would be no catalatic converter, this would also give you faulty reading on a o2 reader.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bull. Having no cat will probably make the A/F ratio reading more accurate.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So case in point the best way to tune your car if it is Turboed would be on a Dyno with a EGT, to get maxium power with out blowing your sh*t.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong. The best way to tune is with a wideband A/F ratio sensor, and some kind of knock detection. Once the car is tuned like that, you can safetly use an EGT gauge as a reference point.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw I don't have an answer for exhaust temps on a B18's, I don't own a turboed honda but i do know alot about turbos though, especialy on the other end of the field with me DSM </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope you know that on a DSM, an EGT gauge is a whole lot of useless.

Egg-weezy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kpt4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wrong. The best way to tune is with a wideband A/F ratio sensor, and some kind of knock detection. Once the car is tuned like that, you can safetly use an EGT gauge as a reference point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is some kind of knock detection gonna make a more accurate tunning. In the H22s they don't have knocks and you can tune those cars just fine with just a dyno.

kpt4321

If you don't have a knock detection system, how do you plan on tuning your car to the edge without knocking? You can't, you're just guessing.

You can use something like a J&S Safeguard, ora microphone bolted to the block. Whatever you use, you need to know if the motor is knocking if you want to extract the most power while still keeping the car safe.

Mattngsx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kpt4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wrong. The best way to tune is with a wideband A/F ratio sensor, and some kind of knock detection. Once the car is tuned like that, you can safetly use an EGT gauge as a reference point.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Without a cat, a stock ecu will just mess with your a/f ratio. Sorry thats what I ment by unaccutate readings from the 02.

Im not going to get into this one! I believe Dainteg, wanted to know if he was in a safezone for running his car. Though what he forgot to inculde was his setup, what he was running for boost, and what intenals he has. Which all play factor in his tunning.

The discusion on tunning can go around in circles here all day. There's diffrent types of 02 wide bands and a/f readers. An yes knowing Knock is one of the most important things on tunning a car, thanks for adding that kpt.

I use my EGT, for my safezone, and I have a knock box along with dmslink and palm monitering software.

KPT under your profile your hompage link says that you have a dsm? So Im not going to flame you for the EGT comment, but to say its useless well thats an understatement and once again an opinion. If you don't have an understanding of the workings of a Wideband, EGT, KNOCK and proper TIMMING. Then you shouldn't be tunning a car. Personaly I wouldn't want my car tunned without a EGT (on a turbo car)! Widebands arn't accurate all the time. And Knock is usaully picked up way before High Egt levels are even present. They all play a key rolls togather!

Like I said this can just go around in circles all day here, its like saying Your dad can beat up my dad, but my mom can already do that so whats the point.
Leave tunning to the profesionals, and lets stick with the subject.

-Matt

kpt4321

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mattngsx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you don't have an understanding of the workings of a Wideband, EGT, KNOCK and proper TIMMING. Then you shouldn't be tunning a car. Personaly I wouldn't want my car tunned without a EGT (on a turbo car)! Widebands arn't accurate all the time. And Knock is usaully picked up way before High Egt levels are even present. They all play a key rolls togather!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course knock will occur before EGT beings to rise. On a DSM, which is the kind of car you are familiar with, the EGT rises BECAUSE of the knock. The knock causes timing retard, which jacks the EGT way the crap up. In a system like this, the A/F ratio has a much smaller effect on the EGT than the timing advance and retard does.

Widebands are very accurate, almost all the time, if you have a good part. A wideband is 10 times a better tuning tool then an EGT gauge. An EGT tells you a temperature that is related to a whole slew of other factors; wideband tells you a direct value that you can use, one of the most import values for tuning.

Most real race cars are tuned without an EGT gauge.