trus01d1er

hey guys well ive just recently installed a turbo kit on my ls in an ek. well first it was breathing out white smoke when i push it. it run perfectly fine if i dont push it. well i thought it was the turbo so i got another turbo to see if the problem go away which it didnt. it has the same problem. i push it and white smoke come out. now all of this white smoke thing only happens when i push it past 6k rpm. i wouldnt see the smoke until i let off the accelerator and then thats when the white smoke comes out i have no clue why its doing that and yes i know that white smoke = to oil burning
if this occurs to anyone please help me out so i can push my car and not be imbrass when i fly by someone hehehhe jp
and i am sorry for all the grammar issue in this post. but all to aside all help are greatfully appreciated

adictionbass

blue smoke = oil burning

white smoke = coolant

black smoke= rich

do a compression and leakdown test; sounds like a headgasket issue.

trus01d1er

hey I know this is a newby question but how do I do a compression and leakdown test?

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blue smoke = oil burning

white smoke = coolant

black smoke= rich

do a compression and leakdown test; sounds like a headgasket issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

To the unexperienced eye, burning oil can look like white smoke. The last car I fixed had literal plumes of whiteish smoke coming out, but based on what the dirver told me, it had to be oil. Turns out the pistons #1 & 4 had such badly cracked ringlands, they fell out in my hands, allowing me to see through the piston from side to side. HG looked fine, but a little coolant goes a LONG way for making smoke.

My guess is that after 6k, the timing is starting to lift the head, and allowing coolant to get into the cylinders. Burning oil will make the cyl & spark plugs very dirty, while coolant will tend to steam-clean the inside & leave a white-ish residue. Check the plugs first. If you can't tell, try comp/leakdown tests. If compression/leakdown tests seem fine too, replace the HG and put ARP headstuds in there. But that will cause problems too if you don't torque them correctly, as well as retorque them after 200ish miles.

trus01d1er

as i stated above im new to this problem and never had a leakdown or compression test done
how do i do it and is it possible for me to do or do i have to take it somewhere to get it down thanks

vtec.dc2

you can do compression test yourself http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php
you probably need a compressor for leakdown tester so that would be more costly. but if you fail on compressoin test being even across all cylinders, then its enough to tell you have problems.

hows your ventilation setup?? how many vents do you have and where?

PrecisionH23a

Was the set-up tuned at all? Were you running any sort of fueling upgrades?

Also, how is your oil return line ran?

trus01d1er

hey well yes my setup is tuned
when you say ventilation what do you mean by that and I will be able to do the compression and leakdown test no problem bc I do have a compressor at my house
the fuel setup is 440 injectors and the oil line I ran from the turbo to the tapped oil pan

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trus01d1er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey well yes my setup is tuned
when you say ventilation what do you mean by that and I will be able to do the compression and leakdown test no problem bc I do have a compressor at my house
the fuel setup is 440 injectors and the oil line I ran from the turbo to the tapped oil pan</TD></TR></TABLE>

vents as in valve cover vents, vents from back of the block, pcv.. how do you have all of that connected??

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trus01d1er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the fuel setup is 440 injectors and the oil line I ran from the turbo to the tapped oil pan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea... but how is the line ran... meaning is it perfectly vertical and not going down then back up?

Boostfed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea... but how is the line ran... meaning is it perfectly vertical and not going down then back up?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Exactly, if your return line is not done right it will smoke and it is white at least my old Drag kit and return set up was like that. Another thing is also bad valve seals

trus01d1er

well in that case that might be a problem bc mine is not straight it has curves in it
if that case the problem how can i fix that is there a certain return line that have the actual length from the turbo to oil pan

GSE980

I know this is an old thread but I have a simliar problem except mine smokes upon start up but then quits smoking white... My return line is not straight...I have never heard of oil burning white can somebody explain why???

Top Speed

If it is smoking white at start up, you may have a slight head gasket leak, that is leaking while the car is sitting. Looks like a compression and leakdown test is in order.

GSE980

yah its leaking a little in the corner of the block but not bad it stops after the car is warm i think the studs might need tightened.