turbo d15 blown
I agree that building a low-comp car out of stock parts is lame, but let me explain myself a bit:
I didnt put the Y7 block in because I was paranoid and wanted to shoot for 8.4:1. I was at the junyard and they had a Y8 and a Y7, both under 20k miles. They wanted 700 for the Y8 (because it said VTEC on top I guess) and 250 for the Y7, the choice was obvious at that point.
So I get the Y7 home and pop the head off to put my Z6 head on and I was like holy **** these pistons are more dished than my Talon!
So I made some semi-scientific measurements and plugged them into the D-Series Compression Calculator webpage and it said 8.45:1 ... I have no illusions of safety, because all in all some rods thinner than my index finger are still inside.
---
Fast Forward to now, this car is a total pooch out of the hole. The Y7 is just limping me along until my B18C1 is finished being built. I feel confident it can last a couple months on 14psi, and I will make it do so. It would be 14psi now except that my WG spring is 7.5psi, and I don't feel comfortable going double over on it... even though I know people do it.
Boost control is one thing I AM paranoid about.
I didnt put the Y7 block in because I was paranoid and wanted to shoot for 8.4:1. I was at the junyard and they had a Y8 and a Y7, both under 20k miles. They wanted 700 for the Y8 (because it said VTEC on top I guess) and 250 for the Y7, the choice was obvious at that point.
So I get the Y7 home and pop the head off to put my Z6 head on and I was like holy **** these pistons are more dished than my Talon!
So I made some semi-scientific measurements and plugged them into the D-Series Compression Calculator webpage and it said 8.45:1 ... I have no illusions of safety, because all in all some rods thinner than my index finger are still inside.
---
Fast Forward to now, this car is a total pooch out of the hole. The Y7 is just limping me along until my B18C1 is finished being built. I feel confident it can last a couple months on 14psi, and I will make it do so. It would be 14psi now except that my WG spring is 7.5psi, and I don't feel comfortable going double over on it... even though I know people do it.
Boost control is one thing I AM paranoid about.
I wasn't criticising you, Andrew, I have a number of less than ideal compromises on my car(s). I just wanted to state that it wouldn't be worth going out of the way to make the effort as it wouldn't acheive anything better than stock... in your case, you haven't made anything structurally worse or lost anything except some bottom end before you hit boost. Who really cares? I have no use for that off boost **** anyway
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1) the power level that the rods will support, anything over 200 whp shortens the engine life dramatically.
2) detonation, which kills anything - ring lands, rods, cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is pretty true,
basically if you're tuned PROPERLY,
you can push it up to 200whp(or around there) but after that it gets dangerous.
PSI/Boostpressure is kind of irrelevant if you have those 2 things in mind.
its more what the PSI produces than the psi itself.
1) the power level that the rods will support, anything over 200 whp shortens the engine life dramatically.
2) detonation, which kills anything - ring lands, rods, cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is pretty true,
basically if you're tuned PROPERLY,
you can push it up to 200whp(or around there) but after that it gets dangerous.
PSI/Boostpressure is kind of irrelevant if you have those 2 things in mind.
its more what the PSI produces than the psi itself.
Yup, X pressure in the intake manifold has little to do with cylinder filling and mean combustion pressures between high CR and low CR setups, all else being more or less equal.
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