turbo d15 blown
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turbo d15 blown
well that was short live lasted about a week. just blew it today the rod on cylinder #2 just flew off the block and i could see it through my rear view mirror once i ran over it. i think it was either a boost creep, cause i felt like an instant additional boost then the motor blew, also when i looked under the hood looks like the dammm vacum that was connected to the FPR and the wastegate actually came out, anyone know if this might be the cause or boost creep. well it was fun while it lasted 7psi on this little *** motor felt like my friends built b20/vtec all motor.
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Re: turbo d15 blown (hotintegranights)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hotintegranights »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when i looked under the hood looks like the dammm vacum that was connected to the FPR and the wastegate actually came out, anyone know if this might be the cause or boost creep.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, that would DEFINITELY be your problem there. If the vacuum hose going to the wastegate gets disconnected, it's not going to see ANY boost at all...resulting in a closed wastegate to boost to the turbo's limits. The poor guy must of hung in there with all he had
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, that would DEFINITELY be your problem there. If the vacuum hose going to the wastegate gets disconnected, it's not going to see ANY boost at all...resulting in a closed wastegate to boost to the turbo's limits. The poor guy must of hung in there with all he had
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Re: turbo d15 blown (sporkcrx)
**** so that was def the problem ******* vacum hoses, dammm so the wastegate went to full boost then huhprobably 17lbs , i just intalled that new wastegate today too,the one the turbo came with had the actuator spring stuck so it wont boost past 4lbs no matter what. guess i should have stayed with that and not have gotten greedy.
#4
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Re: turbo d15 blown (hotintegranights)
aahhh probly shoulda just made sure ur hoses were secure..
makes me take note though,
I definetely make sure I get everything secure on my setup
makes me take note though,
I definetely make sure I get everything secure on my setup
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Re: turbo d15 blown (Tad)
could you have put hondabond, or perhaps even light strenght loctite in the end of the vacuum hoses wehre they attatch to the T's and the wastegate to prevent them from coming off?
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Re: turbo d15 blown (blackeg)
im such and idiot though, i had zip ties on the bov vacum hoses and on the fuel reg. but i dint have one on the boost controller vacum or wastegate ,
what do you guys think should i put this d16y6 motor i have laying around or should i just wait a month and get a ls setup?
what do you guys think should i put this d16y6 motor i have laying around or should i just wait a month and get a ls setup?
#7
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Re: turbo d15 blown (hotintegranights)
well you'd have to buy all new turbo sh*t if you got the ls,
but everything should work with the y8, and it would be quite quicker than the b7 was.
should be able to take alittle more pounding too(stronger rods).
but uhhh.. yeah make sure you clamp down all your hoses this time
but everything should work with the y8, and it would be quite quicker than the b7 was.
should be able to take alittle more pounding too(stronger rods).
but uhhh.. yeah make sure you clamp down all your hoses this time
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Re: turbo d15 blown (Tad)
yeah i will
i think im gonna drop the single vtec in there, i cant wait a month i miss boost already dammmnn that **** is addictive .
i think im gonna drop the single vtec in there, i cant wait a month i miss boost already dammmnn that **** is addictive .
#9
Re: turbo d15 blown (Tad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aahhh probly shoulda just made sure ur hoses were secure..
makes me take note though,
I definetely make sure I get everything secure on my setup </TD></TR></TABLE>
no ****
me too
zip ties are going to own me
makes me take note though,
I definetely make sure I get everything secure on my setup </TD></TR></TABLE>
no ****
me too
zip ties are going to own me
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Re: turbo d15 blown (USDM 4G VTEC)
well just went and got a big pack of 100 small and big zip ties. thinking 2 on each vacum just to make sure.
you know now that i think about it people dont even put that on their list when it comes to a turbo project,now that this happen to me i think people should learn from my mistakes and make sure it dont happen to you.
you know now that i think about it people dont even put that on their list when it comes to a turbo project,now that this happen to me i think people should learn from my mistakes and make sure it dont happen to you.
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Re: turbo d15 blown (hotintegranights)
the little things are what will get you man, at least it was only a stock d15
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Re: turbo d15 blown (Chpt1onBOOST [DMV])
D16 bottom end is stouter than the D15, and the head flows better. It'll be more powerful, and more reliable, than the D15.
#13
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Re: turbo d15 blown (J. Davis)
I blew my D15 in a week too.. literally.
I went with a Y7 shortblock because of its deep dished pistons. With my Z6 head and thick cometic gasket, I'm sitting in thr 8.4:1 CR area. I'm currently running 10psi on it, and plan to up it to 14-15 with no worries. Just waiting for a new spring for my TiAL
A nice piece of insurance when dealing with all around small D series rods.
I went with a Y7 shortblock because of its deep dished pistons. With my Z6 head and thick cometic gasket, I'm sitting in thr 8.4:1 CR area. I'm currently running 10psi on it, and plan to up it to 14-15 with no worries. Just waiting for a new spring for my TiAL
A nice piece of insurance when dealing with all around small D series rods.
#14
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Re: turbo d15 blown (GimpyAccord)
I wouldn't reccomend you running 14-15 psi on a D16 stock block. If the rods don't go(which I'm sure they will) then the cylinder walls will defineatly!!
I think you should stay at 10 psi. I do realize you said you're around 8.4:1, but a low compression ratio doesn't strengthen the rods or walls. It does allow you to run more boost without fear of detenation on a block that is equipped for more boost and it allows you to get away with a lower octane grade of fuel. What engine management are you using?
I think you should stay at 10 psi. I do realize you said you're around 8.4:1, but a low compression ratio doesn't strengthen the rods or walls. It does allow you to run more boost without fear of detenation on a block that is equipped for more boost and it allows you to get away with a lower octane grade of fuel. What engine management are you using?
#17
Re: (SohcTurboEG)
Yea, the sleeves are not that weak, ring lands or rods will go long before the sleeves. Another thing you need to keep in mind is he will need to run more boost just to make the same power, 14-15 psi may be very comparable power levels at 8.4:1 compared to stock compression levels at 10 psi. Boost level is not the limiting factor the horsepower level is.
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Re: (notfastenough)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SohcTurboEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To whom are you asking this question sir?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was asking you why. Hopefully you can enlighten me.
omahaturbocivic was going at what I was going for.
I was asking you why. Hopefully you can enlighten me.
omahaturbocivic was going at what I was going for.
#19
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Re: (notfastenough)
Well, I'm 99.9% sure his rods will go at 14-15 psi. If for some strange reason they didn't then the walls would surely crack. Boost is Boost, having a compression ratio of 8.4:1 doesn't mean the rods can now take 14 psi. Power isn't a determining factor either. His engine management will be the determing factor on the power he makes.....AFC hack vs. hondata S200 or better vs. FMU and check valves..see my point, Let's take 3 D16Z6's all stock and run each with one of the above mentioned managements. All will run 10 psi intercooled with a T25 and 440cc inj's. The hondata could make upwards of 250 whp tuned and have a wicked powerband, The Hack could get upwards of 200whp tuned, the FMU will more than likely not see more than 185whp. The 250whp Hondata is defineatly the most powerful and properly tuned one, yet while it's making gobbs more power at the same PSI as the others it is more than likely less strained because of the fuel and air mixture and timing. Now to make 250 whp on any of the other set-ups boost will need to be raise accordingly and lowering the compression ratio to do so would be smart to allow more boost to be ran, but not smart on a stock block, because boost is boost. You cannot take away the effect 14 psi has on your stock rods by lowering your compression ratio. If I had a D16Z6 with a 7.5:1 ratio I cannot go and run 20 psi on my stock rods,pistons and walls.
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Re: (SohcTurboEG)
See, that's where I would disagree. Boost is not boost imo. Horsepower is horsepower. Torque is torque. RPM's are RPM's. "Stock block safe to 10psi < "Stock block safe to 230 hp"
To the original poster: Drop that sohc vtec in there. Keep boostin it man!!
To the original poster: Drop that sohc vtec in there. Keep boostin it man!!
#21
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Re: (notfastenough)
Then I would disagree with you, one example of a 260 whp d16 with hondata stcok block 12 psi: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=821860&page=1
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Re: (SohcTurboEG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SohcTurboEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I'm 99.9% sure his rods will go at 14-15 psi. If for some strange reason they didn't then the walls would surely crack. Boost is Boost, having a compression ratio of 8.4:1 doesn't mean the rods can now take 14 psi. Power isn't a determining factor either. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You, sir, are completely and totally wrong.
Cylinder pressures and output increase as CR increases... or decrease as CR decreases. It takes a bit of boost to make up for a soggy 8.4:1 CR over stock 9.5+:1 CRs, before they have the same power output... and even then the low CR combustion chamber is not as prone to the cylinder pressure spike that occurs right before detonation threshold - the exact forces that split cylinder walls and break rods.
A D16 bottom end is limited by two things, and two things only, for a stock block turbo setup:
1) the power level that the rods will support, anything over 200 whp shortens the engine life dramatically.
2) detonation, which kills anything - ring lands, rods, cylinder walls.
You, sir, are completely and totally wrong.
Cylinder pressures and output increase as CR increases... or decrease as CR decreases. It takes a bit of boost to make up for a soggy 8.4:1 CR over stock 9.5+:1 CRs, before they have the same power output... and even then the low CR combustion chamber is not as prone to the cylinder pressure spike that occurs right before detonation threshold - the exact forces that split cylinder walls and break rods.
A D16 bottom end is limited by two things, and two things only, for a stock block turbo setup:
1) the power level that the rods will support, anything over 200 whp shortens the engine life dramatically.
2) detonation, which kills anything - ring lands, rods, cylinder walls.
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Re: (notfastenough)
i think 14 psi is a little too much for the stock rods to handle,my rods probably flew off the block at around that same psi.
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Re: (hotintegranights)
I run 14 psi for short stints on a stock D16Z6. The tuning is very good, and the car scoots along pretty well. The AVC-R is set for 6 psi (wastegate) and ramps up to 10 psi in third for daily driving. 14 psi is the scramble boost setting. Actually, the car isn't mine, it belongs to a 19 y/old kid... you can guess how it's driven when it's not on loan to me to do OBD1 code testing and to tune it as the setup changes.
Losing almost 2 points of CR, I doubt you'd make as much power at 14 psi as the stock D16Z6 does at 10. I have no figures to back that up at hand, but if you search this forum for dyno charts - or importbuilder's site which is covered up with them - you will see exactly the difference in power output I am talking about. You lose thermal efficiency with lower CR, and have to make that back up with more boost... a 4 psi or 16% increase in "ambient" pressure isn't going to provide enough cylinder filling to offset a 20% loss in compression ratio of what you do have in the cylinder - as well as the increased cylinder filling and thermal efficiency associated with higher CR.
Frankly, I wouldn't go to the effort of building a low CR engine out of stock parts. While the power:detonation threshold is lower with high CR engines, you won't even approach that limit with a stock bottom end, or most built ones. Honda combustion chambers are designed that well.
Losing almost 2 points of CR, I doubt you'd make as much power at 14 psi as the stock D16Z6 does at 10. I have no figures to back that up at hand, but if you search this forum for dyno charts - or importbuilder's site which is covered up with them - you will see exactly the difference in power output I am talking about. You lose thermal efficiency with lower CR, and have to make that back up with more boost... a 4 psi or 16% increase in "ambient" pressure isn't going to provide enough cylinder filling to offset a 20% loss in compression ratio of what you do have in the cylinder - as well as the increased cylinder filling and thermal efficiency associated with higher CR.
Frankly, I wouldn't go to the effort of building a low CR engine out of stock parts. While the power:detonation threshold is lower with high CR engines, you won't even approach that limit with a stock bottom end, or most built ones. Honda combustion chambers are designed that well.