My god, a new member even understands what we are trying to do.

You sir are rare among new me members, I vote you newbie of the year as well as that post for post of Tue year lol



And that nonsense you showed us photos of is ****, totally worthless unmatched parts


While the straight super 60 T3 is a great turbo, you need the .63 turbine housing.... given the stage 1 wheel, the 48 just chokes....

I would base my build around that turbo, using a 3" downpipe and exhaust (they can be whisper quiet), a decent cast manifold, TiAL 38mm wastegate, a quality intercooler, possibly Garrett or PWR, maybe even treadstone.... but stay away from the eBay cores, they suck hard every way you look at them. I would use 3"-2.25" hot side piping and 2.5" cold side, also a decent blow off valve, no eBay ones, they leak or just don't work

And please don't get an ssqv, everyone around here has them as them and they sound so ******* annoying, Greddy the s or rs maybe even a type r. Or the old school HKS type 1 racing valves

You'll also need some engine management... walbro 255 drop in pump, set of DSM 450s and a resistor box, and a chipped p28 as well as a wideband and you're pretty much there minus the little things.

I was going to base my first b16 turbo build around the straight 60 trim t3, it's a fun street turbo. Not as efficient as newer units but you can make 300hp with it, a gt2860r shares the same compressor wheel but a more advanced turbine side, so you keep the power level but have a better powerband

 

I paired a message with the image saying its an example of reliable parts good for the small power he asked (40 whp) and to prety much get the image of what he needs.I must fkd up and message never came up...

 

The problem that it is NOT an example of what he needs. If he followed your example he'd be pretty pissed off. For instance; try and mount an RFL style BOV on piping with a Greddy flange.

 

Yeah it requires a 30$ adapter.But anyway i got what youre trying to say,
Now on the .48 housing here is a dyno of an Integra LS with the same turbo.
At 8.5 psi


"The turbo is very fun to drive, it has a awesome low end/midrange response from the turbo. The owner is coming back very shortly with a stiffer wastegate spring, boost controller and 20psi. I am anticipating 275-280 ft-lbs."

I tried to make a list of cheap yet reliable stuff he would need plus some extra parts.

 

WOW that is a pathetic looking dyno chart, you see how at just after 5000 rpm the power just falls off.

Now imagine trying to carry that power to 8000 rpm on a vtec motor.

He expects to see 270 at 20 psi?? LOL yeah 270 at 4500 rpm, and 160 at 7000 rpm, that is HORRIBLE! That .48 is no good for a vtec motor or any dual cam honestly, its fine for a sub 200 whp sohc, but thats about it.

 

Haha... 140 whp. Not hardly
Its not stock for sure. I want a smaller fast spool turbo kit. Period!
If i want 40-50whp then thats my choice. Lag sucks as*. I did have a 1.8t and swapped out the ko3s for a atp eliminator with apr full program with vtune. Had all the goodies. Made 235whp and 227twq
No lag. Fast and strong. 5 years of playing with it. Let it go 4fr years ago. Anyways
Thanks for the input fellas. Forgot that was on 104 octane mode

 

You need a slightly bigger budget

For less than $2500 you will have to piece together a kit on your own, sacrificing quality parts that are matched.

A good reliable kit that has a small turbo and will have zero lag, and net a 60-80 whp gain, putting you somewhere around 200 whp would be this:

http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gostkit.html

The kit is complete, and is $2,000

But you still need to tune it, so you have to add the costs associated with that.

Chipped ecu- $150
obd2 to obd1 jumper $50
Injectors $200 for osidetigers, or about $100 for used dsm 450's
fuel pump $85
and a tune $400

Putting your budget around $2800 thats pretty close to your goal of $2500

 

And then you need the following if you don't have them already:

Clutch
Brakes
Suspension
Security(unless you don't mind your car being stolen)
Gauges(optional but a good investment)

 

^^^^^ An alarm has nothing to do with a turbo setup.
The only gauge you HAVE to have is a boost gauge
suspension and brakes have nothing to do with a turbo set up
A good clutch is a good idea, but if the one you have (stock or not) is in good shape it should work for a while, when it starts slipping you upgrade.

 

Where did I say an alarm? Security means more than just alarms. Your reading comprehension sucks. You don't HAVE to have a boost gauge. The setup will work fine without one. Driving with poor brakes and suspension is stupid, stock suspensions were designed with the stock power in mind. A stock clutch will only be good for so long. I should have been a bit more careful with my wording. However, anyone who has decent brain capacity knows that everything I posted in my list shouldn't be neglected.

 

Not sure what security measures you take beyond an alarm? What a CLUB on the steering wheel? a lojack device? ANYWAY...

brake and suspension upgrades are nice on any car that is driven hard, but just because you have a turbo, (in his case, will be a low 200 whp car) does not mean he is required to upgrade them, trust me the car will still drive down the road and stop.

The clutch is as stated, it is a good upgrade with boost, but I personally have a 210 whp boosted civic right now that has an oem clutch in it and after 5k miles it is still working fine, it will slip eventually, and it will get upgraded, but in the mean time it works well. You do realize lots of people use oem style clutchs on set ups below 250 whp all the time right?

Gauges are optional, but at least with a boost gauge you can see if you have a wastegate failure and shut it down before you destroy the motor, and they cost $50, worth it.

I am aware that the things you listed are all nice things to have with a boosted car, but they are not REQUIRED if your on a cheap budget like this guy is, he can upgrade things as he can afford them.

 

Guess we've never heard of a killswitch..

 

really? nope never heard of a killswitch.... these threads get so off topic its rediculous... drives me up a wall....

This thread was about the op wanting a good reliable turbo set up for his budget, so those are the issues I addressed...

Everything else in the last few posts is off topic, and has nothing to do with this thread...

So a kill switch is now needed along with upgraded braded brakes and suspension in order to go boost..WOW... I guess the 999,999 people who dont have this stuff are doing it all wrong /

 

You seem to be missing the point that is being made. If you want to keep the vehicle you take steps. If you want to drive safely you take steps. Can you build a motor on wheels? Sure but many people will think it's pretty dumb.

 

$2500? Buy kpro w cam gear. piece your own kit together. upgrade injectors fuel pump and clutch. then learn how to tune yourself and use left over money on gauges, or to replace stuff that doesnt go your way. and sell your stock parts for extra cash

 

 

Thanks for all the input. I will go the route that best suits high rev VTEC.