blufke

I was wondering what are some good ways to make space for a turbo/mani/dp/etc in a 4th gen or crx with a b16a/b18b swap. would a maxrev manifold and small t3/t4(.48/.50)/downpipe fit without having to get a new radiator/slim fan? what are the tough areas to deal with when turboing these to cars?(im used to 5th gens)

What charge piping and front mount problems are there?(space,cutting,etc.)

Will dsm 450s bolt up?(what do i need if they dont?)

anyone know of any b16/b18 swapped crx/4th gen hatches for sale?

i did try searching but mostly brings up 5th gen stuff. if you know some threads post the links, thanks.

91CivicSi

A good way to free up space is to get an aftermarket crossmember. Z10 and Jimfab both make nice products. Another way to make space is to get a half-radiator. You can pretty much count on getting rid of the stock fan. You can get a generic pusher fan at Pepboys or any parts store for around $60.

I'm not sure about the Maxrev setup but I believe you can use the RevHard AC manifold, the Drag manifold, and I know you can use the Greddy manifold without changing radiators. Space is the biggest problem when turbo charging these cars. It's well worth it though.

Space comes into play once again for charge piping. To fit a good sized FMIC youl'll need to cut or get rid of the front bumper support. Check out this thread for pics of my 18G install in my 91 HB. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=332275

DSM 450s bolt in, yes. I would sell my hatch for the <U>RIGHT</U> price.

Good luck with your project.

blufke

thanks man, anyone know about the maxrev and other Qs?


[Modified by blufke, 6:41 PM 1/18/2003]

Joseph Davis

450cc's don't quite bolt in. You have to modify the lower injector to manifold seals and reshim the fuel rail.

It's not hard or anything - mount the OEM seal on a Dremel w/ sandpaper drum, and at low speed spin the *outside* of the seal against some sandpaper/concrete until it is the right thickness. If you try to grind on the insides... well... everyone I've seen do that fubars them.

A trip to Homeboy Depot will get you a handful of 1/4" washers to shim the fuel rail with. Throw away the stock phenolic spacers and use 3 of the slimmer washers per stud - thickness on them varies, so sort through them.

blufke

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